cowie165

Hi Arbess. The bolt under the lever is just to take up the slack in the handbrake. It set it correctly, you'll need to remove the rear wheels and adjust the brake shoes there. Here's an excerpt from the service manual. If I can help clarify the service manual, please let me know.

Mine did too but it was due to the rev limiter.

Mate I had bit of a sticky beak at your GTR when it was waiting in line - all your odometer numbers line up nicely leading me to believe it is a genuine 76,000km? Nice I'm *know* my odometer is a genuine 74,000km on the plus side I know for sure the boost restrictor is still in. Comforting.

I've had great success with Meguiars SuperShine. It's for vinyl and rubber and is the first Meguiars product I've ever bought. Needless to say, when it turned my white window trims black and brought out the shine on my dash with the greasy Armourall touch I decided I shall definitely look at Meguiars in future. Great product. It's a red bottle if you go looking.

I'm in bit of a rush this morning so I'll find references later tonight - Either the NSW Sale of Goods Act or the Trade Practices Act has consumer protections that are applicable in this case. Sellers are required by law to sell goods that are of 'merchantable quality' and fit for sale. The section talks about implied warranties. It's like if you went to Harvey Norman, bought a DVD player that didn't have a warranty, took it home and it didn't work. You still are legally entitled to a working DVD for the first time you use it, if that makes sense. Anyway, have to go or I'll be late for work.

With so many coming and me being such an SAU event n00b, I'd need everyone to wear nametags with the online nick printed on them "Hi, my name is cowie165"

Thanks newkleer. After searching through eBay, it seems the goin rate for 568's is in the range $100 to $170 with a mean around $130 nowdays. Are there any other models in the same price bracket worth looking at? I'm a PDA n00b and don't really know what would be suitable for what you have in mind. Thanks

Leech it is probably your fan belt. You can check each of them by testing the tension (with yer finger) and sussing out which one is overtight or loose. If that doesn't really help, try dropping a drop of water or washing up detergent on the belt. The squeeling will go away when you drop the water/WD40/whatever on there and you will have identified which one is the trouble maker. Adjusting tension is terribly difficult, just a little fiddly. I DIY'd my fan belt on RB26 and now enjoy squeal free engine start-up! Hope it helps. If you decide to keep your hands clean then a mechanic better not charge more than 0.5 (0.75 max) hours labour to fix the problem. ...can't find the edit button... Just reread your post and noted you've already tested the tension with your finger. :oops:

Hi Chris How do you know if you need to replace them? I have a 'classic ' GTR and it drives nicely but would like to know what to look out for. Thanks!

Hi I have been using SS595s on an R32 GTR for around 6,000km and have found them to provide grip well above my ability. What I mean is that in 2nd gear around a tight hill bend they may squeak just a little but for every other corner I have driven as fast as comfortable and they haven't let me down. I drive up and down a 3km windy mountain stretch each day. As far as wet performance goes, they perform almost as well as in the dry, which is to be expected, however I don't push things in the wet too often so can't really offer any terribly constructive. Suffice to say they feel steady at highway speeds. When the car finally makes it onto a skid pan, I'll have more to say! Yes they are cheap tyres but until they're the reason I can't take a corner any faster, then I'll buy something more expensive (which may or may not do the job). Until then, I need to drive better! SS595s were my second choice - originally tried to buy K104s but there were major delays caused by the Australian importer (or distributor). Cheers! Mark

For what it's worth, my temp goes to 90'C (lowest measurement is 70'C iirc) and the pressure jumps to 4 then settles on 3(ish). I would have expected it to move more, just like you did.

Same combination as leech. I've found the same thing as FAT32. I fitted the pads and rotors myself and bed them as per Racebrakes instructions. Used CRC Anti-Squeal paste on the shims. Not a sound for about 2,000km and now I have the low-speed/moderate braking noise. After applying the anchors quite hard going around bends the noise subsides for the next week or two. Could the RB74s glaze the disc and need strong braking to remove the glaze? Just a thought.

:lol: Gordo you must be one sweaty individual Thanks for the info, I'm still deciding if I can be bothered to attempt fault finding or just pay the auto elec to do it. Might be the solenoid, might be the clutch, and simpler yet it could just be a gas leak. Meh. And to think the car is lugging all that weight around needlessly! I don't use ABS and the aircon is stuffed - my traffic light drag times are suffering

Me too. All summer and it's a 40min drive to and from work. Yuk. I'm keen to hear how you go, cheers!

Hi Andrew The O2 sensors are actually fitted to the dump pipes and the sensor attached near the catalytic converter is actually an exhaust temp sensor. It doesn't seem to be terribly useful though as it only indicates "HOT" (indicated by red dash light like the e-brake) or "OK" (no light). A lot of guys cut it off or a little tidier way would be to just tuck it into the chassis rail and tape it in. Alternatively, you could tap a thread into your test pipe and refit the sensor?

Don't mean to sound like a knob but page 1 of the Australian Specification.pdf states that there were 50 units built 5/91 and another 50 built 8/91. edit: It also makes no mention of a twin-plate clutch being fitted to Aus spec cars.

It's a stupid idea of TT to even bring it up. It didn't look like an Australian production and there are scores of drift dvds available. Perhaps they should ban initial d? Perhaps they should ban Chuck Norris because it encourages roundhouse kicks? Perhaps they should ban themselves because they are a derisive attitude and manipulative reporting makes the program a joke. Did you see the preview for the following nights show - "Us vs. Them - Foreign enclaves on Australian soil". Great topic to bring up guys.

Black32 did you end up sorting this aircon issue?

Hi Justin For what it's worth, if stuff falls inside the rear quarter panel via the jack space or ATTESSA reservoir, it's kinda a one way trip.

Same symptoms. Checked all fuses and when I press A/C there is no change in engine rpm. Will report back if the auto elec finds anything. What happened when you tested pin 9 and 46? Any change in voltage? Ceffys don't have a consult port do they?

Same. 89 model.

That's a very good price. You can DIY both sides in just over an hour.

Hi mate I have recently overhauled my calipers and there isn't much to go wrong in them - what I mean is the chances of having stuffed calipers are pretty slim. Have you tried calling a brake specialist? They *may* be able to manufacture something or modify an exisiting shim cheaper than buying a replacement set of calipers? Perhaps call JustJap or JMS or any other wrecker? If you ZILLA01 is an R32, then the R33 GTS25t shims should fit. Hope it helps