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Everything posted by cowie165
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Thanks mate. Looks like I need to update my Japanese text support. Cheers.
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Hi Davo, Nissan. $700ish retail. Doesn't include lower lip.
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n00b of the day question please: What is the difference between long and short motor? Is a short motor just the block and the head? If you saw a long motor for sale what would expect to be buying? Includes loom/airbox/etc.?
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It may be a good idea to disconnect the brakes and DIY overhaul the calipers. They would probably appreciate the freshen up and you can DIY for under $150 rather than pay $500 for a workshop to do it. Plus it makes painting the calipers a whole lot easier! Bleeding takes about ten minutes to do it once, do it right. I've found that the 'one-man bleeders' are useless and that it takes two of you to do a proper job first go. Much faster too.
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Kris what program did you use to create that attachment?
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Can You Call A R33 Or R43 Gtr A Godzilla?
cowie165 replied to mazgtr's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Ah, found it. The middle column reads: "July 1989. The cover of Wheels carried the GT-R. "Nissan's new Godzilla on wheels..." ran the coverlines. It was a name so apt that it stuck. Our opening news pages reported that the Japanese already had a name for the car. Obakemono, the monster. From there it was an easy jump to the word that for English speakers conjures a particularly Japanese monster." @ scathing -
Can You Call A R33 Or R43 Gtr A Godzilla?
cowie165 replied to mazgtr's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I vaguely remember reading here that the Japanese referred to them as obakemono. I'll see if I can find the mag article .pdf -
My wife and I wrote off a 2002 Subaru Liberty last October. NRMA will only write off when the repair bill is more than $500 under the agreed value, ie. if they can save at least $500 then they'll repair it. That info is from the NRMA preferred repairer that painted my GTR and also wrote-off the Liberty. He also said most other companies do use the 50% rule, as bizarre as it sounds. The quote for repair also depends a lot on how badly the panel shop wants the work! If they are busy you are more likely to have it deemed a total loss. Hope it works out for you dude. Six months later we are still trying to get money from the NRMA and are thousands out of pocket - the guy that caused it? - 3 points and $220 fine. Hurrah for justice.
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SYC-06T spotted on the M4 tonight. Late model R32. I love KH2 R32s. I would have tooted to say hi but my old Mazda may have caused confusion
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You're welcome. May I ask why you're ditching the original fan? Broken?
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There are a few threads around but the consensus seems to be anywhere from: Stock components, just motor out, renew busted parts, motor in = $4,000 A/m pistons, rods, new crank, head work, valves + guides, new cams, blah, oil pump, machining, etc. = up to $10,000
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Kinda a hard question Marcus but the external dimesions are close to: 670 x 420 x 50 h x w x d Hope it helps but like I said it's a bugger of a question to give you the accurate answer I think you're after.
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Funny you mention that. I bought a dd in October last year and I took a trip to see a low km 'immaculate' V6. Turned out to be a four cylinder car that was dented, scratched and the interior was covered in the owner's dirty washing, chocolate wrappers and other junk strewn throughout! Immaculate my ar$e! It's amazing what people do to entice a sale...
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Thanks Mark. Sorry about the slow reply, been busy after work cleaning and refitting that exhaust! You should have seen how much gunk and gasket bits were left. I cant believe I didn't clean it more thoroughly first time around. I ended up using a wire brush mounted in my cordless drill and that did the trick. Test drive <4,000rpm last night seem ok, I'm taking it to work in 15mins so we'll see how we go... Funny you mention colour, I've always preferred silver if I had found one when I was looking! For RRP's try nengun or greenline but even better would be to email Zac at Slidewize and use Zac to buy an exhaust through Yahoo Japan. If you ship it via container it isn't too expensive in postage and they usually sell for cheap or at least competitive prices. That's where I'd go if I had to replace an exhaust. As far as the Hitech in the picture: I purchased it from another SAU member for $500 and he advertised that he paid $2200 new. My only other advice is to try and make it out to an SAU cruise so that you can hear a few different exhausts and see what you like the sound of, rather than take a guess or be forced to rely upon a retailers opinion. Cheers!
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I paid $30 for a pair in excellent condition. Keep in mind there are lots of different GT badges. R33 are different from R32 which are again different from S15. There are also differences in R32 badges. Some had no colour (just silver), I think it was GTS and GTS4 had silver+blue and GTSt and GTR had silver+maroon. Just remember to ask for pics
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Thanks manwhor3. After having tried not using sealant and putting up with that awful sound, I'm happier to seal it and endure the pain of taking much later down the track. That said, I'll make sure I take a closer look at the flanges when I pull it off and check they are all flush. Ah, my mistake with the paper gaskets, thought I saw them at the auto shop. I'll try again and we'll see what we see! Thanks for posting, all great points to read.
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Here's a few pics whilst we're here. Before: Why I took it off (reason 1): Why I took it off (reason 2): Rusted Trust v. Used Hitech Yes, the pink car is my daily driver and the tools are from SuperCheapAuto and job done. Or so I thought.
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From the album: cowie165's Gallery
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From the album: cowie165's Gallery
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From the album: cowie165's Gallery
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From the album: cowie165's Gallery
Trust v. Hitech -
From the album: cowie165's Gallery
ex-Japan -
I think you'd be happiest with a car that has been in Australia the longest. Mechanical aspects aside, ye olde R32's are likely to have a few niggling things requiring rectification. Things like the clock not working, or a few dash lights out, and things like that. Things you'd never tolerate in buying an R34 like yours. And 99% of the time you can work out if a seller looked after their car within 5 minutes of meeting them. If you bought a car that has already been rebuilt and had some maintenance dollars thrown at it, you could barely go wrong. GTR's require pads just like any other Skyline, same with oil changes etc. I don't believe in the myth that GTR=expensive, I think it's R32=expensive (due age). Only an opinion.
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R34 Gtr V Spec Ll 2001 Model, What Diagnostic
cowie165 replied to caz's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I'm such a dumbass. It's lather, rinse, repeat.