cowie165

The outer shims on my rears have started to corrode. Any ideas on price guys? It's nothing too bad, only 2mm in from the edge, at worst. siksII, Dave is right on the money. They should be full length. That said, I've read about guys not using the shims at all? Apparently having them in reduces brake squeal? I'm not after the 10/10ths performance or whatever reason they take them out for so I'll keep mine in!

As an aside, there is a wine red R32 that occasionally pops up on Yahoo. It is advertised at Y4,000,000 or so. It has around 3,000km on it! The 'suicide seat' has only been used twice. BNR34's often sell for less than that - horses for courses?

Send a PM to 'Duncan' and see if he has more ATTESSA controllers for sale. And if you're after help, cut the sms talk dude. There is no saving in typing 'no' instead of 'know'. It just makes it hard to read and pisses people off. Also try breaking your post up into bite size chunks commonly known as sentences. Cheers.

Thumbs up to SAUers for saving someone from being ripped off by a scumbag! Go team.

What noise does it make? How can you tell if it's shagged?

Cheers Neil. Managed to fumble my way through without but will keep it in mind in future.

If you change your mind about posting, and will put up a price, let me know. Cheers.

There is a Z32/HCR33 comparo in a HPI a while back. I could prob scan it if anyone is interested. R33 GTSt is HCR33? *shrugs* meh. Anyways, the article is around somewhere.

Michael try http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...&category=other for the specific page for those lights.

Michael the indicators are made by D-Speed. Paul bought them privately but if you're after a new pair go to greenline. They are around the $500 mark (pair). Mark

by the way, are your rear lights tinted or is it just the photo?

Paul here are two of my favourite GTR pics. Those rims look brilliant on two.06l, such a great looking car.

Jonathan you can have my recently removed set of Hitachi's to try if you want? They have plenty of meat left. Only reason I changed them is to fit some RB74's I found. Changing pads is a piece of cake too if you're concerned. edit: typo

Well the original VIN will have BNR32- as the first few letters if it is a real GTR. ps: Buy Danny's car. It's worth way more than the asking price and you won't have any problems with it. In my opinion, there is no such thing as an under $20,000 GTR. You'll either pay up front for a nice one or within 12months to fix all the stuff wrong with it. I urge you to revise your budget or look at a GTS4 with RB26 instead. I don't mean to sound like a wanker, but I'd hate for you to be one of those poor dudes that buys his dream car on the cheap but then realises he can't afford to keep it and has to sell it at a loss.

Sorry dude, I'm not sure what a pipe spanner is. Obviously can't get to it with a ring spanner so shifter provided best surface contact.

Thanks Merlin, just walked back upstairs with a big smile on my dial. For future reference, the two brake bracket retaining bolts are 6mm with a 12mm head The flathead screw I could see (and undid ) turned out to be a retaining pin for one of the handbrake shoes. And those undersize, grooved, pitted, corroding rotors are happily going into the bin! Is it worth giving the handbrake shoes a light sand to tidy them up? THey are covered in all sorts of filth. Maybe just a squirt of brakekleen?

THanks Merlin, thanks again Steve. The disc is still tight on the studs. I have applied a fair bit of mallet without success Just to confirm, if the handbrake is released, there is nothing that should be keeping the disc on the studs? Do I need to unscrew anything through the hole behind the rubber bung? I think I'll have to see if I can find some 6mm bolts. Thanks again, I'll give those ideas a try.

From what I've seen, very little difference in price. The brakes are the main thing. Others are the leather steering wheel and gearknob and different front bar. If you search through old threads, funkymonkey (I think) set up a thread with the Type-M options and also one with the R32 options. Actually, a good thread to read is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=72591 It's a few pages long but the info you're after is in there.

I disagree Tommy. Most of em are 'project cars'. That's one of the most common causes of early RB26 failure. Do R33's have similar problems? ie. you get what you pay for? And listen to PHATR32, his advice is sound.

www.nissansilvia.com

The poor quality of pics is due to them being taken on a video camera.

Hi again SAUers. The rear disc won't play the game. I assume the parkbrake pads are inside the disc or something because the sucker won't come off and I can see springs and a flathead screw through the hole under the tiny rubber boot. What is the trick please?? Thanks in advance, nearly done now