cowie165

Skyline model = R32 GT-R Wheel diameter = 18 Inch Wheel width = 9.5 Inch Wheel offset = +20mm Tyre size = 245/40/18 Modifications to fit = None Wheel = KYH Circular

race_snooze is right on the money. Make sure you support the caliper once the bolts are removed - otherwise you may damage the brake line. A light tap with a rubber mallet loosened the fronts but the rears are still stuck on I'm not too sure that every brake place will know the minimum thickness for your rotor - a quick check on here or, better yet, through the workshop manual and you'll have the numbers you need. If you have time, spray the caliper bolts with WD40 the day before and you will probably need a breaker bar for the stickier bolts.

Thanks for the replies guys. The corrosion is on the bore of the piston and the gouges are on the surface that contacts the shim. So, the seal between the piston and the cylinder is all good Cheers Steve! Damn, I didn't realise they were so expensive! It is good to hear the labour cost because it makes me work harder and take more satisfaction from what is a fairly straight forward (albeit slightly challenging and time consuming) job. Rear calipers are off and pistons now out, yeehah. Those boots are very very sad - deteriorated so bad they crumble in your fingers.

Reading through the workshop manual, it states to replace pistons, shims and pad pins if there is evidence of deformation or corrosion. Well, I don't know how, but the top of the 5 pistons I pulled out have gouges in them and most have surface corrosion inside. The pad pins were also pretty messy. Can I get away with a light sand and a polish to remove the corrosion and just ignore the gouges? I can't see the gouges (they look like deep scratches basically)(should take a pic, might do tomorrow) actually hindering the braking effort though? Whether they have imperfections or not, they'll still push nice and hard against the shim. Any thoughts please guys? Basically I'm going to avoid buying new ones from Mr Nissan unless absolutely necessary. Cheers! Mark

Thanks Duncan. I managed to crack the bolts a little while ago - the WD40, a ring spanner and a bit of beefcake managed to do the trick. I like the mallet idea - I ended up using the mallet and a small screwdriver to tap the pistons out that last little bit. I bent the arm on one of my socket set attachments getting the front bolts undone It was the tool that has the drive sliding along the rod. I slipped a piece of water pipe on the end and the extra leverage just bent the damn rod! Sorted it, once again, with more swearing and beefcake. I was more stressed about stripping the head of the bolt.

Frustratingly, page CH-282 didn't end up scanned into the GTR .pdf and I'm stuck trying to remove the rear calipers. There are four bolts on the back of the caliper. The two leading the brake line were fine. There are another two, the main mounting bolts (17mm from memory) and just in a bugger of a spot and you need to get all the force you can onto them. The breaker bar won't fit and the shifter is out of travel. These suckers are on tight. Any suggestions please guys? Other than WD40 a few times? Thanks Mark

I'd sell the car and buy a turbo Bluebird instead. Less hassle. Less expensive.

I'm keen to know too as mine squeaks over potholes.

Just for those guys searching through old posts, like me, the R32 line has a 10mm nut. Using a 10mm spanner I started to strip it. Try using a shifter instead if you're having trouble. The shifter helped me get a much better grip of the nut so there was no chance of it slipping. Cheers.

To consolidate a few posts: SJ6024 is an axle kit 210E0011 is a single caliper kit (just found out the hard way) Not sure about SJ6070 As R32 GTR calipers are apparently the same as R33 GTSt calipers, the part numbers should be the same. @Fiona: If you're still looking for the kits, shoot a pm over and I'll order some from over east, sounds like it's a lot cheaper. That is, if you haven't sorted it already. The wheels are now off the car. The Metalcast paint is waiting to be picked up from the auto shop and I'm hoping they also have a 36mm socket with a 1/2in drive! And a piece of lead pipe to extend my breaker bar! I'll report back on Sunday night with how things went over the weekend.

Hrmmm. Good points. I'm going to bare metal my calipers this weekend and give this paint a try - and I've heard all bad stories about acid/solvent based wheel cleaners... argh

Hi Troy From their website, it is an enamel that you prep the surface with their pressure pack "Adhesion Promoter" for bare metal then paint with just the one type of paint. And yep, I'm pretty sure everyone understands that it is paint and not anodizing. Still looks a treat for old calipers. Mark

Burson's do it. Try the redline website for the full state-by-state list of distributors.

Dude, in as polite as possible voice, those prices are your job to find out. The man has said what needs fixing. It's now up to you (and me) to do the ring around and see what bits cost what - don't wait around for a good deal to fall in your lap, go out and chase it! You know what is broken. Ring a painter and grab a quick quote on replacing a sill. Ask him about painting a door and a fender. Look at the trims that need replacing. See if you can find a Nissan windscreen (because it looks like it has the HUD). Ring a few trucking/shipping companies and see what their backloading prices are like. Add all of that up, plus your time and effort, and see what figure you come up with. THEN you go back to the seller and negotiate their price so that it is worthwhile for you. You could even see if it is worth wrecking. Had it been a 2L, I daresay yes, even just for the engine. Anyway, sorry about the long post, but you've got to do your own homework.

Hi Will. Few quick ones please mate: From squinting at the pics, it looks like a digital dash with the HUD. Is that right? Is the car actually driveable or is the sill damage keep the door from closing? Actually, would you mind PMing over your phone number? Alternatively, I can send my number if you like. Probably faster than lots of q's over the net. Thank you mate. Mark

Actually I'm pretty sure the Aus distributor is called Holts. @nightcrawler: Unfortunately for me my discs are undersize and in REALLY bad shape and I'm pretty sure on of the front pistons has seized

For those guys still looking for Duplicolor Metalcast, the Australian distributor is Hoits/Hoyts (damn forgotten the spelling already) and they are on 1800 021 106. AutoOne stock Duplicolor (the normal range) but can definitely order Metalcast for you. If the storeman gives you a funny look, get them to ring Nationals or ring Hoits themselves on the 1800 number. Cheers!

lol, mine was two days ago!

Thanks for your input Tommy, I feel a lot better cause mine does the same thing. I thought the px gauge stuck on the way home from work as it was reading aboud 1.8kg/cm2 but sorted itself out going up the hill!

Wow Tommy that's a bit cooler than I expected. My gauge hovers around 90'C give or take. That's with 3000km old Mobil1 in it and the oil px sitting around 3 (I forget the units). Old R32 banger though.