cowie165

Property is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. If noone has bought the car at the listed price, why not make an offer?! If they say no, they lose the sale and the car sits there longer. I would submit an offer for the seller/broker to consider/pass on. I don't mean to tell you to suck eggs, but don't bother with the old, "so what's the lowest you can go to" because those questions just piss people off. It's all about offer and counter offer imo.

rincewind: People are hesitant to criticise any company via a public forum such as SAU. Try PMing Cerbera for his story. I didn't have a good experience with Prestige but found Geoff to be a generally helpful and friendly guy. As with anything, there are people that would go back and others that wouldn't. I know that doesn't help you very much but it's pretty tough for me to provide unbiased comment.

Best advice ever. There are a lot of guys that cannot afford their GTRs. The best way would be to look for a car that has been ADR'd, registered, and serviced (btw it's service not servers). Ignore the reading on the odometer. Unless it has service books the reading is worthless. Low k's is a state of mind. Check the driver's bolster, gear knob, pedals, etc. Charlie's advice is great too - have the NRMA inspect the car.

JUN front lip available from www.japanparts.com Look under exterior dressing or something like that I think it is. If only I had the money

Sean I've actually seen a few in the for sale section for $150. Seems to be the going rate. There was one for $100 too, dunno about quality.

Well slap on a "Real Gaijin Drive Utes" sticker, a few more Asahi stickers, a CB antenna or three and off you go roo-shooting R32 style

And Sean some of that painting you've done looks very intricate! Did you freehand or mask? Parts like around "Nissan" and RB26 look very nice!

Hrmmmm. Cheers Ben. Mine has pretty much lost all the paint (bizarre for a *genuine* 70,000km car ) so it'll have to come off, because I'm going to bake the parts to cure the paint. I shall see how I go.... (famous last words....)

Hello mate, As the other guys have already mentioned, buying the car is only half the expense. Seriously. Read that first sentence again. Please. Your wallet will NEVER be the same. Budget for an engine rebuild, plus insurance and a major service. I was naive enough to think that these cars are just like buying an old Corolla - petrol in and go!.... Anyways, the blue GTR seems like a nice car. Remember that Skyline smashes are usually major. My car is http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2310 and has had a front end, a rear corner and probably a drivers side hit too. For your Y990,000, first consider a car like http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m21373449 It's cheaper and probably nicer. If you can find an R32 RAWS then you're in for the same expense with a nicer/newer car at the end. And your Y1,000,000 could also buy http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m21846841 complete with the neat paint and BNR34 wheels. So, please don't rush in. Take your time. Talk to a few guys that have bought old GTR's and ask yourself if you could find another $6,000 for an engine rebuild or rust/accident repair and paint. I'm not a naysayer dude, I LOVE my car, but an informed buyer is a smart buyer. If you know you can afford the car, you won't be pissed off driving it (worrying about expenses). Cheers bud, good luck with your purchase! Mark

Drew was it fairly easy to remove the plenum? Or is that what you were talking about when you said just loosen everything?

*groan*

Brilliant! Thanks Gary

SK would you mind calculating these please: Top ID: 88mm Bottom ID: 76mm Thickness: 12mm # turns: 10.125 Top ID: 98mm Bottom ID: 66mm (yes it's a big difference!) Thickness: 12mm # turns: 7.0 Nismo springs for R32GTR Thanks! Mark

I've heard that one too, but forgot about it. My windows are worth more than my CD collection too! Also check your insurance policy. The contract with Famous states that if the car is parked within 500m of your residential address AND on the street, the car will not be covered by the policy! Interesting fine print...

Whaddaya mean it's an eight-five?? Seriously though, that bites the big one. Poor bloke. Caveat emptor sure but the Trade Practices Act should see him get his money back. It's so hard to comprehend that there are yards out there doing that to people just because they can.

Hi mate Please sing out if you change your mind about freighting.

I'm moving there for good in three weeks, yay. And I'll find you Beer Baron....

Hi Richard, cheers mate. I'm actually pretty happy at the moment. I know the ins and outs of the car now and I'm quite happy in knowing it is now rust-free, straight as an arrow, all blemishes are gone, and has new paint. Now....there is just that RB26 sized question mark.... Some guys spent deniros on big singles and AP calipers, I ended up spending it on bling. If I don't enter in the next SnS I'd be crazy! B) t01-100: I'm not here to make up stories or bag anyone mate. I'll happily share my experience via PM and I understand I must be one of the exceptions otherwise Geoff would have trouble continuing to trade. For reference only, this pic highlights what was clear to the naked eye. It is the end of the driver's side outer sill. As I said before, I don't know whether one party didn't disclose all relevant information or whether one party didn't ask the right questions. Meh, it's done now and there aint no going back! And for Richard, dude once the car is sorted (a week maybe?) I'll post a >56k thread with a few progress shots. Here's one. I'll save the better pics for the thread!

For what it's worth, when I took my car to an autoelec with the headlight problem, he suggested putting in a relay, from the working headlight, to fix it. *shrug*

He is fixing my car for me. Some the sphincter of the universe in Japan forklifted it and crushed just about everything underneath.

Apparently it's either H1 or H3 depending upon the car. From what I've read there doesn't seem to be any reason/correlation between model and bulb. At the risk of stating the obvious, have you swapped bulbs between headlights to check it's not the globe? Cubes' trick seems like the goods, but if it dies you'll lose both headlights. I tried buttondownpsycho's trick and it worked but I was messing around with the headlights and highbeam switches and managed to melt another little pot. Used switches are under $50 from JustJap.