cowie165

Thanks 2GU UP, shall do. /hijack

lol, sorry Dru, I forgot your current car is red also! IOWNU posted pics of [his recently purchased] Ferrari red BNR32 the other week and I was wondering if it had arrived (and died ) already. And regarding your own (unfortunate) rebuild - have you used 'standard' parts or have you gone all with parts designed for high hp work? Just wondering after I read in another thread that a guy rebuilt his RB26 for $2900 (without forged pistons, etc.; no scoring, just lost an exhaust wheel or similar). If you don't mind, may I ask what the rebuild cost (PM if you prefer?). Cheers! Mark

I'm with JiMiH - pics please Dru!

Can you have steering wheels retrimmed? If you've had it done, did it turn out as you hoped? I'm a bit tired of looking at used R32 wheels.

Dude is this the red beast you posted pics on the other week? Say it aint so! And if you were eluding to suing the mechanic you'd have to prove negligence on his part. It'd be an expensive court case which would be really hard to win.

man the res on that citation sucks

Oldie but still funny.

Whole door trims come off. Good news is it'll take less than five minutes per door. There are two screws near the A-pillar, press studs around the bottom and rear, and you'll need to take out the power window controls. There are also a few screws around the interior handle. From memory, the drivers side controls slide rearward and comes out best with a screwdriver with a taped end or something similar that won't damage the trim.

I don't like being cynical but you'll get what you pay for. A genuine 120,000km car would be hard to find for $18,000 on road. Remember that every man and his dog has been looking for good value 89 model R32's for the last two or more years - the chances of finding a straight, rust-free, low km car that doesn't have any major problems are very slim in my opinion.

Thanks for your reply. When I get the car back I'll check for the port. Cheers

Cubes when you heard monocop the dude was saying monocoque. Basically, it means the strength of the frame absorbs any forces it is subject to. So he means the body of the car shares the load and therefore the chassis rails aren't too much of a stress if bent. The common example of a monocoque frame is an eggshell - the shell itself provides the strength rather than anything inside. And Steve that damage sucks. My car is in the shop at the moment care of a forklift crushing both outer sills and they've now rusted out - cheers Geoff Hey I have a spare sill panel for your R32 if you want! I think it's the drivers side but I haven't seen the car for weeks and cant remember. Actually, you're in Perth mate, disregard!

If you can find a RAWS, have a look at SEVS cars. The guys have offered some excellent advice in my opinion. There is no such thing as a cheap GTR. You'll pay the price, one way or another. $25,000 should see you in an older model that has had most things fixed. Please steer well clear of the "BNR32, $17,000, I just imported it but am moving overseas, blah blah". The engine rebuild that car needs will take the total price up to $25,000ish. And as PSI GTS said, 89 doesn't always mean a lemon. Japanese guys don't seem to look after their older cars as well as SAUers so perhaps keep looking for a private sale? I'd pass on the dealer - other than their statutory 3-month warranty there isn't much point in going to a dealer. Even then, in the event of a claim (clutch etc.) they will probably allege that you've voided the warranty by 'racing'. Old trick. As the man said, buy on condition.

I am also interested please. NewKleer: I read that the port only appears/works on 1991+ model ECUs. Would an 89 R32 with a later model ECU work you think? Or are there sensors that are not present in the older models? Mark

Thanks for the replies guys. Duncan: I just don't trust the engine yet and after Links refreshed my memory, I'm pretty sure doodz suggested Satanic (man this sounds like days of our lives ) check the ECU before going and spending money on new O2 sensors and AFM's etc. It's just one of those things I'd like to run once, see what the software has to say about all the bits and pieces on my *genuine! * 70,000km engine. I'd just like to know it's all working properly cause the idea of a rebuild is scary and financially out of reach for the next 12 months. If I took the car to UAS to have it checked it'd probably cost the same to buy the cable and run it on my own laptop...

Why Ben? Not being a knob, just keen to learn

Just read through this thread on aus300ZX and was wondering if any/many SAUers use it? Is this about the right price ($100 for serial cable, software additional)? Does the novely factor wear off? It looks like it'd be great to check the engine/ECU but it also seems to be one of those things you'd just like to borrow from a mate twice a year. Is Datascan the best software available for it? I vaguely remember a recent post where a guy was replacing an R34 O2 sensor and a few freeware versions of the software were mentioned. Cheers

Those 17's look great. Vote 1 for buddyclub

Sounds awesome Rylan, congratulations. When you can, I'd love to see a side on pic of the car to see what the gold badges look like. Good work

If something seems to good to be true, it usually is. If some guy is selling a 'brand new, in box, AVC-R' for $300 because it's an 'unwanted gift' then either go see it in person or pass. DON'T send money, DON'T be one of the thousands scammed by knobs selling gear that doesn't exist.

Well remember that something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for them... and $200 was more than I was willing to pay... That said, Danny I found a set at JustJap for $75 with clips and all. Still has a few scratches but 5 minutes of brasso will sort that out. Sorry mate, I forgot to ask Tony if he had more Mark

If the car has just been complied, why has the price gone up please?

Can you have wheels repaired? My wheels are a 2-piece - the main rim is spun alloy and the centre is painted. The rim is fairly pitted and I was hoping you can have it repaired and painted. I understand that it cannot be spun again to restore the finish. Not fussed, just keen to have them looking a little tidier. Any advice appreciated! (And apologies for the hijack Dru)

I'd buy the sil80. 1989 180SX's are available for $10,000 and less. There should be plenty of smashed S13's around that you can find a nose for cheap. When the CA18 blows up (because it will) you can replace it quite cheaply by comparison. Please please please keep in mind, as lwells said, ANY sports car (a real sports car) will cost you a lot in ongoing expenses. You now need better tyres, better fuel, insurance is dearer, an 89 model will have some form of body rust, and so on. As long as you're ready for that, no problemo, fill your boots You can't buy a 180SX and expect the running costs of a Corolla, so be prepared. There must be a point where you're buying a car on the cheap that requires a fair bit of work done (repairs I mean) or buy a dearer car that is in better nick (that doesn't need repairs)? But as all the guys have said, it's up to you and only you can answer the question. Re: modifying the car - remember that every dollar you spend modifying the sil80 is another dollar you have to save before you can buy your GTR...

When I lived in Canberra and drove my 180 early in the morning the low temps were the goods but the black ice you'd get at the same time meant slower, not faster

As the linky no longer worky, could one of you smart chaps please explain what an MD5 hash check is? By the sounds of it an algorithm that is created at the time of production and checkable when printed or something? Signed, IT numpty