cowie165

For what it's worth, I was about to buy the Alpine amp but pics to prove the model was as advertised still have not arrived. No contact since requesting the pic.

10.646m^3

Hi guys, sorry been away for a few days with work. That's the one and I'm dead keen if you can find it... Cheers! Mark

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Linton I'll volunteer my car for an R32 testbed if you're interested. I will be making my own in a few weeks anyway. And your R33 looks brilliant! You cant see much from your sig/avatar; the pics in the gallery are the money, and she looks great! Mark

Hi, I'm after the "S" badge that appears on the JDM R32's (above the grill, between headlights). If you have one, I'm keen to buy for up to $20 (based on condition) plus postage. Thanks Mark

Hi guys, Does anyone out there in SAU land have a link for the index of what cars currently have RAWS endorsement? We're thinking about buying a late model Legacy but wondering if we can import ourselves. Gut feeling is that they're all private imports - just makes finding the one you want a bit tougher. Any Aussie subaru discussions/forum links would be appreciated too if any spring to mind. Thanks guys Mark

A few weeks shouldn't be *too* bad. Aside from normal damage from corrosion, it may pit the brake rotors and necessitate replacement.

Try a search. lwells posted a thread a while back about DIY radiator flush for R32 GTR, it's the business.

In my opinion the sump plug method will be easier. Sure it's messy but isn't it easier than getting to the filter, again, and again, and again? Personal preference. But the drain bucket under the sump, strap on a kitchen glove, and off you go.

Ah, no prob, cheers Barny

Hi Barny I'm keenly waiting to see how it went. Would you mind also posting what tools you used and how much time it took you? I'm guessing when you say brakes you mean changing the rotors or did you mean pads only? Cheers Mark

$800 a pair afaik. It depends on how long you watch the for sale section Mark

Actually Nathan the rear shelf comes out on its own. It's just masonite covered in fabric. Found all this out during window tinting. As for getting it out? As Nathan said, rear seats out, and go from there. Afaik you need to remove the rear wiper, but the manual will reveal all secrets. Mark

Based on what mr rbman has said, plus the manual also says you need to adjust at the shoe, it'd be best to do it once, do it right? I'm keen to hear how you go cause mine neeeds a tighten too, but is way at the bottom of the to do list! Cheers Mark

If this sounds rude, I apologise. You get the weighbridge ticket from a weighbridge Yellowpages prob have listings. If you're taking the car to a workshop to have someone to the ADRing for you, they'll organise the wb ticket for you. Yep the greenslip is the CTP, but just wanted to point it out cause it'd suck when you get excited on the way to the RTA just to find out you're missing some paperwork. The RTA people are (generally) poorly educated on the whole 15yr thing. I spent a looooong time politely arguing that my car doesn't need a compliance plate and the lady insisted that "it's a grey import, it HAS to have a compliance plate". Groan. If you search for threads started by "lwells" in this section you'll find a great thread with all the info you could ever need. Cheers! Mark

For rego you'll also need the greenslip and the weighbridge certificate and potentially proof of payment (ie. the TT receipt). It depends on how tight the RTA teller is... Mark

You should be eligible for an exemption from the DEH. You are entitled to one exemption between now and 31 Dec 05. Just photocopy your D/L and forward it to the customs guys handling your car when it arrives. You'll also need a letter stating your name, the VIN and that the vehicle is a one-off import for personal use (I think that's all you need to say?). Beam over a PM if you want a hand with it and I'll send you a copy of mine. Don't let the customs agent charge you for it though. Seaway will do it for free (as it doesn't cost them anything), yet CGL in Sydney will charge you $150 to forward (read: fax) the letter you've just faxed to CGL. Apparently it's for their time/labour expenses incurred. Don't get sucked in. Choose a different agent as they won't budge on the fee. Cheers! Mark

There is a thread in this folder called "My GTR thread" or something similar, posted by Pentae. If you read through it, it lists the two different R32 bosses available, and which one is HICAS. It has part numbers and where to get them. Mark

Hey Rylan Have you seen this one? http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3138 And for the chap with the coke can hole in this outer sill, they are $323.00 new ex-Japan. Welding etc additional of course. Mark

When I sold my 180SX the potential buyer ordered an RACV inspection. They wrote it up as a Nissan 200SX and proceeded to detail a tirade of nonsense that highlighted the mechanics lack of experience. BAD POINTS "Engine surges under load" "Ummm yes that's what 12psi on an SR20 does." "My hilux has a turbo and it doesn't do that!" *groan* Hopefully the guys are better these days The report went on about the non-standard seats (had engineers cert) and the non-functioning wipers (that worked). I think I have the report somewhere. It's great for a laugh. Sorry about OT. Mark

Hi Rylan Well the 40% is just my opinion. J-spec/Prestige have suppliers that are trying to offload cars, not sell more at a loss. Imagine if you bought a car from a dealer here then decided nope and wanted him to buy it back - chances are he'd only offer a pittance (ie. a fair loss on your part, so he can make money selling it again). I agree with Dale about the rear guard. It's the one behind the door above the wheel. I also agree about the rust IN the guard. As it's a flat panel, it may not be too expensive to fix and then paint on top. Perhaps you could get it fixed first, then paint it when (if?) you buy skirts or a new front bar or whatever. The other R32 was the silver one, but yep I forgot it said rust there too If J-Spec can get you more pics, close ups, then that mightn't be too bad. MAKE SURE you get pics of underneath (chassis, sills) and inside the boot, under the carpet. Just a tiny bit of extra insurance that it isn't a total rust bucket. If they say no sorry too hard, then pass on the car. If the car is good to go, I'm sure they wouldn't mind taking a few more pics to convince a potential buyer. Daler32: a coke can! damn! What's the best way to fix that you think? My car's rust is in the sills - looks like it has been forklifted or mounted a gutter or something and then rusted at the dock. Mark

If you've got time on your hands, it may well be the way to go. Mine is barely driven at the moment whilst I do the 'standard' 89mdl repairs. You could spread the cost out over the year but still take advantage of the 15yr rule. Did you notice J-spec has added another R32 that looked nice/straight? Re: reselling - We are all buying cars at a fairly well inflated price, eg pre-15yr rule, 89 GTR's were around Y500k(ish) and now average Y1M. That means that if you buy the car, decide to sell it overseas then expect to sell it for 40% of what you paid, if you can find a buyer. Remember that noone is going to assist you with the sale though Based on your budget, it could well be a goer (long-term) Mark

I agree it looks very nice, although if it's an 89 there may have been multiple sprays. As far as I know white wasn't a factory colour for 1989/90 cars. Please correct me if any knows 100%. Perhaps check FAST. Mark

Thanks for the posts guys. Heath I'm keen to confirm 100% that it's a no-go. Cheers