cowie165

Trial and error. The multimeter is your friend If you have other Nissan service/workshop manuals, you could check there. I vaguely remember the S14 manual detailing the audio harness...? Not sure. Mark

Hi guys, I'd love to hear any thoughts: I jacked the car this arvo and during a claustrophobic inspection, I noticed a lot of light brown fluid all over the FR suspension components. The stuff had the consistency of watery mud and the same colour as peanut butter. It was all over the castor rod, the control arms, and just about everything else down there, but not on the shock. The axle boot has split and it looks like more of the fluid is in there and may have leaked out and splattered back all over the place. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? Is it just axle lube/grease? Could it indicate a pending failure? If I tidy it up and replace the boot, should I be right? Thanks guys Mark

Is it legal to cut the plate? Mine is currently bent, but I was planning on attacking it with the jigsaw this weekend to trim off the fat at each end. There is probably some clause about damaging/defacing RTA plates though....? Mark

:werd:

Our family car used to be a 47kW auto corolla. Lane choice was all i had... but as you said, it works! Mark

Unsure about offset. 18x9.5, 245/40's. The car is lowered a bit, and the rubber *just* clears the inside of the front guards. A greater profile wouldn't fit. And if you care, 245 on 9.5 leaves LOTS of room - if I did a gutter park, I'd prob scrape the rim first. That said, 245's tramline enough that I find it annoying - 265's may be worse. Tyres: Yoko A539's + Federals (that hold better that you'd expect, unsure of model) Mark

It's not a big deal, but the Aust GTR's had that because the outer lights are the indicators. The JDM indicators became the reversing lights, and the JDM reversing lights were turfed so that the wide Aus licence plates can fit. It's one way to tell an Aus car from a Jap one - there are no lights around the number plate. Mark

There was someone asking about how to clean/lube an R32 speedo cable, a few weeks back. Could a sticky cable cause it? (I've got it too) Mark

Sorry, no. I mean the one from the instrument surround. Sits in the hole under the speedo, where lots of people take it out to put in EBC's and TT's and stuff like that. Cheers Chef Mark PS What clock is in the cluster surround? Do you mean the centre console under the triple gauges?

If you have one sitting in your garage, pls PM your price or email [email protected] Cheers! Mark

The horn button just pops out. Same wheel. Mark

Just something to think about: rare care = potentially hard to find parts quickly/easily Mark

Headlight switches: When JustJap (sydney) have them, they charge $44 for a used one. Nissan can sort a new one for you for... wait for it.... $195. Ouch. I'm waiting for JustJap. Mark

:werd: If you're noticing most at 80-100 (or thereabouts) then it's highly likely it's a wheel balance that is required. $40, but ring them first to make sure they can balance an 18 x 8.5

Picked up the rotors today. Due to a quote stuff-up, Repco sold me DBA4000's for $181.00 each. Reminds me of monopoly, "Bank error in your favour..." I think that saving deserves a little celebration. "Cue the dancing bananas..." *insert circus music here* :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman Yay. Mark

Perhaps for comparison purposes, and if it isn't too much extra work, I'll change the rotors first and go for a drive before I attempt the caliper overhaul.

Guys the o-rings arrived today. The SJ6024 (rears) was manufactured by 'Lucas' and made in Japan. From the instructions inside, I can make out that the kit is designed for May 89 onwards HCR32's. And all the rest makes as much sense as my 2yr olds drawings. Looks like a good piece o kit. The SJ6070 (front, now 210E0011 just like Lucien mentioned) were manufactured by Protex. I'll give it a go this weekend and report back. DBA4000's arrive tomorrow, so I can finally turf the 29.6mm discs. Bring on the pedal feel! Lucien if you're still keen for a set and the Syd crowd are messing you around, let me know and I'll order another set and send it down to you. The price was $131 inc. shipping. Mark

It should be on the original built plate for the car. Most of the time they are a 3 digit code, eg. R32 gun grey is KH2. It's about the third row of text down. If you post your original VIN I can check it on FAST for you, otherwise, it's stamped on that blue plate under your bonnet. Mark

Hrmmm. I think I'll have to get one, but set aside enough to buy a worthwhile one. Richard: Thanks for your input, as much as I want to get out as cheaply as possible, I'll steer clear of the sleeve type ones now.... Abo Bob: As a guess I'd say yes. The reason I think it'd be a good idea is because you'd be cross if the gasket started to leak from non-uniform tightness (IMO it could be a hassle, but feel free to correct/comment). Any info on who does calibrations please? Mark

:werd:

The same broker, who shall remain nameless, sent me this (which now infuriates me): Please note that the buyer is making 25,000 yen on the car, that's it. There are no huge profit margins. Had the vehicle been in stock at the lower price, it would have sold 5 times over as we had that many people wanting it over the last couple of months that only turned it down as it was sight unseen. He had to move it to his yard, and therefore the cost was increased for the extra security of having the vehicle checked by one of our suppliers. I've mentioned this episode before, but just came across this email excerpt when cleaning out my inbox. When the car arrived, I was surprised to find there was significant rust underneath and the ATTESSA system had a critical leak that nearly necessitated dropping the rear of the car out whilst on the hoist. Boy I sure am glad that I paid for "the extra security of having the vehicle checked by one of our suppliers". To the guys that have had good experiences, I'm glad things went well, but I reserve the right to be pissed off for being misled. Mark

Thanks for the link Duncan. I like the one you've bought, looks like a quality item and has the range I'm after. JustTools.com.au has it for sale at $220. Is that about right? If I could find somewhere happy to offer it at trade price I'd buy it right now. There is also a Kinchrome one, with a micrometer style sleeve. Are the sleeved ones worthwhile? They seem to dominate the sub-$100 market, which probably tells me all I need to know....? Mark PS Who does tool calibration? Look up 'calibrators' in the yellow pages?? Sounds noddy, but I've never had it done before.

SAUers, Does everyone here use a torque wrench? I've been meaning to buy one, but have just been doing either 'finger tight' or 'tool tight' based on my best guess of how tight something should be. I priced a few and they vary from $50 at Supercheap to $175 (trade price, retail is around $250!) for a kickass 1/2" Repco wrench. The workshop manual states torque range from around 5Nm to 70Nm, which works out to be a 1/4" drive wrench (the 3/8 and 1/2 apply 40-150Nm). I like the 1/2" drive but need to be able to set a torque much lower than 40Nm. Any ideas/suggestions? Bite the bullet and fork out for a decent Repco one or just keep fudging it? Thanks Mark

For what it's worth, a while back one of the guys here mentioned there are 3 different types of headlights in the R32. There are 2 types of projector lights and the other type is the N1 set which has square headlights vice projectors. If I find the thread, I'll link to it. It has all the answers Mark

Hi mate JustJap at Kirrawee have 1,2,4. All new, in fibreglass. Prices $145, $350, $195. They also have 4 in carbon fibre for $350 or $395 or something like that. They're in the phonebook and on the net. Mark