cowie165

ABS East Maitland have the same part numbers (that Steve quoted) and are overnighting the parts. We'll see how we go! NB Front: $50.00; Rear: $75.00 Mark

Funny you say that silver, my brother-in-law had an R32 GTSt that had that light on for 3 months. After he ran up the ar$e of another car at traffic lights, he noted he had very very low brake fluid.

As a quick guess, do you need to lubricate the switch (the one next to the handbrake with the spring)? It may be getting sticky and not operating properly by returning to the 'off' position once the handbrake is lowered. It's in the coloured box (in the attachment). edit: you can't see it (the switch) in the pic (it's for indicative purposes only ), but if you take the console out (~5mins max) that's where the switch is on the R32. I'd expect it to be in the same spot on your car too.

Hi Dave http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=68078 Enjoy. Thank Lucien for the bookmarks. Mark

Jonn I can't quite make out the whole number plate, but I'm pretty sure that in Japan the numbers refer to the prefecture the car is registered in, and not the actual rego like in Aus. The vehicle rego is the kanji above the numbers. Maybe a Japan nut/visitor could clear it up... If they are identical, I apologise, the pic didn't come out too clear on my comp.

As everyone else has said, it's prob your battery. I had the same thing two weeks ago. If the batt has gone flat, you're probably looking at buying a new one, rather than trying to charge it and stick with the old one. I tried twice then bit the bullet. It takes around 20+mins of driving to charge enough to start the car again. To answer your q, the battery doesn't have enough charge to turn the starter motor. It is a cheap fix. Replace it with a batt that has 450+CCA if you can. Your starter motor is fine. Mark edit: Sumo's thoughts are it isn't the injectors. The rationale makes sense to me. The battery is still the prob though.

Hi Chris Interested in GTR cat, if still available. Your PM box is full. Could you please beam over a PM when you can or email [email protected] Thanks Mark

PM sent Mark

Yeah, there's always a list hey. My .doc to do list just bumped into two pages. Gearbox oil, finish speaker install, have a cat installed...

Kickass! It (the melted one) was the one on the right, like you said. Cheers Bazelinez. edit: Ar$e! Painstakingly aligned all the little black things, just tested, no joy. I guess it's a trip to the auto elec after all. Maybe it is that black box behind the light. Damn.

Thanks Steve!

Hi guys. Same problem: RH lights: OK LH lights: parkers OK, no dipped or high beam Checked: Bulbs OK, correct wattage, both work in the RH headlight Engine bay fuses OK Rotary switch: currently in pieces on a desk. The three plates work when tested (direct plug n play). One of the little black buttons appears to have melted? Should they all look like little Beefeater's helmets or should one have a flat end? Lots of ppl have said there is a L and a R switch. For the life of me I can't work it out. There are three plates - one switches lights off, one for parkers, one turns on the headlights. Where does the L/R headlight pwr come into it? What I mean is, some guys reported that when they turn the rotary switch hard, the dodgy L lights come on whilst pressure is applied. I checked around with the multimeter and at the black box behind the lights (has wires going direct to dipped beam and wires to high beam light) on the faulty side there is 12V on one terminal and zeroV on the other. The corresponding part on the R (working) side has 12V present on both. This is really convoluted, but there is a bit to cover. If you've sorted out this drama yourself, or are a dab hand with the electrics, I'd love to hear your thoughts please. The way I see it, it's either the black box (is it a relay? switch? I'm crap with elec) behind the headlight, or its the switch not working correctly (though I couldn't get both lights to come on when plugging the switch in and activating the lights by manually pressing the contact plate). Thanks in advance Mark

Targa Tom, Roy, blink_elk: thanks very much for the info, I'll give it a go myself. Have compressed air, will travel. SteveL: I searched a while for anything related, but couldn't find the thread where I last read about it - probably the one you're talking about. Could you pls post the PN's and the ABS site/contact details? I'm guessing they're not "Applied Business Solutions" (abs.com.au) Thanks again guys Mark

To give you the short answer, the ones that have them (none came with afaik) are ones that are NOT imported through the 15yr old scheme. Long answer: The current Registered Automotive Workshop Scheme (aka compliance) is different to the way you could import and comply cars a few years back (the whole cheap backyard compliance days). I think the changeover was May 02. Anyways, the DOTARS rules stated that they have requirements to meet before a car can be deemed roadworthy. This includes changing seatbelts, tyres, adding indicators and so on. The 15yr scheme (to paraphrase) means cars only have to comply with requirements for the year they were produced (I think). So my 89 R32 doesn't have side indicators, yet if you imported a 1994 R32 right now then the RAWS would install indicators for you. If you like the look, most workshops use the side indicators from VT Commodores, and you could prob wire them up yourself. Hope this answers your q Mark

I'd love to know more about what's what in the engine bay. I've rarely seen a race engine - what's the aluminium box in the top right of the pic? And is the strut brace setup better than a bar or just different? Rezz: I'm assuming that you spotted the bumper as a copy as it's a one-piece?? and thanks for the hosting edit: found another mention for the Aust GT-R. Not terribly informative, but the 1990 price tag is interesting.

I've heard it is a wise move, particularly on a 15yr old vehicle. I've looked through the service manual, and all I can see is remove the caliper and check for corrosion, remove and inspect the pistons, change piston seals, grease and reassemble. Have I missed something or is this it? When guys say that had the caliper overhauled and found out that only 2 of 8 pistons were moving, how do you fix it? Lube?? Finally, is it a job for the home mechanic? I remember reading that the DIY overhaul kit was super exy (from Nissan). I'm happy to have a go provided specialised tools are not required. Any info appreciated, search came up pretty dry. Thanks Mark

Sent to all above addresses and PM's. Guerilla: It's no trouble - for what I've taken out of SAU, it's the least I can do. Intensevil: Thanks dude. If you PM me the link I'll edit the first post to make it easier for everyone else and save the wait. Cheers Mark

The Wheels article says the rims a 4 18x11's. Doesn't mention tyres.

RAWS and old low-volume cars will have indicators on the wheel arch area (I'm guessing you mean the spot just above the GT badge. 15yr old scheme does not require these lights. From memory (ie reading here), no. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. If you're looking at one from an importer, then there isn't much to look for. Check out this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=516 for more info on what "runs well and is mechanically sound" can mean... If you're looking at buying one in Aust., it's pretty much like buying any other car, but check for rust in the boot and underneath. Most importantly, take the car for a drive, preferably with someone who has/had a similar car. If a vendor wants a deposit before they allow you to drive it, you should prob be very wary. Also try searching, there are other threads out there, and there is a sticky around too. Hope this helps. Mark

Sent to all above addresses. Cheers.

SAUers, Found this old mag (Wheels, July 1990) whilst cleaning out the home office. I scanned it thinking some of you may be interested. The article cites 576bhp @1.8Bar, driving 1325kg car. That was 15 years ago... Elsewhere in the mag there is an article on the 'new' 5.0L Ford HO motor. "Ford's brawny V8 is back with a vengeance" and 165kW. Mark PS I've got it in a larger .pdf that's around 1.8Mb, if it's hard to read or for bigger pics. PPS Check the filename for the page order, the comp has loaded them back to front.

Southside (SSPI) at Kirrawee have a leak down tester also. Charged me $80 for comp + leak down test. Speak to Chris - 02 9542 4280 They do a lot of work on R32 GTR's and lots for SAU guys. Chris is a great bloke and knows his stuff. Same rule applies here for Saturday work (happy to do so but best to ring ahead). Mark

Yes. No. I've fit 6"'s just recently. When you make the backing panel you'll need to bevel the top edge to around 45 degrees to make sure it clears properly. If you use 12mm MDF you shouldn't have any trouble with speaker depth. If you can wait until this time next week I'm going to post a how to with pics once I get them off my friends digicam. Mark edit: Thanks go out to Gareth/BADHABIT for enough info to get me started.

When Mark S assured me my car was on a boat on four separate occasions and 13 days after the 4th vessel sailed I had still not received a B/L, I sent a polite yet unambiguous email to Geoff expressing my dissatisfaction with the flow of information from Japan. Understandably, Geoff backed his supplier and returned fire. Surprisingly, the B/L was attached to Geoff's nastygram. It got the job done yet all parties involved were left with bitter tastes in our mouths. Mark also failed to mention when he stated "the vehicle is mechanically sound and there is hardly a mark on the body" that there was significant corrosion present on the RH sill and the mechanically sound vehicle had an unrepaired transfer case oil leak from long long ago and consequently the ATTESSA warning light was constantly on - not hard to miss... Oh yeah, and there is hardly a mark on the body because the vehicle has had a colour change back to grey from white. Grrrr. [/RANT]

If you're having trouble finding finer paper than 1200, you can use brasso on the reverse side of the wet & dry. It's prob equivalent (at a guess) to 2000 or so. Then use a sheet of A4 paper if you're really keen. Then brasso and a cloth. Sand/polish in a line, like sanding timber. Otherwise you'll stuff yourself over trying to get swirly scratches out. Mark PS Model car/model railway shops usually have very fine sandpaper avbl