cowie165

Skylinegeoff is full-time army I think? It's a pain when that happens! I've met the guys that work that sector. I work at Newcastle/Williamtown Tower and TCU. The biggest jet we see is prob a B738, plus the military stuff. The civil ATC system is based upon a computer that can calculate your SY slot time pretty much once you have departed, and that'd be why the controller had to shaft you with the holding but hey, if I know the flight number, I'm sure we can sort things out to make you an easy #1...hehe btw do you really get a fuel bonus? The car is in Bris, and should be ready for Sydney pickup around the 10th. That said, it sure feels good to know it's here finally. I don't think I'd import again - a nice 92 model sounds like the ticket! Mark

:werd: Like Starsky said, ring ring ring. Hailey (in Bris) has been flat out the last few days, clearly, and it's even hard to get her on the phone. Mark

lol. I'm an air traffic controller and my *cough* 89 model GTR cleared customs two days ago Mark

Just like Mark above, mine has also been cleared. There are undoubtedly a lot of vehicles to clear, and your car may have required a bit more love from AQIS. I wouldn't stress dude, all in good time. As Van Wilder says, "worrying is just like sitting in a rocking chair. It gives you something to do but you don't get anywhere." Cheers, I hope it gets sorted out quickly for you Mark

Thanks for the info, most appreciated. The full name is Supra 712's, but I'm not sure where they fit into the Kumho product food chain. Apparently the K104's are only available in VIC, so that takes care of that. I'm tending towards KU19's atm - a friend of a friend, years ago, had an Aust delivered R32 and he never saw the torque split gauge rise above zero. He changed tyres to an expensive Pirelli, and the car was completely different and the 4WD engaged as expected. That has made me very wary of being a tight@rse on tyres, and I used cheapies on a car a few years ago, and when it came on boost (esp. in wet) we were all over the shop. *hangs head in shame* lost to an N14 SSS that day... hehe Mark

I don't mean to sound rude, but you'd be better off ringing Qld Transport. I moved a 180SX from NSW to QLD a few years ago and it had to go to the Qld Transport pits and be checked by their engineer. Straight-forward process, just lots of time required for all the stuffing around. Mark

S13 phone-dialers. Suhweeeet. Seriously, the BBS LM's in silver are very nice looking wheels, although I agree with aKTIVE, they would be mucho pain to clean. Mark

hehehe touche funky! Hey funny aside, when I sold my 180SX years ago, this dude rang and wanted to check it out. I asked, "have you driven an import before?", "Yes, my car is imported. It's a Skyline!". I replied, "Excellent!" thinking now we're speaking the same language. Yes, he turned up in a rust-ridden, auto, Skyline wagon. Mark

Banks don't mind who the employer is in most cases, provided they issue you with a group certificate (now called Payment Summary). That proves that tax has been paid on the income and that your employer is a registered business. If it has been cash payment, then you will have a lot of trouble demonstrating to the bank that you have a regular income stream. If you're really stuck, you could try a Statutory Declaration that describes your employment situation, but you'd have to talk to the bank to see if that would influence their decision. I'm not sure what you mean about 'assuming the above is real' but I'm guessing you mean that you actually received cash payments for the work you've done. If you bank the earnings, as far as they are concerned, it is just a cash deposit. I deposited cash last week when I sold my motorbike, noone asks if it was cash earnings. You may have a problem demonstrating a savings history. Once again, it sucks, but if you deposited the money then put more in every week for 3 or 6 months, you'd be able to show the bank manager that you are worth lending money to because you can easily pay it back, based on your savings history. I hope this all makes sense. I'm not a financial adviser and it may be worth a quick visit to the bank. Remember they WANT to lend you money, that's where their profit is earned, and they should be very helpful. Be honest, explain your situation and see what evidence you may need. Mark

Although some people disagree, I think fitting GTR bits to a GTSt is ok. I prefer the GTSt rear spoiler (on a GTSt ) but the GTR grill and bonnet looks horn on any R32. If I'm honest with myself, if I owned an R33 GTR I wouldn't feel bad fitting a 400R bodykit to it. Each to their own, whatever starts your engine and all. That said, I still laugh at the Civic-spec "R34 GTR" that was for sale on eBay a while back. Oh yeah, and the SerIV RX-7 on Prestige's website that has the Ferrari bodykit.... and the MR2 on J-spec with the Ferrari bodykit.... *groan* Dude, relax. Rise above having a go at people. Choose to disagree and leave it at that eh? Mark

When I was ringing up about tyres today, the chap asked what model car it was for (not like it mattered because I knew the rim specs), I replied, "It's a Skyline" and he said, "....ohhhh ok. Is it a fast one?" I was dumbfounded. "Ummm, aren't they all?" Mark

NISMO32R: Hi mate, have you checked out a few threads or have some plans on which tyre? I looked at Yok A539's but they don't manufacture them anymore. I also looked at Falken FK451's, ZE312's, ZE326's and ST115's. According to a few SAUer's reports, the ZE326's stink and the FK451/ZE312 are a budget compromise tyre, with a few more guys recommending the ST115. The tyre guy my mechanic uses recommends (and sells, how convenient ) Kumho KU19's. I've read a good write-up on the net, but was wondering if you or anyone else has tried Kumho's. He used to distribute Falkens, got out of it because in his opinion they were inferior to Kumho's; the only Falken he would use would be the ST115. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Mark

I'd be very surprised if that DIDN'T happen It's another risk vs. return things again! If you are happy to take the risk on the rules being unchanged in Sep 05, then buy it today and sell it for profit in Sep/Oct 05 Yet it is more likely that you'll just be buying a car that will need a RAWS, and as you said, is Grade A. It seems that the importing hiccup changes every few months. In Aug-Sep, it was getting the VIA back - taking looooong time. From Oct-now, the shipping queues are very long. Perhaps they'll all be sorted in a month or two if NYK puts another trip on the schedule and then it'll be the 15yr waiting game that causes people stress! I guess it isn't meant to be easy, otherwise everyone would be doing it... hehehe Mark

Hi Jon. This car isn't grade 4, but it is interesting for price comparison purposes: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=1657 Apparently that's around the price that most old GTR's were prior to the 15 year rule encompassing R32's here and in Canada. IMO any savings to be had by buying an R32 that is not 'in-demand' would be lost after SEVS compliance costs - particularly so as there are so few R32 RAWS available. But that said, if it's the same price for a 1989 model and a 1994 model, I know what I'd prefer. Mark

Wow, good info to know. Cheers! I'm looking for a key blank too. Mark

Hello. Uniqueautosports have sterling silver GTR key blanks for sale at $60.00 each. www.uniqueautos.com.au Then go to GTR, then interior. I hope that is the type you are after. Mark

You're 100% correct. I guess my post was misleading - the phone itself WILL NOT jam the signal, but it can be modified to do so. I'm talking about the size and type of the transmitter inside. Just because you have a phone does not mean you cannot receive a GPS position, so Chris will still receive a GPS fix when on the bike. It's kinda like saying that every RB26 produces 600hp. If you have the right gear, then sure it's on the cards. I was involved in a study in 2000 and the phones available at the time could be used to interfere with the signal. The piece of kit that blocks a 150km radius area was in use and available for $4000. Interfering (sp?) with a 15m radius requires a lot less power and can be done much easier. The point I was raising was that a GPS tracking system can be defeated fairly easily by motivated thieves. I hope this clears my post up a bit, before you decide I'm talking out my @rse. Mark

A mobile phone is a large enough transmitter to be used as a GPS jammer. The microwave signal, although tiny (like mW) is enough to block/distort the GPS code. The phone needs a few mods, but they cause enough problems on their own. That's why the airline flight attendants ask you to turn on mobiles and laptops "as they interfere with the navigation equipment". Modern armies have GPS jammers than can block an area up to 150km radius. Sorry, what I'm getting at is that professional car thieves can make your GPS tracker a waste of money. Mark

ACT guys, sorry to spam your forum. Stirlo, dude your PM box is full and I need to get in contact with you fairly quickly. Pls clear a few PMs and then send one my way. Thanks Mark EDIT: Stirlo, goods arrived with this mornings post, call off the search party! cheers

When you're shopping around for them, check out the cruise cancel functions. In your family car it prob cancels on clutch pedal, brake pedal, or cancelling on the unit itself. Only reason I'm throwing in my 2.2c is because a workmate had an accident in the wet where the car (nothing stupid happened, it was a AU Falcon on the F3) fishtailed after it aquaplaned, and then the transmission shat itself as he was travelling backwards (as in car did 180 turn) and the ECU was still trying to maintain 110kmh. Turns out it was his aftermarket cruise did not have effective cancelling switches installed. Apologies if the story is a bit vague, it happened a while ago. Mark

When I was 19 I paid $19,000 for a 180SX (thank you Mr. Bank Manager) and my income was around $45,000. I ended up hating the car because it was always a struggle to pay the expenses for the b@stard. After loan repayments, there was the insurance bill, rego and maintenance. The car was great to get around in, but it'll quickly become a burden and pita if you're struggling just to meet the loan payments. IMHO I agree with the other guys that have suggested a cheaper car. I've been in your shoes, and you don't want to hear it, but an NA S13/R32 would be a better option. Better yet, buy something that isn't imported. TwinCam corollas are still good cars for the money - you'll have just as much fun without the large insurance bill (being 19 is going to smash you, and you're already tight for cash so you MUST insure the car). The banks usually use a Debt-to-Serviceability ratio (DSR), which a few guys have already alluded to (CC i think it was). They calc your income vs. expenses and see what you'd have left over. The other one they use is just like a property purchase and is called a Loan-to-Valuation ratio (LVR). Basically this is the measure the bank will use to make sure they can get their money back if you default on the loan. The bigger the deposit you offer, the easier it will be for the bank to get their cash back, => you are now a lower risk and they are more inclined to loan you money. The bank will want the car as security over the loan. This means that if you stop paying, they'll take the car back, sell it at auction, and then sue you for the difference between what the car sold for and the outstanding loan amount. If parents or whoever act as guarantor for the loan, the bank is more likely to loan YOU money, but if payments stop they will pursue you and your parents. I sure hope it works out for you, but I cannot emphasise enough how pissed off you'll be with a nice car in the driveway that you can't afford to take anywhere. EVERYTHING is more expensive with a sports car - better tyres, more fuel, and so on. Good luck dude. Mark

:werd: Me too.

So it seems there isn't much truth to the maxim of buying a stock car and modifying it yourself? From what everyone has posted, stock cars have just as much busted as one with new 2530's and twin-plate clutch etc.? To the guys who bought cars with mods already done, have you still come out ahead? All the '89 cars seem to cost around the same.

Whilst some people may poo-poo an '89 car because you have to replace a few bits and pieces, I know (and I'm sure most others in SAU-land also know) someone with a Gen3 V8 that leaks oil, or an SV8 which has stuffed suspension, or an SS ute which has a clunky gearbox and pops out of gear. I have a fair idea of what I'm getting myself in for, I understand bits need to be repaired/replaced but I'll happily do so because it's the car I want and a price I can afford. High-performance cars need more love than a Camry as everyone knows. The kms on a car are only one indicator of wear, just like gtrken and RB30-POWER have already said. Look at the pics you get, work out a worse case scenario for repairs, and if you are reasonably happy you'll come out ahead, then what's the problemo? I hope this doesn't come out as a rant - it isn't meant to be. I just don't understand why people get hung up over the odometre reading on a car as if a lower reading is necessarily better, or assuming that if the clock has been wound back the car is destined to be a permanent resident in your local workshop. Remember the old story about how your first car was owned by an old lady who only ever drove it to Church on Sunday? I'd rather buy from the revhead cause the old lady doesn't change the oil, inflate the tyres or find out what that grinding noise is... Compare apples and apples is all I'm saying. I've just had enough of ppl who feel that 15yo car = dunger. Mark

Hi Andrew, did you receive the PM I sent on Friday re: N1 vents? Mark