TXSquirrel

Right... as if the nicknames are not confusing enough for us newbies...

So what makes -9's flow more with smaller compressor wheel? Are -7's and -9's different on turbine side? I already have Nismo pump and I will get Nistune. Sounds like at same psi setting the -9's will flow more air than stock turbos?

So looking at ATP Turbo's website, they offer GTX option on -5's and -10's. No mention of -7's or -9's. Does that mean -7's and -9's are not worth the upgrade?

I'm okay if -9's flow less power than -7's, but if -9's are more responsive then I will stick with -9's. So with -9's on stock 440cc injectors, can I run 16psi? I believe 16psi is the base setting for Garrett actuators.

I am very interested in knowing as well. This past weekend I talked to another guy running -5's with GTX in his R33, and he likes it very much. But for my own setup I have been looking at standard -9's for a while, and so far I can't find any information/feedback on upgrading standard -9's with GTX.

Hi folks, Skyline newbie here, so please pardon my obviously elementary question. I was under the impression that -9's are smallest of the bunch, smaller than -7's. Is that incorrect? Because I ask the vendor to quote me quickest responding/spooling Garret turbo, and he told me that's -9's.

Yeah I feel a 2-day quote is a bit excessive, probably due to the lack of experience here. In addition, I am not sure what's the typical labor rate in Australia, but the hourly rate in my area is pretty absurd at $115 USD an hour. I rarely track my car. Although there are a few nice tracks around town, I only go when I cave in to peer pressure lol.

I have got quotes from two OZ vendors on a complete installation kit for Garrett -9's. Both prices are similar, but one offers all Nissan fasteners and gaskets for $120 AUD more, which I think is a fair price to pay for genuine OEM parts. But the question is, do I really need those genuine OEM parts? Also, neither kit comes with exhaust manifold studs and nuts, but strangely does come with exhaust manifold gaskets. So the removal of exhaust manifolds are expected, but the factory studs and nuts are also expected to be re-used? How often do they break? I have got quotes from my local shops, and I don't know if it's because of the lack of experience or this job really is that complicated. To swap both turbos (with engine in) and have both exhaust manifolds ported, they quote 2 full days or 15-17 hours. Two shops recommend removing engine for this job, which they say will have cost savings for me because clutch can be replaced at the same time. And for engine removal plus clutch work the estimated hours are 19-22 hours. Are those estimates reasonable?

Yes that's TwinsnailsUSA's car, he posted above. He is owner of Rivsu Imports Houston. https://www.facebook.com/RivsuImportsHouston/videos/vb.918224314897262/1041840929202266/?type=2&theater

Installed mine last December, still running great and no voltage drop. Surprisingly good looking product at this price. I plan to get my old stock unit rebuilt so I will have a back up.

Is there a lot of disadvantages tuning with airflow meter? Like slow response or inaccurate measurement? My main goal really is to get good and quick responsive low end, and top end output is just secondary. I thought Haltech could work on airflow meter without additional vacuum line, at least that's what it reads like on their website. I guess that leaves me only Nistune. I have been told at another forum to keep under 6k rpm at all times if I have stock short nose crank, so the thought of a dyno tune really terrified me!

I want to keep my engine bay looking completely stock, so I plan to keep the stock air box as well. (yeah stupid I know) I do plan to upgrade to Z32 MAFs, since they are abundant here and fairly cheap. I don't think during a dyno tune will get close to limiter. However I recall reading elsewhere to keep under 6k rpm during dyno to avoid disaster, or is that just a myth?

Thank you all for the suggestions and comments. Hmmm looks like only Haltech and Nistune can work with MAF, all the other ECUs will require running a separate MAP sensor. I think I am leaning more toward Nistune now. The local workshop that tunes Nistune is an official authorized dealer, but wow they charge $650 USD for a package, that's a 50% markup. So a follow up question. Can the stock narrow crank and oil pump survive the dyno tune?

Thank you all very much for the feedback and comments! I try to save money on labor cost, so for now I focus on upgrades that can be done with engine in. - Turbos and elbows are first, as I already have full Reimax exhaust. Is this a job I can attempt by myself with hand tools? Do the manifolds need to come out? - Cam gears. Is there a difference between brands? I see Tomei cam gears to be quite a bit cheaper than HKS. - Fuel injectors. There is a huge price difference for JDM brands, and I am struggling to decide. A set of Deatschwerks 550cc is $400 USD, but a set of NIsmo 550cc will cost me $650 USD. Do brands make that much of a difference for injectors? (I have a Nismo pump installed already) - ECU. This is a big road block for me. I really want to get Haltech, but the only shop in town that tunes Haltech has the worst reputation. Another shop has wonderful reputation but they strictly do Nistune. So do I go with a good tuner using old tech or a bad tuner using new tech...? The issue with dyno numbers is common, and it has more to do with dyno machine brands. Would be silly if the same car on the same Mustang Dyno produced a different number in the US than in Australia right? (actually would be lower in the US because of the crappy petrol we have) DynoJet is the most popular brand of dyno here, and the rule of thumb is to take 10-15% off to match a Mustang Dyno.

I didn't know Australian horsepower is its own thing and different from other standard measurements LOL I didn't know GT-RS has such bad reputation. How about the -9's I am looking at? I mostly cruise my R32, so I was told the GT-SS/-9's has the best low rpm response than any other turbos out there. I also didn't know Tomei manifolds are such garbage. I will see if I can get my stock manifolds ported to match Garrett's 38mm x 45mm port. So how about Tomei's turbo elbow? I have Reimax front pipe which is 60mm, same as Tomei's elbow. I knew the front diff is a weak point, but I really didn't know there is aftermarket units available! Is it an entire internal or just individual components to address the weak links? I have much to learn that's for sure.

According to HKS' own website, it's supposedly better than GT-RS throughout the entire RPM range. I guess that means GT-RS probably will be discontinued sooner or later... I just want to make sure I am getting the right turbos... I am also interested in getting Tomei's exhaust manifolds, but is that a waste of money? Since the inner port size of -9's flange is smaller than the port size of Tomei's flange?

Hmmm here is what I find. The Garrett part number for -9's is 707160-5009S and for -2's is 836026-5002S. The turbine side is identical for both, but the -2's has updated compressor side for improved response and basically a GT-SS replica. Both belong come from the GT2859R series instead of GT2860R, so neither comes with actuator but can be added anyway.

Thanks for the reply! I did some more search on Garrett and GT-SS, and I find the new Garrett "-2's" are basically GT-SS copy? Would you folks know anything about the -2's?

Hi folks, sorry to bring up years old post, but I am in the US and we are terribly late in getting into the Skylines. Is HKS GT-SS kit still available? Many websites still list it for sale, but HKS' official website is showing this kit discontinued...

Not sure what happened to those pictures previously, but they have been updated here. So my original question remains, is there a better solution than hacking away the factory drain tube to fit these Garrett's?

Wow totally off topic here So here is a picture of factory drain tube modified to fit the smaller oil outlet pattern of -7's. Provided by another member on Nico forum. And here is a picture of factory gasket over -7's oil outlet, also modified. Is there a better solution than hacking off the factory drain tube to fit the -7's? (or -9's since they both have same smaller oil outlet)

Thanks for the responses. My plan is to keep my entire car as stock looking as possible, so twin setup is my choice. I have thought about rebuilding stock turbos, but I decide to indulge myself with a little modernization of ball bearing. I will get Kudos' install kit with HKS oil restrictor. But I am still on the fence between new OEM drain hose and braided lines. Braided lines are too eye catching (I am probably the first person to see that as a negative.) If I use them I may pay a little extra to get black braided lines. I am on the fence as well between -7's and -9's. As far as I know the turbine side is absolutely identical - wheel and housing - and so is the compressor housing, with the only difference being the compressor wheel. But that is where I get confused. Compared to -9's, -7's has slightly larger compressor wheel but interestingly smaller trim. By looking at both compressor maps they seem to tell a totally different story. The -7's shows a much lower surge limit, starting at 56,000 rpm as compared to 75,000 of the -9's. The -7's efficiency suffers as a result, with only a small 71% island shifted to the left, while the -9's has a large 75% center island that covers majority of -7's would be 68% island. -7's -9's So my conclusion is that -7's has better low range while -9's has better mid and upper range. But the efficiency of -7's is so inferior compared to -9's that its peak 71% island is still within the 72% island of -9's. And that efficiency is what keeps me on the fence...

Hi folks, R32 noob here from Texas. I am looking to replace the old stock turbos in my 1990 GTR. My ideal turbo is to have the least lag at low end for good street driving, and I do not care for high output. After comparing compressor maps, my eyes are on Garrett GT2860R-7's at the moment. If you folks know another turbo that is less laggy and has better low end power please share! So from my search I find the oil drain outlet on -7's is smaller than stock, so what is a good solution? I find a matching oil drain tube from GCG, and I am curious if anyone has experience with that? My plan is to source the turbos stateside with installation gasket kit from Kudos. Thanks in advance.

Haha yeah I owned a Z31 for 14 years before I got this R32, and oftentimes I would wonder if it's just lazy engineering or their mechanics' hands are really that small. As suggested by Jiffo, I paid attention when cycling A/C off and on and turn steering left and right. The noise didn't appear to have change much, and that leads me to believe it's the alternator belt. So besides the squeaky noise when cold, there is also a mechanical grinding noise. And just like the squeaky noise, the frequency increases with more rev and goes away after warm up. Could it be worn water pump or fan clutch? Hence dragging the alternator drive belt?

I see. Sounds like putting the car on jack stands and adjust all 3 belts from bottom is the way to do it. I have not heard this trick before! I sure will give it a try.