TXSquirrel

Hi folks, my R32 GTR seems to have a squeaky noise coming from under the hood when engine is cold. I can't pin point where that noise comes from due to the cooling fan noise, but I would guess it's a loose drive belt. I am really new to R32 GTR (I guess most of us in the States are). The engine is completely stock, and from what I can see there doesn't appear to be any easy way to adjust any of the drive belts. The power steering belt appears to require removal of air filter box and turbo charge pipe. The alternator belt appears to require the removal of upper fan shroud and upper radiator hose. The A/C compressor belt, well, I am not even sure it can be adjusted without putting the car on jacks. Any tips or advises will be greatly appreciated! David

Quick update, no leak after a month and still functional. Not sure if anyone else have attempted this swap, but mine seems to hold up fine.

May not be necessary if you have the proper tools. But having the car on a lift surely made bleeding brakes much quicker than at home. The shop also has plenty of Z32s around, so maybe they can find you a donor unit in house. Or if you just want to check them out, it is a very cool shop with their own dyno machine.

Super big thanks to Dane Miller at Houston Z Auto for meticulously and patiently fitting Z32's ABS unit into my R32. Also big thanks to Omnigear for his keen observation on the similarity of Z32's ABS unit. Now, I can't guarantee that everyone will get the same result, nor can I guarantee my resolution will be permanent, but it sure beats filling the entire brake fluid reservoir once a month. I bought an used Z32 ABS unit for the 2+2 trim, OEM# 47600-32P00. The unit appears to be in great condition given the low cost of $35 shipped. The unit for a Z32 2-seater, OEM# 47600-30P01, looks to have the same exterior dimension and I believe it will fit as well, but I picked the 2+2 because R32 also has 2+2 chassis. Z32's units will most likely be in much better condition because they are either mounted in the trunk or behind the seat, as opposed to R32's being mounted in the engine bay. After the R32's unit is removed, here is how it compares to a Z32 unit. Z32 unit has white plugs with relay housing mounted directly on top of motor with no adapter for the brake inlet lines. And this shows how bad the leak was. The paint is pretty much ruined. After the 2 relays are removed, the plastic housing can be seen secured to the metal bracket below with 3 screws. After removing housing the metal bracket can be removed, which is an offset bracket and will be used on the Z32 unit. During this step Dane realizes there is a chance that he can swap over R32's oval plugs without cutting and soldering. So a change of plan. Here is a tip. Jam the thin metal pick into the back side of a plug and its metal bracket, and the plug will come off smoothly. And for reference, here are the pin-outs of the ABS units for R32 and Z32. So, the 6-pin and 2-pin plugs are attached to the plastic housing and can be transferred to Z32 all together. The 4-pin plug however has the 12v source attached to housing while the other 3 attached directly onto the ABS unit. Using the thin metal pick, the 12v wire at lower right of the plug can be de-pinned. Dane de-pins the 12v wire off Z32's plug and finds both units use the exact same pins. So even though the plugs have completely different outside shapes, internal dimensions are exactly the same, down to the tabs holding the pins. So now Dane has the confidence to de-pin remaining 3 pins, and soon all 3 oval plugs are off R32 and onto Z32's ABS unit. Next step is to take off the 2 metal adapters for inlet brake lines. Once they are off an obvious issue arises. R32's unit has 2 alignment holes, but Z32's is completely smooth. Now at this point there are a few options, grind the alignment dots off adapters, drill new holes on Z32, or the lazy man's option; just flip over the adapters. Well, I have never been the overachieving type! Here we are, plugs swapped, housing mounted on the offset bracket, and adapters bolted. Looks just like a R32 ABS unit! To finish the job off, nice Motul 5.1 goes in for the brake bleeding. That Z32 unit must have been sitting for years, because the crap that came out of it is just unreal. The "Crystal" logo on that plastic cup is especially ironic and funny. I will report back once in a while to let yall know if this Z32 unit continues to hold. After all it is off a 1992 and only 2 year younger than my 1990.

Yes the ABS kicked in beautifully! I took my car to a shop specializes in Z32s called Houston Z Auto. I stood next to the owner, Dane Miller, through out the whole process and took some pictures, which I will post later with written details. I can say most of us can do this at home given the right basic tools, a flare nut wrench for the brake lines and a long thin straight metal pick for de-pinning the pins out of a plug. Just remember, although the coloring of wires are different, pin numbering are the same, so upper left matches upper left and lower right matches lower right and so on.

Z32 ABS actuator is now in! The plugs were swapped over so there was no cutting or soldering of wires. Tested the system 5 times by braking as hard as possible from 50 mph, then drove 35 miles home. So far so good! I took some pictures and will post the details later if this Z32 unit continues to hold. I don't want to give you guys false hope. But heck, I paid $35 including shipping for this used unit, so if you guys can find one just as cheap feel free to experiment with it as well.

Just received Z32 ABS actuator. The exterior dimension is exactly the same, so are the 3 bracket mounting points. The only major difference is the vertical metal pieces used on R32's unit to mount inlet pipes straight up, which can either be reused or just bend the pipes. The plastic housing for relays are mounted directly on top of the motor on Z32's but offset on R32's, which can easily be relocated by reusing the bracket from R32's. The different plugs are not an issue to me. After a closer examination, each of the 3 cylinders has a different 5 digit part number, and Z32's are different from R32's. I see a total of 6 sets of different 5 digit part number on those cylinders, but at this point I really don't care to speculate about what those part numbers represent.

Turns out Z32s have two different ABS units, one for 2+2 and the other for 2 seater. I bought an used unit for 2+2 since GTR is also 2+2. I will post updates when I receive it, whether it works or not. I really hope it works because they are fairly cheap and plentiful. Even if the unit doesn't fit I can still take it apart and scavenge O-rings inside.

Thank you for the input GTSBoy. I struggled to find a specialist shop that would do this rebuild (including industrial hydraulic shops and a power steering specialist) even though I live in a fairly large town. So I talked to the owner of a reputable performance shop and he is willing to take on this challenge. I hope improve our chances of this unpredictable rebuild by getting the right sizes of O-rings. Thank you for the tip Omnigear. I scan through eBay and find Z32 units looks almost identical to the R32 units. The electrical plugs look different, but that should be easily solved. They are about $50 USD a piece on eBay, so I think I will take a gamble on that. So why wasn't a Z32 unit mentioned earlier in this post?

Hi folks, new R32 GTR owner here, and sorry to revive an old thread. The ABS actuator has been leaking since I got my 1990 GTR back in May this year. I would like to know if you fine folks can please share information regarding the size of O-rings, so I can gather them before I take mine to a shop for rebuild. Also, there was a mention of a video on tearing down the actuator. Is that video available? Thank you all in advance, Squirrel.