TXSquirrel

Hmm I would guess that is the LSD chatter. That means your front diff could be an aftermarket LSD and not the factory open diff, and it's not slipping properly. Trying adding some friction modifier to the front diff and see if that helps.

That small mushroom stopper is $10-$15 from Nissan now. I tried using a round top bolt and securing with a nut instead, it worked but made a metal clunking noise every time the pedal hit stopper, so I paid up.

enough with the all caps shouting, let's calm down and whisper

I thought the days of big power mod and no f**ks given to everything else were over long long ago.

Replaced mine with a Z32 unit more than 6 years ago, still holding fine. Still remember I paid $35 USD shipped for the used Z32 unit, and when I took it to my tuner who specializes in Z cars, they had a small pile of it in their shop.

I am starting to think it could be your speedo. I had the exact symptom as described in the flow chart I posted when my speedo cable broke, and my HICAS was untouched. Is there another GTST local to you that you can perhaps borrow the cluster to test? It's a fairly quick swap.

Get ATS carbon twin instead, better clutch than Nismo.

Looks like pin 5 is the speed input to HICAS. Were you getting signal there? Honestly I don't know what type of signal you should expect at pin 5.

Personally I think the "massive change in appearance" looks better than retrofit. It's got a nice design and makes the car look modern, plus the sparkling daytime running light looks way better in person. With any retrofit it looks, well, retrofit. In addition to the contrast look of an aftermarket projector, the gap between projector and factory bezel just never looked right. Again, that's only my personal take. As you mentioned, being able to keep the stockers as whole and unmolested sealed the deal for me. I can tell you the LED is not as bright as HID, but the cutline is very crisp.

Need to pull enough orders together to get Coplus to make LED headlights for R33, as the price has become beyond ridiculous. Comparatively the LED headlights Coplus made for R32 is ~$1000 USD for a set.

Does this flow chart describe your issues? Where your steering became heavy after a few minutes of driving, but it returned to being light after you restart? This came off the gtr manual, not sure if it applies to others but hopefully it helps.

Well I happen to have those written down on a sticky note in front of me, but they are for R32 so use at your own risk. 1. Gearbox: Drain 18-25 / Filler 18-25 2. Front Diff.: Drain 18-25 / Filler 18-25 3. Rear Diff.: Drain 43-72 / Filler 43-72 4. Transfer Case: Drain 18-25 / Filler 7-14 All units are in lbs/ft., convert at your own risk.

Can you please share how you did it?

With a lowered car if you want to dial back the negative camber, adjustable upper control arms are a must, both front and rear. They should also help bringing caster and toe back in the green, but as mentioned in previous replies that's not necessary and your specs look fine.

Redline's light/heavy weight are "no turning back" options. Once you start using either one it will begin to eat into the synchros. Try their MTL first to see if if the crunch improves for you, if not go for the light/heavy weight.

When I said I don't know much about the this, I should have said I don't know anything at all instead. That R32 was just a customer's car at a shop I visited, I thought it was bizarre so I took a picture. They did confirm first pill was still there before they took the engine apart, but I didn't ask any other detail about it. I guess you will just have to figure out the diameter through trial and error. Edit: I doubt you need both pills to control boost at a higher psi. Nismo may have left that first pill in place for originality and could be redundant.

There is a second restrictor, and it limits boost to roughly 22psi. However you won't find it in any normal engine as it's only added to Nismo S/R engines. I guess that's how Nismo decided to increase boost without active boost control device. I don't know much about it, I just happened to see one in a Nismo S1 engine under the intake plenum. Edit: This S1 engine was in a R32, so it's not limited to just R34.

Yeah and since this isn't my first backfire you think I would have learned that by now LOL.

Thank you all for the feedback. I bought the top molding first then read the manual, that's when I went oops. I thought I was being clever and saved money to find a website selling only the top molding, but looks I still need the whole molding kit so I wasted more money instead. Just that my two side moldings are still in really good shape, so I'm spending extra money solely for the damn clips.

Yes I read that already, a few times actually, but it's just not that clear. I mean, have you actually read it or you just copy and paste? "disengage fastener from side molding by sliding lower two side molding clips" - I don't get it. Does that mean pushing the clips downward until they slide out from the bottom corner of windscreen? Also, there are 4 clips on each side according to the graph, so leave the upper two in place? "remove side molding from fastener by pulling out lower end of molding" - Also don't get it. After the bottom 2 clips are out, I start pulling the side molding down? The top of side molding are 90 degree, won't that bend the molding by pulling down?

Hi folks, I hope to get some tips on removing front windscreen molding. The top horizontal molding on my R32 has faded, so I order a new one. Then I found out afterward the side vertical moldings need to come off before the top one can be removed. Are there tricks or tips to remove the side moldings and reuse them again? Thanks in advance.

Did you check the harness under dash? They would burn out occasionally.

If you are trying to lift the front, the best jack point is the cross member between oil pan and gearbox. It's even marked with an X for you. I would also use a wood block as well.

Under 4000 rpm I know the difference is definitely not just in my head, MTL shifts way better than MT-90 especially before fluid is fully warmed up and that's why I prefer it. Between 4000 and 7000 rpm the difference is interesting, it's hard to describe but kind of feels like stirring different viscosity drinks in a glass with a metal spoon. The MTL feels like stirring a more watery drink in a glass so I can move the shifter quicker, but the moment it goes into gear there is a slightly crispier but harsher notch, like clinking the glass with a metal spoon in coffee instead of smoothie, a feeling I'm still getting used to. With MT-90 the 2nd gear would grind before completely warmed up, and I switched about 6 months ago because a shop suggested MTL could help and the job was inexpensive. Will see how it holds up in the next few years. I believe you are right about the different fluids containing different additives and not just difference in viscosity. Your experience with the Castrol fluids could be comparable to my experience with Redline fluids, and I'm interested to know if others would like to try it, however sounds like Redline isn't as readily available there.

Nice color, I like it! Not sure if you plan to run stock intercooler, but the story of stock intercooler good for 600hp is BS. I would recommend adding an aftermarket intercooler. There is no clutch mentioned in your list, so I would also suggest a new ATS carbon twin plate. If your goal is a robust 400hp, I think the -5s are not the right choice. They hit the 400hp mark at later RPM and are meant for more.