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TXSquirrel

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Everything posted by TXSquirrel

  1. My Nismo pump was purchased new from RHDJapan 3 years ago. Sounds like the consensus is that the Nismo pump is much more likely the culprit than the FPCM? Is there any way to test the FPCM? So if I'm to bypass the FPCM for direct feed, what gauge wire is recommended? And what's that little valve inside the tank for? I always wonder why it's there...
  2. Hi folks, I would like to get some inputs on this issue with my R32 GTR... Car was on the dyno, the fuel pressure would rise to ~60psi no problem, stayed at ~60psi for about half a second then dropped to ~50psi, and then stayed at ~50psi until let go of throttle. Idle fuel pressure stable at 43psi. Made 315kw previously on 93 octane, now 275kw... Injector duty cycle at 108%, but AFR stable at ~11. A quick run down of parts: Nismo fuel pump, R35 injectors, R35 AFM, NZEFI resistor delete, brand new OEM FPR, Nistune, Garrett -9s. Is the Nismo pump running out...? Or could it be the pesky fuel pump control module...? What does the FPCM do anyway?
  3. https://www.dsportmag.com/the-tech/rb26dett-building-blocks-which-rb26dett-block-is-right-for-you/?fbclid=IwAR2CwPxSFF3k6AN_WKf_aDbIeEl7jP-QODtAjq-PFnogv4Dii0PbHxYjNlk Here is another comparison focusing on wall thickness, but they did have an old N1 block.
  4. I am considering sending my gearbox to Shep next year if I cannot find a good used unit. Will see how that goes.
  5. I don't believe ShepTrans sells individual components, they only offer complete rebuild service to avoid warranty issues. I also believe the $1500 base level rebuild is done with only their own in house parts, the PPG stuff is an optional upgrade. And yes they are pretty big in the R35 realm, the shop that pulled my engine uses Shep for their 2000hp R35 build.
  6. My goal is 350kw without e85, that's why I thought the 570cc would get the job done. I rarely drive mine and a full tank would last 2-3 months, so I can't really run e85. I also thought running R35 injectors with R35 AFMs should be a friendly combo to Nistune. Getting closer at 315kw during my last pull. Bought a 76mm Plazmaman but yet to install it, still waiting for my tuner's dyno to be repaired...
  7. Are you running any cams? I'm still running factory air box, so maybe that's my problem. Or maybe because I'm running R35 injectors at factory fuel pressure. I read somewhere that R35 base fuel pressure is 1 bar higher and that's why it can get that much power out of 570cc. Not sure if that's true.
  8. I got this divided charge pipe made not too long ago, if you are unsure about buying a whole intake piping kit. http://www.gtrusablog.com/2018/04/split-twin-turbo-pipes-by-alex.html This is what it looks like installed in mine.
  9. That's a lot of power for -9's, especially only at 20psi. What other mods do you have?
  10. Yeah the difference from 3000 to 5000 rpm is astonishing. My tuner made his pulls on stock R32 turbos, so with any decent aftermarket turbos the improvement should be more pronounced. He has actually pushed hard on those stock turbos and intends to blow them up as he has a pair of 2530 waiting to go on, but they are surprisingly tough.
  11. I extracted more info out of him, really hope he doesn't mind me posting this. RPM across the top and load on the left. Question for you folks about how camshaft degree translates into cam gear degree. His HKS exhaust camshaft has a centerline of 110, and he gained across all RPM range by retarding his exhaust cam gear by 2 degrees. My Tomei has a centerline of 115, to get the same effect how should I adjust my cam gear?
  12. My tuner just did some before and after pulls with HKS Vcam and shared on his Facebook. I would like to share that here for those thinking about Vcam. His car is still running on stock R32 turbos with steel turbine wheels. The pulls were done on E60 ethanol mix. https://www.facebook.com/houston.zauto/posts/1368728369930762
  13. Much appreciate the review! Coincidentally my Do-Luck standard G Sensor should arrive in mail today. I am very curious about all the different settings I can play with.
  14. You are referring to BNR32 right? I am not sure there is a rear outer tie rod bushing, but there is a ball joint and that is the part number you have.
  15. I have similar set up as yours and also getting about ~300rwkw on 17psi with 93 AKI (not sure what that is in RON), so I'm interested to see your new results. I'm confident Nistune won't be an issue for you, and my tuner had done plenty of +400kw Z32s on Nistune with stock Z32 AFMs so I'm sure your other hardware is up to the task as well.
  16. Great! I didn't want to do it before only because I didn't like the look of welds on it. Now there is fabricator in the US making his pipes look fairly seamless as seen in that picture, I am in.
  17. Gathering thoughts/opinions on divided charge pipe. Looks like a fairly low cost way to improve consistency and perhaps some power. http://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/01/divided-rb26-twin-turbo-pipe.html
  18. My bad, I should have phrase my sentence better. Yes Nistune reads IAT and I can see it on my laptop, just that it cannot be used as an input to the fuel or timing map. I don't think it can do safe mode trigger either, obviously I can be wrong but I think that is what EGT for. I guess Nistune probably could be improved to utilize IAT, but since it uses MAFs already IAT becomes less significant.
  19. Mine is R32 and my IAT still sits in its stock location right before the plenum. I am running Nistune, which does not use IAT as an input anyways. So I will not be able to offer IAT data, but hopefully I can at least offer my dyno data.
  20. Replacing 28 years old factory R32 intercooler. I will not change any piping or coupler/hose, strictly just the intercooler, so will be good data. Now I think about it, Plazmaman should share some of the cost!
  21. Received my Plazmaman a while back, finally got around to take some pictures. As expected, all the tubes and fins are upside down... I was going to just install it and call it good, but my tuner suggests I should get some before and after data. Two pulls with factory intercooler, one at wastegate pressure and one with controlled boost pressure, then same pulls after installing Plazmaman. However weather is terribly hot here right now, so I will probably wait until October or later to do it. Hopefully I will have some good data to share.
  22. Yeah I emailed and called them Monday morning, no response until now. $200 USD plus shipping and a 1-2 month wait... I had bad experience with polyurethane bushings, but if I don't want to get those eBay junk then looks like Whiteline is the only option left. $160 USD shipped through Amazon, so actually not a bad deal.
  23. Just realize Whiteline uses polyurethane bushings instead of rubber. Not a fan of polyurethane, so I will try to source a pair of Hardrace. However, I found this brand I never heard of called TruHart also makes one for 2/3 the price. Have you guys heard of it? http://www.truhartusa.com/Rear_Upper_Control_Arms_for_89_94_240sx_Skyline_p/th-n201.htm
  24. Thank you all for the information. Yes I would just like to get back to factory spec, no setup for track or anything else. My car came with Nismo S-tune coilover, which only lowers 10mm so should not be a big issue for camber. Front components are all Nismo, but but rear control arms are still factory, so they are 28 years old now. Given how old the rear arms are, I thought just getting new ones would fix the camber, but my alignment guy had doubts because of how little adjustment the eccentric bolt can do. I have never heard of Hardrace, they seem to offer a good range of products, but trying to buy them in the US appears to be a pain. I think I will go with Whiteline. Even though Whiteline only labels their upper controls arm to fit S13 and Z32, they are identical to R32 correct?
  25. Recently got an alignment for my R32 GTR, all still within spec except left rear camber. Still riding on old factory upper control arm, and the eccentric bolt is maxed out. They told me a new bushing will not make up enough of the 0.5 degree difference even if I get new OEM upper control arm. Is that a fair statement? How about the Nismo upper control arms? All the adjustable aftermarket options I find all use solid bushing, but I still want to use tradition rubber bushing, is there no such aftermarket option?
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