Omurru

+1 for centreline

number?

lol, the fans not that hard to hold still when you start the engine, the coupling just slips the same as when the engine is revving which is what keeps the fan at a fairly constant speed. I wouldn't go putting my hand in there when it's already spinning but otherwise.....

lol tell me about it, I worked 4 12hour 3-3 shifts this week, then in the afternoons have put in an oil cooler (which ended up having to be totally custom fitted), ally radiator and new rotors....bedtime now I thinks, see you all tomorrow

piccies: http://www.in2events.com/galleries/20080302_HR_MOTORSHOW/

Id just replace the pipe. Clean the oil of the cooler and see if it comes back, if so might wanna get that welded/tested etc. Other thing i'd be looking into is why there is so much oil in your cooler pipes.....

Yeh I saw that the other night, just before the pascoe vale road bridge, the 80km/h sign was about 5m infront of the lines on the road for the camera....dunno what speed I was doing but it was prob somewhere between 80 and 100...will see if the fine comes

details, from where, how much? etc....

From what people have said who I have asked with regards to the radiator cap they should be ok. Many holden/ford cooling systems run a 1.3bar system and the cheepass chinese radiators for these have no probs with the caps so I don't expect these to be any different. Obviously over time any radiator is going to deteriorate and eventually rupture for one reason or another. The best way to keep a radiator in good shape is good coolant and regular changes to keep the system clean. Anyway, when I get mine, sometime next week now cos autotechnica have no stock will let you all know how I go.

Is anybody using one of the 1.3kg/cm2 radiator caps with these radiators? Any problems?

Thought this would be more of a vodafone arena type event, somehow doubt a big act like tiesto would be playing at festival hall.....anyway time will tell...

nylon? you mean rubber I think? Anyway, either A: buy a surge tank with push on hose fittings or B: it's new hose time. One thing I personally don't be cheep on is fuel system stuff, I use all teflon braided lines on mine as they keep the fuel smell out of the boot where are rubber ones seep and you get a boot that smells like fuel. You can get push on hose - screw on adapters but getting a size to suit the already existing fuel line might be a bit hard....

yeh best bet is to just make your own up, grab some of the black gasket goo while your there as well, liberal amounts of that and a gasket and it'll never leak

I'm having a similar problem at the moment with my 33. When the weather is hot and I am on the freeway the temp slowly creeps up, as soon as I get off the freeway/stop it drops back down again....Kinda weird considering that cars normally cool down on the freeway. At the moment my money is on the thermostat. Just gotta get my hands on a new one to change it and will do the coolant at the same time. The radiator cap in mine feels fine, lots of spring tension...but not as much at the 1.3bar one sitting on my shelf so don't think it's that....

yar that was the first place I thought about, but don't have anything

Anybody know somewhere I might be able to get myself a low temp thermostat before the weekend? Or does anyone have one sitting on their shelf they are willing to sell me

No idea on the airevacuation system, but once the driveshaft is out yes it is safe to run like this. Many tuners tune GTR's on a RWD dyno only. But if your doing dyno runs at a comp lets face it AWD is cooler I wouldn't go to the hassle of pulling the driveshaft out....

looks good chris. making one up myself at the moment, how thick was the aluminium you used and what type of aluminium was it? Does it make much of a difference when it comes to welding if your using a soft or hard ally?

Yeh the other car was a company car so insurance shouldn't be too much of a problem, hopefull I don't get stooged and get a decent payout considering i've just spent so much money on it. Anyway just waiting for a call from his insurance company today and we'll see how it goes. P.S. If anyones got a shitter for sale I need something to get me to work and back for the time being. Think I might save up a bit more money and buy a discovery

I think most people that know me know of my totally awesome dyno queen of a wagon that had to be jacked onto the RE dyno cos it was too low Anyway just when she was running nicley with the new engine and all the replacement engine bay bits this happens The other car turned right through the intersection infront of me and didn't give way, braked and swerved but still hit him square in the back wheel, mashed my car but his only had a few scratches. Suppose at least I did swerve and didn't hit him in the doors, could have been alot worse for his passenger..... Anyway piccies and a squashed pod

How do you know only one turbo is working? perhaps a dodgey wastegate actuator?

Looks like a good idea to me as well, I mean it can't hurt. Although as said if the particles are small enough to get through the filter there probably not really gonna effect the engine I always thought the magnetic sump plugs were more for an indication of when your starting to wear bearings for whatever reason. The turbine engines on the planes at work have a Mag Plug in each of the "oil out" lines from the main bearings and are used as a way to pre-determine bearing failure. If there is no/very fine particles on the plug no worries but if you start getting bigger ones then you know you have a problem. Although I suppose the question with car engines is does the oil get filtered before it goes into the engine or after it comes out, as if it was the latter you'd never know cos the filter would pick up any bits....

I don't think you understand what has been said here. Spring's don't really wear out....the shock absorbers do. If you put low springs on a long stroke shock absorber (ie. change the springs and not the shock absorber) you'll find that the car bounces around, when you go over a speed hump for example instead of just the normal bump you get now, the car will bounce up and down a couple of times. This in turn wears the shock absorbers out much faster so over time it'll bounce more and more. Handling etc. is effected as well but this example is the easiest noticable difference. Just to ad some more problems, you will probably find if you lower the car you'll need camber kits as well. As you/the wheel joint wont be able to get the camber back close to 0 degrees (ie. the wheels won't be straight up and down they will be on an angle to the road) and you'll wear one side of the tyre much faster than the other.....

haha, agreed!

I think i'd be more inclined to find the cause of the problem as opposed to just bypassing it......