Omurru

This may be a stupid question, but on rb 25's why does the cooler piping criss-cross around the engine bay, stock fair enough whatever, but when doing custom jobs why not have it of the turbo down the left side and up the right side and around to the plenum? Can still use same holes, bov is still in similar place etc???

I am currentley running a stock standard fuel system and making 415hp at all 4. An unrestricted line has a pretty high flow rate, my problem at the moment is at high rpm the pump can't supply enough fuel eg. it can't maintain a constant pressure at the rail, hence the need for a bigger pump/more flow, also as the pump and injectors are fairly well matched (factory spec) the injectors are at 100% duty. Hence the reason you buy bigger injectors bigger pump this means you have a blarger flow rate through the system so more fuel is avaliable to the injectors (pump) and more fuel is avaliable to the engine (injectors). Running a higher pressure is a different story all together, at a higher pressure your injectors will supply more fuel to the engine. Hence technically if I wanted to I could just put an 044 in the tank up my fuel pressure and I would probally be alright, but I would be overworking my injectors so they would shit themselves pretty quickly. Hence the other reason you buy bigger injectors bigger pump and run stock pressure but with a higher flow rate. Bigger lines may be required, if the standard ones can't flow the required rate. Do a bit of research, see what the max flow at standard pressure of standard lines is, if it's more than what your pump can flow at that pressure your sweet.

The stock fuel system, maybe with an adjustable fpr say a nismo one will be able to cope with 300kw but thats about max it can do. Well a 33 system at least not sure of the differences between 32 and 33 system. For peace of mind though and what I will be doing in the coming weeks is an 044 in the tank, SARD 700cc injectors and a fpr (not sure on which one yet). standard lines can still be used with this set-up as long as your still running standard fuel pressures or close to standard, you may just want to zip-tie the lines on for piece of mind . This sort of setup should accomodate over 400kw. Surge tanks, bigger braided lines and dash fittings are not required unless your over the 500kw mark. The stock fuel rails will handle up to about 700hp so no need to change that unless you want the bling. As to the filter this is something i haven't really looked into yet but perhaps something a bit better flowing than the standard ones may be in order. I was originally going to go all out to cater no for future plans, but decided against it. For a street driven car in victoria at least a surge tank and pumps in the boot is asking for trouble, and isn't really required at this stage. Later on down the track you can always add in the extras.....

blue sky, sun and clear skys at my place. Pitty about the 600million mph wind

Thats the best way to do it i found, no need for chemicals and liquids and shit come of nice and clean. any electronics store should have freeze spray.

Can't do that with the 33's. You have to get one of the electronic controllers. Or just learn to do it with the 4wd engaged.....you only have to be going about twice as fast

oh yeah it doesn't work

Works just as well as the wifi spray, and the pet bread, and the battery saver tape and the stupid swirly things that go in the intake and the this piece of paper taped to you rear sway bar makes your engine put out twice as much power.

nope they all go bang when you put a match to them . As said above Iso or acetone/acetate are the best things leave no residue at all so no worries

acetone, shellite or isopropyl alcohol is very very good for that sort of stuff if you can get your hands on any. I find petrol tends to leave a residue.

I used to sell these through my business...back in the day. Neons give a much better spread of light where as leds tend to be spotty as you said. Vegas Glow have a product called fading neon kits which are probally more of what you are after. Where the light runs up and down the tubes to engine revs of music or whatever. From memory there about 240 for a kit so a little more than standard neons. Only thing with neons though is for them to look good you have to be able to mount them so that when you are standing beside the car you can see the tube itself only the light, so you need to have some decent skirts on the car and it also needs to be fairly low to the ground so you get a good bright spread of light. If the car is high or you can see the tubes it just looks plain shit regardless. If you are in Melb, forgot to look before I started typing this send me a pm and i'll give you the address of the place that imports vegas glow stuff there in nunawading think you can buy for them without a dealer account, or on ebay I have dealt with 'online performance autos' many times before and there very good they should be able to get them in for you at a reasonable price if you ask.

I was always told it is bad to run right to the bottom of the tank, cos you pick up all the stuff that normally sits in the bottom....I had issues with my commodore a while back with fuel pumps shittng themselves because of excess buildup of sludge and crap in the bottom of the tank....

it's annoying me not being able to remember the name of the place I mentioned above...grrr.....Promaz, Maztech and Selectmaz are all in the nothern suburbs too if you have an intrest in chickencookers.

Remember seeing ad's for a joint in the western suburbs looking for 2nd and 3rd yr app's but i can't for the life of me remember the name of the place, they specalised more in aussie drag cars than jap cars though. Another option though (and what I do ) is doing an apprentiship with qantas. I used to be in the same boat as you, wanted to work on cars etc. but figured I could do that at home anyway, why not doing something different at work and had always had a keen intrest in airliners so deicded to do that and couldn't be happier! It sounds like you have already started an auto app with someone and want to change though, best thing to do I would say is just send your resume around to everyone regardless and see what responses you get back.

and whats it called?

Whats wrong with that.....as long as it a good one

Hmmm, nobody have a factory black carpet in their skyline????

I agree with Geoff, Attesa E-TS has a reaction time of 1/100th of a sec, Attesa E-TS Pro has a reaction time of 1/1000th of a sec...but as i said in the other post about this topic....It's all about the sticker baby! even though some people have it on their normal GTR's Seriously though don't base your purchasing of a car on a V-Spec or not, if you find a suitable one and it's a V-Spec think of it as a bonus....it isn't much more.

I bought an aftermarket black carpet for my commodore, and it still looks mint two years later.

Got a picture of what it goes to? Pretty sure it's the stock boost sense line...goes to a little black box mounted just aft of the strut tower? Either that or if it goes intot he cabin will be to an aftermarket boost gauge.

Did all R33's come out with the crappy grey carpet or did some models come with a black one. I only ask this as I know some supras came with black carpet where as others came with grey.....never understood why jap cars have black trim and grey carpets.....so gay!

Gaaaaay! I wanna see it go round a track or down the street

Agreed!! On a more serious note, just look for a GTR that suits you. I couldn't tell the difference between driving a v-spec and a standard one. I think the reaction time of the standard ATTESSA was 1/100th of a sec where as the V-Spec ATTESSA was 1/1000th of a sec. And everyone put aftermarket suspension in anyway so it is hardly worth spending the extra money for that....

Cheapest way to do it, sell the car and buy something that has already been built and is putting out the power figures you are looking for. As you probally already know modifying a car yourself is never cheap.

You get the sticker too, don't forget the sticker