walkoau

Hi guys, I was doing a mod to my tail lights today. After removing the inside black plastic trim and rear door rubber, to my shock i found 3 main points that could creat bad rust if not treated! First point is the top bracket of the tail lights, mine had surface rust so i removed it from the light assembly and used a wire wheel on a grinder to remove all rust. I then cleaned it up, primed and painted. Second point is behind the rear door striker rubbers. The mounting bracket seems to get a small amount of surface rust on the front side of them, but when i removed them there was even more rust behind them and it is in direct contact with the paint. So same as above i removed the rust via a wire wheel, and painted. I also had to lightly sand the body at the bolt up contact point to remove a very same amount of surface rust starting to form on the paint to repair and touch up. (this could turn into a major rust spot if left untreated as its in direct contact with the body, unlike the light bracket which has a rubber washer.) Third point is at the top sill of the rear door/hatch. It appears the compliancer was a bit lazy when fitting the child restraint points in my car as there was metal shavings everywhere under the rubber at the top of the door. after drilling the holes to attach the restraint points they obviously did not vacuum or blow out the steel shaving and just left to sit there they will rust away and cause your paint to get rust spots or worse. I also decided to remove the restraint points to clean under them and there was more shavings under them...... to clean up this area i highly recommend people to remove the restraints and scrap back the silicon under the bolting tab at the top of the sill. clean it all up and refit the restraints with new silicon. Remember you wont be able to see these rust points unless you remove the door rubber and black plastic pieces on the side of the tail lights. I hope this thread will help our cars last longer! For some reason i cant attach the photos (not to big either)??????? if a mod wants me to email the pics to them so they can attach, no probs. Thanks Justin.

Thanks Terry that sounds like its on the right track to what I'm after. Pics would be great. Ant pros/cons on them?

I'm after a boost controller for my m35 but I dont really want to mount a gauge. Can anyone recommend a boost controller with a Digital display (similar to the GFB one) after something reasonably flat and easy to mount. Input is appreciated. Thanks. Justin.

Do you still have these available?

Would you swap for 18" Stagea m35 axis autech rims with near New tyres plus cash your way? Pm me. I need a better offset to fit a big brake kit. Thanks Justin 0411171616.

Craig, Bummer! You put the order in to quick Craig..... Anyway, get me one and pm me payment details and a time when your free to fit the kit. Thanks Justin.

im in for a kit, i will come and pick up and get you to fit it while im there.

Thank you Loach. You are an asset to SAU. it works a treat after your instructions. Thanks Justin.

No alarm/immobilizer yet.

Loach, here is the page with the PDF link. It's the bottom one VE-E1 http://www2.yupiteru.co.jp/manual/manual.html?zaiko=end&brand=&cd=%A5%A8%A5%F3%A5%B8%A5%F3%A5%B9%A5%BF%A1%BC%A5%BF%A1%BC&page_no=2&link=hatubai1 I've tried all scenarios. I fluked it the first time I used it and it worked the once. Battery deff not flat as I can here the unit in the car beep and communicate with the remote control. Thanks in advance for your help.

hi everyone, i recently bought a stagea and found a remote starter in the ashtray. Got it to work once and i cant get it to work again. just wondering if anyone else has one or knows the procedure to use them? i managed to find the manual on line but its obviously in japanese pdf format. its a Yupiteru VE-E1 brand. thanks in advance for any info.

Thanks for your help Scotty.

Hi guys, anyone have a wiring diagram? My heated seats arent working.

Well thornleigh is a bit closer. I'll pm you.

Hi guys, Excuse me for not posting in a while, sold my r34 a few year's back. Anyway I have now purchased a m35 axis autech vq25det. And after my wife picked it up from the importer, I took it for a run..... And I'm not happy. On idle it seem like it has a miss and real slow and lacking power at low rpms.... Say after 3500rpm it seems good. I'm taking it to the importers mechanic on Monday so they can fix it under warranty, but just wondering of anyone else has had a problem like this and if anyone has ideas on possible causes. It's a drama to take it to the mechanic (over 1.5 hours away), and im stuffed with out a car if they need it over night or for a couple of days. Btw.... The check engine light has not come on. And its gone through half a tank of 98 octane fuel in only 140kms. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Justin.

hi No never ended up finding any, do you need one? i still have one good one in the garage somewhere. i ended up getting the bumper bar plastic welded where the driving light used to be, still think it looked better with the lights though. Thanks Justin

no sorry turbo sold turbo heat shield sold wastegate actuator sold r33 injectors sold r34 fuel rail+injectors sold turbo rubber intake tube sold

yes its still available, as stated its good for the tcs motor only, the round pipe section has been cut. Thanks Justin

hi guys & girls i have the following for sale. preffer pick up, but i can send if its worth it to you. r34 triple gauge cluster (gauges only, no surround cover) used condition $40 r34 fuel pressure regulator. used condition $10 r34 traction control throttle body (only good for tcs motor, body is hacked up) $10 r34 air flow meter (pink sticker, good for pod filter only as square section has been cut off) used $50 r34 timing cover used $30 r34 stock turbo (only good for housings front +rear...no shaft/blades) $30 r34 stock rubber intake tube. used. $10 R34 turbo heat sheild. used. $10 r34 wastegate modified braket. used. $10 r34 stock fuel rail and injectors. used. $90 r34 amber front blinkers. used. $20 r34 amber side blinkers. used. $10 r34 bare intake plenum top and bottom sections. used. $100 r33 6 stock injectors (one missing the plastic at bottom, see pic). used. $40 r33 amber side blinkers. used. $10 pick up is Dharruk just near rootyhill i need this stuff gone, if not sold here it will be put on ebay, so all offers considered. Justin 0408 589 335

are you talking about air flow meter or throttle body? if afm NO you will have to increase the size of your intercooler pipes (or get silicon adaptors to suit the bigger size) if throttle body NO you will have to get an adaptor unles you have an aftermarket plenum chamber, greddy plenum for example. thanks Justin

yeah thats right. i took the pic on richmond road. thanks Justin

hi guys thought i would post these pics up to give you all a laugh. i capture the pic on the way to work one morning. 1. that is one stupidly tall looking wing..... 2. the most dangerous load ive ever seen, this guy way carrying one trailer on top of the other trailer while it was only tied down at one point. the top trailer was tied at the main coupling (towball) joint using very thin rope tied down to the main trailers tow ball latch. thanks Justin

thanks champion thats exactly what i needed.

that was the first fuse panel i checked. all the fuses where ok. but ill check again now that i know the translation. thanks.

hi guys. anyone know which port the boost signal line goes on to on the solenoid? and which port is then connected to the wastegate? port# 1 or 2. im not sure if it matters but just want to double check. maybe some one has a diagram they can scan and post up? thanks Justin