MikeR34GTT

Just purchased an X-Force 3" Catback system and received a gutted cat with the lot, but pre-purchased a Venom 5" cat. Still in good nick, nothing a bit of polish and 0000 steel wool wouldn't do. Unsure of price, was just going to call it a straight $50 and can post to wherever, or pickup if you find ourself out in the sticks (Traralgon, Vic)

p.s I digress, will go with an EBC.

Drove a BMW before I got the GTT.... never again. Oh hey, I don't suppose you hardcore SAU blokes have any inside knowledge on anyone trying to get rid of a catback system? Trying all avenues here, have posted on sale section also. Can't blame a guy for trying right?

Not all heroes wear capes So y'all reckon between 200-250 is a good time to start looking at a transplant? How common are low k's DETNEO's though...

Stage 3 sorry, my bad. Amen to that! Wasn't sure if most skyline owners bothered anymore with them once they get to a certain mileage and I love my car to death so I kinda never want to see her go haha.

Great advice/feedback also. Love this place.

You guys tho. l can see myself starting on stage 2 mods by the end of the year -_- Whilst I've got your attention.. do you think a car is not worth modding once it's past certain k's. I'm sitting just over 160,000k now and starting to have a think long term.

Wasn't sure if there was a right or wrong here at first, definitely difference of opinion obviously. Just figured spend the money, the other mods I have planned should still have the EBC doing its job/paying for itself On that, I'll need NIStune to tune stock ecu on my GTT right?

Interesting.. you're probably right. My boost gauge (aftermarket) glimpses on 9 sometimes. Not sure how accurate that is but I guess after the exhaust and CAI I might just be able to get there. Also have a FMIC to go in also.

Gents! Have done my reading into achieving a little more boost in line with the modifications I have already + plan for and was reccomended a boost controller (EBC at that) and to keep it at around 10psi which is what I'm aiming for. R34 GTT on stock turbo (how I'd like to keep it) and exhaust but this will be my next updated - upgraded coils with Splitfires and added Apexi Power Intake with shield & planning a CAI this weekend. Are there any other mods I should be looking at prior to getting into this and everyone's preferred EBC? Suggested an AVCR but I see these go for 600+ and then I see different brands go from 200+ all the way to the simple bleed valves which I've been deterred against and trying to find a R32 actuator is pretty tough.

Still got the coilovers?

I'm gonna dig this one up again guys. Interesting af thread, read this for a solid hour or so. Reason is, I'm still making all my stage 1 mods with a turboback system next in-line, having done my intake with a Apexi PI & CAI/Box and upgraded my coils with Splitfires. I picked up an intercooler from a guy in Geelong and was deadset on installing it this weekend but after a bit of a read it sounds like it may not be the best idea right now? Running stock boost, haven't had it tuned since I became owner (and to be honest, don't know where to have that done where I live)

Stock boost sensor, got it. I'll try run a new hose to this, not real fussed as the stock gauge was rubbish anyway but would be nice to still have it functional (somewhat)

Yeah, that think vacuum hose just behind that fluid tank, that runs underneath and up into whatever that oval-like thing is with SAE written on it. Just wanted to know if I could pull that unit out and replace the stock hose with my silicone and replace that unit, just wasn't sure what it was

Gents, just wondering what the hell this thing is. I had a mate help me install an aftermarket boost gauge, whilst I was doing electronics, he t'd into a vacuum line and it was working great. Not long after, noticed my vacuum sits at about -6 now and found the leak - stock hose split on either side of the T piece. Replaced stock split hose that runs to the manifold with the blue silicone tubing which has been great, the other side that is split is connected to something in the upper left corner of the engine bay I can't quite see and was wondering if I could also replace this hose with my silicone tubing. The clear tubing runs to the gauge.

Yeah a new rad and thermo is definitely on the list. I think I'll just stick with the standard thermostat. Also tee'd up to buy an intercooler off of someone on SAU today, will this be beneficial towards this, or worse? If my rad isn't cutting it, I think worse

Still sitting on this one boys, but really need a system soon. My GTT sounds so.. stock ): Reckon this would work for me based on the above: http://justjap.com/engine/exhaust/exhaust-systems/jjr/jjr-hyperflow-complete-exhaust-system-nissan-skyline-ecr33-rb25det.html Or better to go into an exhaust shop and get their two bobs?

Far by the beat advice I've received to date on any post I've made. Only mods I've made are a currently unshielded pod Apexi power intake and Splitfire coils, so I'm leaning towards the thermostat or just the radiator in general. I know the pump was replaced at 100k, and I'm almost at 160k, so should still be good. Been advised to hell and back as you can see to replace the radiator so was going to do the thermostat at the same time, but if it isn't the radiator, is it really worth upgrading I.e if it ain't broke don't fix it

Yeah pretty awesome. My whole misfire saga was a nightmare but they really saved my life, so much better performance-wise. Will gap my plugs down to 0.8 and report back. Guessing it's the battery also but process of elimination will get me there in the end. Cheers for the pointers guys

Bit of an update: cruising home, around 28, driver beside me on the highway being a bit of a tool, overtaking me and matching speed so I peg it in front of him, take it to 170. Shortly after my water temp again went up to the high line. I dunno why, but I figured if it's thermostat related, I'll crank on the heater on full. Sure enough it started to drop eventual to the halfway mark. Can someone explain why or just a coincidence?

When I installed the Splitfires, so say.. 1 month ago maybe.

Back to 0.8 you reckon or? Just a lot of work for me to get to those plugs (I'm novice), great practice though! Didn't even think of the battery.. can an old battery really have that kind of impact? I just figured it'd be drawing more current from the alternator and not affect the actual spark

Was hoping to find useful info or jack someone else's related thread before I made this but no luck so here goes: Was having terrible misfires awhile back on my GTT, had it diagnosed and replaced the coils with Splitfires and also replaced the plugs and the misfire problem has gone. Which is awesome. My question is, I barely had an instant ignition when I turned the car over, 1-2/3 chugs before it ticked over before I had splits. When I first popped the splits in, BAM, first go, which was an awesome feeling. Now I'm back to the 2 to 3 chugs, rarely ever getting that unicorn-like first turn instant ignition feeling. Would it be worth gapping the plugs back down (0.8 before problem, 1.1 once the splits went in, using Copper NGKBCPxxES-11 or whatever) to 0.8 again or could this be attributed to something else?

Interested in that FMIC, been window shopping on JustJap for awhile now haha

I suppose they weren't really tailor made for the Australian climate huh. All in all, SAU has taught me that buying parts from eBay is a bad time, apart from radiators? If anyone can reccomended a decent one, doesn't need to be race quality, that'd be cool (pun intended!). I had Splitfires basically forced down my throat when I was looking at coils and that turned out really well so I trust you guys, you hear.