sixmassive

I have a OS Giken 1, 2, 3, 5 gearset in my GTR trans, and 4th synchro is going bad. Edit: synchros are OEM. any advice would be helpful. Cant find much here in the states thanks

its just the front right that screaches. but only on a normal stop. Hard stop its quiet. I'm gonna take the wheel off and check the shims again.

Update: Installed Ferodo DS2500 front pads, Stoptech Rear Rotors & hawk pads. Have not hit the track, or gotten too agressive on them yet. my front right Screaches like hell on a slow stop. But they do bite. I am waiting for a new set of rotors for the front. Car is not slammed, tires dont tuck. I have the pineapples installed, so the lowered to be geographically correct. HICAS is locked out. Alignment is -1.1 all around

Got some Stoptech rotors on the way, and Hawk HP Plus Pads. Ferodos are hard to come by here. Any options other than EBC for the KSport 8pot fronts?

gotcha. Thats pretty much what i've done any time its flicked on.

I guess i should have elaborated a little more. Sorry I got the basics of it, but read that it doesn't switch the R33 to 2wd only? Also, if the switch is accidently switched when driving, and i switch it back to 4wd, the 4wd light stays on. Is it not switching back to 4wd?

One of these torque spilt controllers is mounted in my R33 GTR. I cant find any info on it, and it only has an email address printed on it. Its hooked up, flip it to 2wd and the 4wd light comes on. Have not seen any differences in torque split when i turn the knob. Have not really messed with it much Any experience with this particular model? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34/111837972825?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620075055%26meid%3D992dadac13ff47a1ba263b3eb8e6034b%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D111687685075 Thanks

Thanks for all the info guys I sourced some DS2500s front and back, but they are about 20% more than others. But i didn't get into cars because it was cheap Rear rotors? Project mu are so far the only ones, other than EBCs

EBC no bueno? what about front

here are my options for stock replacement Front Pads; Ebc DP4006 Yellow Pads for rear Project Mu B-type EBC Red stuff or endless pads Project Mu Slotted rotors

car is all GTR I'll price out some rotors and pads. and see where i end up. Wont be able to run the car for a bit, at work on the rigs for another 2 weeks, then have a shoulder surgery that will slow me down for a few weeks.

Hey guys, So the Pads are the stock K-sport pads that came with the kit. Rear pads are nissan pads. Did not have the problem before the K-sports, but i couldn't brake nearly as had with the stocks vs k-sport. Nothing has changed since then. I like the idea of logging braking distances while changing the shock rebound/compression, and will try that. I really think its just that i am unloading the rear with such large brakes on the front. Feels like when i raced bikes; between using the back brake, and not touching it at all.

Data log my brake line pressures? What type of equipment can monitor that?

Roy, Great points. V28; No i dont have the stocks but if i really needed to, i can borrow a set. I have JRZ RS Coilovers, and set to 4, lowered, but not slammed, with the "pineapple" as well refer to them over here. I'm running RE11 265s on all 4 corners. I street drive that same setup. Camber is not set aggressive. I leave my Attessa to stock setting. I suppose i could add some negative camber, but i dont know how that would help with my braking.

Spoke with AP. Their R35 front brake kit will fit the R33, but the hub mounts must be drilled out to 14mm from 12mm. If fitted with their rear kit, he said braking bias will be "Natural"

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly. The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

Checked out the Evo kit. Looks like the rear would definitely improve. The Front though, i don't know how much it would improve. But for how cheap it is, it may be a viable option to at least try.

Sent Alcon a message a bit ago. For Another 200 bucks and i could have a Brembo kit, or save 200 and have an AP kit. Also send wilwood a message. I saw a thread about them converting evo calipers, but i skimmed over it. I'll give it a closer read in a sec.

I've looked at the stoptech stuff. I haven't ruled them out. I am awaiting a response from them on a kit. From what I've read online, it seem the consensus is that they are superior to my k-sports, but rank below AP & Brembo.

EDIT: the R35 brakes would be CBA, AP Rotors and Mu pads

Bob, I have a GTR33, Single Precision 6466, 544kw to the wheels on E85. So stopping on the street is just as important as stopping on the track. The rears are the stock brembos. Thanks Peter, I've been searching threads, and most of them have been hijacked or whored out, making it tough to sort out the useful information. My car is full interior, no roll cage, no CF parts to lighten it up. R35 Brakes are on the Z-Tune Clubman, and seems to work well, but is the second most expensive option (Brembo GT-R series are $$$$).

Looking to upgrade my Brakes. K-Sport Front, and stock rear. My K-sports haven't had a hiccup yet, but they are not balanced well with my rear. I've been doing alot more track days, and between my tires getting loose, and the sketchy rear swaying, I've decided to look at upgrades. I am just starting to get into understanding brake balancing, and design, so please forgive my ignorance. First choice would be to get a decent set of rear brakes (AP or Brembo), and upgrade the fronts at a later date. Option 2 would be to go to the AP full front and rear. Option 3 is Brembo GT front and rear Option 4 is R35 In regards to the AP kits, the larger diameter rotor option is cheaper, and the smaller, but thicker rotor is more expensive. Is this the same kit, just the thicker rotor is more expensive? My obvious reaction would be that the larger diameter has more braking power. The brembo kits have the same size rotors, but the prices are different. I cant seem to find out why. In regards to the R35, how would the above compare? And other than the price of the brackets, why hasn't it become more popular on R32-33-34? thanks!

Google USA and Skyline.

RE11s

just have to decide on gold or bronze, CE 28 or TE37