VLSteve

How much for the nismo pivot ball?

Its very easy to do. All wiring info can be found on the R31 forum/wiki, but you will have to play around with the alterator/starter/battery loom. Use the RB25 alternator You can either use the Rb25 power steering pump and have custom lines made, or use a VL S1 pump and lines. It bolts up, but you need a small spacer made up for the top bolt that goes into the head. Also the VCT oil return line needs to be slighty bent around it. VLT manual tail shaft (or VL NA manual shaft with R33 yoke) VL engine mounts and manual gearbox crossmember- Skyline rubber mount is the same as a VL one. VLT exhaust nearly fits, engine pipe just needs to be cut and rotated slightly. Use VL radiator, RB25 top hose, VL bottom hose, VL heater hoses. For the speedo, go to nissan and find one for a Navara (look on www.calaisturbo.com.au for part number) speedo will be correct for 3.45 diff gears. Standard VL fuel pumps are fine if using stock injectors/turbo/ecu setup, even when running 10psi. (no matter what anyone says, VL NA/Turbo external pumps all flow the same, even though some part numbers are different) Then you just need and intercooler and piping. That might be about it...

Any more details of head?

I am getting a bit of oil through my cooler piping etc as its running the stock breather hoses off the rocker covers. Will look at a catch can. Btw motor is out of the car at the moment, hence why I'm thinking of pulling the head to do the restrictors...

Hello all. I've searched but havent found the answer I'm looking for.... My motor is a Stock S2 RB25DET, standard bottom end and oil pump. But has Tomei Poncams and Hi flow OP6 turbo. Its only street driven but with occasional drags. What restrictors should I fit. SK has said Leave VCT, block center and 1.5mm for rear. From my searching I have found that the standard RB25DET restrictors are already 1.5mm. So all I need to do is block the center one? Or is there no point in even removing the head to just to block off one restrictor with a stock motor? Cheers

Yep - on one of my motors (a while before I started this thread), I just used a straight bit of hose that had the right I/D and same length and it bent into shape when everything went back together and it has been fine since. 2nd motor, I was able to buy it from Nissan using the above part number, but I have no idea if they're still available.

Well I've done a few clutches before and never came across anything like it, so didnt really think to measure everything up, it all looked ok to me lol

well thats the only explanation I've got at the moment. I'm going to have to wait until later this week when I get around to pulling the box off again. xtreme reckon they sent the right clutch to the shop I bought it from, but the part number their website catalogue shows isnt the same as what was given to me...

well it seems i've even been sold the wrong clutch- ended up with one for an RB30E VL / R31 so the throwout bearing or pressure plate are probably wrong size for an rb25det gearbox and thats whats causing my problem also means ive gotta take the f**ken box out again

Also its hard to get into gear when the car is running, and if I start the car in 1st with my foot on the clutch the car creeps forward

I can push it in really easy, only feel some pressure when the pedal is just about on the floor. No air in the system and no leaks. It previously had the stock standard nissan clutch

Hi all, I've got an RB25DET in my car, and I just replaced the clutch with an xtreme organic HD. Flywheel was machined, and I also replaced the throwout bearing which came with the kit. When I put my foot on the clutch pedal theres almost no feeling. Master cylinder adjuster has been turned all the way out. I've even bled the clutch, but I shouldnt have needed to as I didnt disconnect the hydralic line! I'm guessing I might have to pull the box back out, but I checked everything when it went together so I dont know what would be wrong? Looking through the dust boot that sits over the throwout fork, the clip is still sitting over the pivot ball ok. I even swapped the master and slave from my other car to see if it would make any difference Any suggestions?

Just thought I'd update this thread with some part numbers for anyone else looking to replace their hoses......... Compare the letter to the attached image - A – There can be 2 part numbers for this. Series 1 / early S2 have an ‘S’ shaped hose as shown in the pic, Later Series 2 have a 90 degree hose. Series 1 p/n is 14056-75T16. Series 2 p/n is 14056-17U00 B – 14056-75T21 C – 14056-21U10 D – 14056-75T10 E – 14056-21U20 F – 14056-21U00 G – 21307-21U20 H – 21307-21U15 90 degree hose for Turbo coolant return at the back of the head is 14055-21U00

Cataby has a Caltex, but I think there's only 95 octane. Same with the Liberty servo. Liberty fuel prices are pretty decent, sometimes cheaper than Perth. I've used it many times and runs ok I can do over 550 in my Calais which has an RB25DET... std ecu, 10psi. Refueled around then because I wasnt sure when the next stop was comming up.

Guy in a Dark (black?) R33 at Perth Brake Parts today talking to me about my RB25 Calais and his VN V8.

location?

I'd go for an RB25 oil pump...

Ah I searched for coolant hose replacement and the diagram popped up in a couple of threads

Yep and Nissan will cost you over $400 - I just ordered a whole bunch

Yeah I found the diagrams you posted, took a printout to Nissan and ordered them all for about $433, I just use the VL radiator and heater hoses though... Less headaches for sure buying from Nissan, I just thought a company such as Gates would have brought out a kit!! Cheers

A while ago I replaced a head on an RB30, and while the head was off I flushed the block with white spirits. Motor still runs fine today. But of course it may be a different story if its been sitting around for a while full of milk - if you havent had a look at the bores

anyone?

Are you using a VL pump or an R33 pump? If you stick with the VL pump (series 1) and lines, you wont need custom hoses made up

Hi all, I've done some searching and found a few (fairly old) threads some showing diagrams listing all the coolant hoses for the RB25 - but to replace them all with new genuine Nissan hoses it will cost about $400. (I replaced them all once on one of my old RB25's!) Does anyone know of an aftermarket kit that does the job - say one made by Gates? I do realise some of the hoses can be replaced by generic bits of hose, but some of the trickier bends are too hard to replicate... Surely I'm not the only person thats come across this issue? And surely I'm not the only tight arse around here!

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