Kustom20

if you have no luck with someone having a second hand item, AEM or Innovate are pretty good we ordered a ProSport Wideband and tested inline with the AEM and Innovate and all seemed very well. For the price we paid I think was about $220 and was only for testing purposes to see the quality and efficiency - definitely well up there and has multiple LED Colors and warnings that you can preset. Comes with everything - we ordered it direct from Taiwan Gauge - with mounting brackets and Pod Controller Bosch o2 with nut to weld in before your Cat all cables from o2 which are well and truely long enough, water proof plugs for the outside connections. Loom form the Controller to Power, Acc, Ground etc Loom from Gauge to Controller Loom to go to the Wideband for ECU - Power FC etc for tuning the Innovate and AEM from memory we paid roughly $300 All the best and hope you find one.

Just thought I would update this post, my younger brother is putting together a skid car with some new fresh paint. He thought he would get a bit creative with the 3M fine line tape on yes thats right my Skyline. We are painting his skid car in Silver Base, 375 micron Metal Flake, Taped off the silver flames still undecided on graphic or airbrush - but either way he has the DNA Silver Holo Flake and DNA Candy Red. So he gets there and starts to tape flames on my Skyline and the next day I came in to see green lines on my car. Around lunchtime that day he walks around the corner and say's you better come check the graphics on your car with a weird look on his face. When I walked around the corner here are all these lines where the Tape had removed the top coat all the way back to primer. LMAO - i think he wasnt sure what my reaction would be - hey its only paint. Bonnet roof and boot are ready to go all primed - affected tape area's have been fixed - I noticed that the previous prep work was the issue with the paint just ripping off with the tape. The primer had a shiny finish and I believe who ever painted this vehicle prior had maybe wet and dried the roof and bonnet to a shiny finish with maybe 1000grit or higher - there was definitely no chemical or mechanical adhesion with the top coat - it was pretty much just sitting there all these years. All top coat on the bonnet and roof has been removed back to primer - and have performed a cross hatch test to see if the primer has adequate adhesion. Its funny that the roof and bonnet on the vehicle had been originally resprayed and an absolute crap job, still looked ok and shined and blended with the rest of the car, but noticed slight paint edges on the rubbers where it was taped off. The factory paint was still in pristine condition. Makes for an easy respray when the vehicle is so straight as well. So looks like now I am full respray on my car. I already have the 2K Primer, and Clear over Base ready to go. I have chosen the standard QM1 color white and had them alter it slightly, I am also applying White Pearl Metal Flakes over base coat then White Silver Pearl on top followed by liquid glass diamond clear. Should provide something better than just standard white little sparkle not too much and a slight darker shade like a silver/white and bright on the edges that are hitting the light more. Inspired stripe color by this Matte White Ferarri - I love this car, with regards to the website hosting the images http://gtspirit.com/2015/10/05/matte-white-ferrari-458-speciale-with-redblack-stripes/ Stripe sizes still undecided - when the Flake arrives we will be painting about 27 test cards with the different coating thickness to see how many Coats of flakes and pearls. Black stripes and not yet sure if we will use the red flake on top or choose for a candy over chrome system to give it that anodized look with flat or choose for gloss. Car will be gloss finish not flat white or flat clears like the Ferrari - even though they look pretty amazing on certain cars. Its unique when custom painting and choosing colors and graphic or air brush etc, you start to think will it look good or crap. But the main thing is test test test then go with it as long as it makes you happy and I like it thats all that matters. Like they say in the custom world you are only limited by your imagination So looks like the second Dyno appointment can wait for another couple of weeks.

Hi All, I wanted to share this very small post, if it helps out one person then that makes it all worth it. This is how I removed the rear quarter windows from my R33 today. 1. Remove inside plastics as in the photo Seat Belt will also need to be un-bolted at the top of the pillar only. Rear upper plastics - leave the seat belt and just un-clip them and sit them along the back seat Quarter Trims I also left them connected to the seat belt and just pulled the seat belt out so I could also sit them on the back seat. 2. Remove outer plastic pillar cover 3. With the material needed to cut the urethane/window sealant - I used a piece of 0.9mm mig wire - roughly 600mm long, you can use guitar strings or something that is strong enough with a coarse edge to help cut the sealant - but be careful if you need to preserve your paint - I didnt mark any of the paint work today with the smooth Mig Wire Next start by pushing the mig wire into the urethane at bottom corner as in the image When you have is started into the urethane - get a pair of pointy or flat pliers and push the wire through with them, so the wire doesnt bend I pushed roughly 5mm at a time - which provides some form of strength in the wire and doesnt allow it to bend. When you have the wire through - you want to pull it through until it is basically half of the length of the wire - this will allow enough material on both ends to connect the special handles. 4. Next find something that you can connect as handles - can be dowel like broom handle, anything you can twirl the wire and have good hand grip. I used 2 rubber handled screw drivers - see in image this was after I removed one window. 5. Now you have the wire through and 2 secure handles to hold on to you need to start by holding both by cutting the urethane in the direction you want, I started by going upwards first, from bottom to top corner. Its very important to always have pressure pushing away from the window towards the inside of the vehicle - you dont want to be cutting and have the pressure against the window - or you could potentially break it. In some spots I also got caught up slightly on the inner sheet metal tabs - easily averted by changing the direction of the cut slightly There are also 2 plastic tabs, one is a locating tab and another is a clip with locking tabs - but the wont be a problem because this is the corner you should finish at. See in image below - I cut from bottom to top, then I cut from top to the back of the car, then I brought the wire all the way back around and cut from the bottom to the back of the car finishing at the plastic clip - use a small flat screwdriver to help move the mould out a bit to get the wire behind it for cutting towards the back of the car. When you get this far inside the vehicle you can press the clip together to release the pressure - I also used a knife for the last bit of urethane near the clip - maybe didnt need to use the knife but I didnt want to pull on the last bit of urethane and break the corner of the window. See in image - directions marked 1,2,3 6. And thats all there is to it - remove old urethane on glass and vehicle, clean with wax and grease remover to ensure a good clean seal, apply new urethane and refit the glass with the locating lug and plastic clip. You will know if you dont have enough urethane applied when refitting you should have some slightly press out when it seals, too much and it will be harder to press into place and you will have excess amounts oozing out. Up to you but you can smooth out with detergent or cut excess of with a blade when it is dry.

Yeah we can do the RB26 ornament with any design you like, Backing will have 3m VHB high bond Double Sided Tape if you PM your sketch, design, idea, image, text etc - I can put together some designs for you to look at, Material Preference: Aluminium, Carbon Fibre etc Finish Type: Machine, Flat, Polished or Painted in any color code provided. Color Inlay: Whether you want resin color in certain area's - Color Choice Cheers

Hi Guys, I wanted to share this thread on here even though the badges in the images are Holden and Ford, we are currently manufacturing some others and hopefully get some pics up for you. Working with 5 axis CNC Mill full 3d type badges or many things Below are 2 images of some recent ones Ford badge the customer wanted the parallel tool path lines across the bottom face, then we had the trace tool path around the inside edge to give it a diamond swirl look when polished. Outer edge smooth finish. Second badge is for a friend's Green VL Commodore LS1 Burnout car - entered in the 2016 Summernats - Car name GUNJA - will also be at UBC Ballarat this weekend. In this image we have shown the same as first - 3D drawing to cutting then complete product, we cut 2 - 1 for each side of the vehicle and have shown before polish mill finished and semi polish - just waiting for more cut compound to arrive. Anything you can think of with a badge we can pretty much incorporate into the design. Limited by imagination Custom badges for tuned specific vehicles - Cutting this badge next and will post the detail of the Turbo when completed We have another badge that is almost complete on the design - but I cant post it on here yet, the idea is Holden Ring with Lion Head only, Blown V8, Vehicle Name - for a Meth Blown Burnout Car, summernats entrant this year, it looks pretty amazing Even fully polished or flat type resin filled - with full clear resin or even some candy color in resin to make the badge have depth and pop Send us your idea's and we can fab something - once you are happy with the draft and approve for cut we can get it done reasonably fast. Obviously design and setup is the time consuming part but once the material is set cut time is usually quick for small jobs. We are also cutting 3d designs into alloy rocker covers If there is something you need manufactured in Billet,Plastic,Nylon,Brass,Alloy send us a message with the part needed and we will advise best alternative. If you have the 3d drawing or 2d Cad drawing even better - if you only have a drawing on Paint or even a piece of paper with pencil dimensions we can CAD it then CAM it for you. If any of you can assist with other forums that this can be posted on let me know - it would be much appreciated if you could share this link with friends and on forums for us, we can look after you with costing for those who help share this. Tig Welding also in house Cheers all

Hey Champ, been a bit busy and just need to book back in at Chequered - I'm hoping in the next 2 weeks. Will definitely post the results when done.

Thanks Amir - all the best

Yeah its the worst place to work on under the manifold and ya have to love those factory hose clamps sometimes. Excellent hope it goes well and we can see some posts when you get the problem sorted. Enjoy your new year.

Hi Guys, we got some tickets and noticed another seller has 2 available at an excellent cost. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1099436877 Cheers

No Probs glad I could help - if your in need of a full scale R33 Skyline for paint would gladly let you test with a nice fresh coat hah

Just wanted to post this - have you tested the cold start valve for operation? I am pretty sure its function opposite to a thermostat so it works with cold temperature the colder it is the wider it opens. Test its function and also clean it out - double check no splits in the hoses that run from each side of it as well. Some people warm them up then put them in a freezer or fridge for function - like boiling a thermostat

Added above I think we posted almost close to the same time. Have fun and enjoy the new year.

Just thought I would add this for anyone looking for them for spray testing http://stores.ebay.com.au/Grubz-Customz?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Hope this is what your after Enjoy

Hi, I just seen your post - I am pretty sure these are the - House Of Kolor Chips or Speed Shapes they wanted to design a 3dimensional color chip rather than standard flat chips like most companies use. This allows as you would know the shimrin pearls chamelion and so on to really stand out and you dont need to move a flat panel around in the light to get your attention. Hope this helps

Hi, was wondering if you have this part available - switches not needed just the surround if you do can you PM and I will reply

Hi All, I am looking for 1 or 2 Platinum Pass or Platinum Buddy Entrant Pass tickets for some friends for Summernats 29 - if you know anyone who has the platinum tickets and is not going anymore can you please PM me the contact details. I also have a listing on Gumtree and have also contacted a Gumtree member - they have 2 tickets but have advised someone is collecting them today at 1:30pm - they advised if the people dont collect them they will contact me It would be much appreciated if you could take 5 minutes or all day to find some tickets for my friends to join the show with platinum entry rather than general admis. You would make them so happy we could even youtube the reaction if we told them we found tickets Thanks

Do you have your tuners contact number for after hours always make sure you have mobile contact so you can text them or what ever - ask him what he set it on when he tuned the car. Remember this base setting will coincide with your ignition map right through the rev range. So if it was 14 below and your tuner has that mapping at 14 and you have it at 15 then the mapping will be out by 1deg which in turn would affect AFR as the fuel mixture has been tuned with the ignition map and fuel map - TPS and MAF Also did the tuner change the position of the TPS and mark it when he had it set to the correct position - some tuners will just move them into place an extensive tuner will tick all boxes. You could see if it has moved or wasnt done up tight - or check the Closed Throttle and WOT voltage - even just turning the screws on the TPS can cause it to move As for your plugs I wouldn't go more than 0.8mm To save yourself from pulling your hair out and getting frustrated with the car - I would definitely contact this guy and query him on the issue like XGTRX said - ask him what he had it set on - contact this guy and bug the hell out of him until he fixes the issue. Call him and post what he recommends We could sit here typing all the problems we think it could be but it could be as simple as moving something or tightening a pipe because its loose while you still getting boost but extra air after the AFM - remember the vehicle only calculates air that has gone through the MAF to calculate fuel - a misfire can even be from too lean fuel mixture right down to timing or spark ignition and so on. Do you know its more frustrating sitting here 1000's of Km's away and not being able to help fix the vehicle as much as we would like - Grrr - I hate helping diagnose via PC message I am more hands on type hah I wish I was closer to Broome I would be more than happy to drive over and perform some testing with you - take some parts off my R33 to put on yours to see if its sensor issue.

Hi Guys, I havent looked around much or made any phone calls regarding this part - just thought I would post here before that, just in case someone has one lying around I need one of these in the below image 1 x Drivers Door Switch Surround - switches are not needed just the surround If you could PM that would be great

Yeah thats the best way - if your confident with the sensors then hopefully the tuner just needs to fix some minor probs and get it all 110% running great and be safe for driving at high loads. Definitely keep the posts coming its great to see issues being fixed for other users to read. And yeah heading up to Sydney next Tuesday then Summernats on way back - live in Vic so Hervey Bay is a fair travel lol

Grey or Blue Smoke = Engine Oil Burning Valve Stem Seals - Turbo Seals - PCV Blocked - Valve Stem Guides - Piston Rings Compression or Leak Wet Test - Compression can also be down from Leaking Valve or Piston Rings - Cam Lobe rounded not allowing valve to open the same as others hence lower comp reading. Checking these with comp test and wet test or leak test will determine which parts are allowing comp leak White Smoke = White smoke (Steam) or water/coolant/antifreeze vapor from the exhaust. normally when water vapor heats up it dissipates and not as noticeable if the vapor stays then there is an issue - for Auto vehicles sometimes the trans fluid can enter the intake on some vehicles through the modulator - this also burns at this color and close to grey color Cracked Head, Cracked Cylinder Block, Head Gasket stuffed between water and cylinder allowing water in and lowering compression - in this case you can see the water movement in the radiator going up and down most times. When your vehicle is running check the radiator water movement - if it goes up and down then head gasket between cylinder and water jackets Check your oil cap for coolant/water/antifreeze what ever you want to call it for signs of milky chocolate looking contaminents on the oil cap or dipstick If its water to oil on the head gasket then obviously the oil cap will be full of milky sludge and eventually the worse it gets you would notice this pretty quickly Black Smoke = Fuel too rich - can be caused from many things just to list a few, injector issue, blocked air cleaner, sensor issue, ignition problem, FPR stuck, Obviously any smoke coming from your exhaust is a sign of something not quite right

Sounds like something was missed on the initial tune - I know some tuners get a bit funny about customers hanging around while they are tuning the vehicle - but all in all its the customers car and paying good money to do the work - I was lucky to ask many questions and pick the right tuner for my current R33 - goes back in the week of January 11th I feel for you though being 2200km away thats insane - you would want to hope the tuner can easily send a file to you or help with your issue. I would check the CAS - some people when they remove these mark them with a paint pen or permanent marker and sometimes they appear to be back at original pos but out slightly - I would advise 3 hairline marks with a scribe this ensures pinpoint accuracy when put back in, or just chuck the light on hoping the tuner hasnt set it to a different position than what the light reads. As for the guys name in Perth I wouldn't publicly display it unless they dont help with the after hours or customer service Do you have access to your Power FC via FC Edit? If you have FC Hako or FC Data Logit if you could PM your tune files - INJ MAP IGN MAP SETTING 1 through to SETTINGS 5 then I could take a look. Either screen shot the pages or send the .dat file

Have you checked the timing. Most times it can be only 3 things air fuel and spark. Unless it has an engine component failing but it would be more constant if it was mechanical Has the CAS been removed after the tune? Has anything been added/changed after the tune? If you have played around with the AAC Valve after the tune was done then it can affect the idle - the tuner would have set this all up on the initial first tune If your timing is out then also the fuel mixture wont be igniting at correct position - maybe just put a timing light to check the timing Also if your tuner has performed 90 percent of the initial tuning and doesn't necessarily need the vehicle back - if he has hit every cell in your mapping and has also done the final power run - depending on how extensive the tune was they usually start with idle 1500 2300 3000 5000 then power runs and varies from tuner to tuner - if all this has been complete then your tuner if you explain to them what is happening then he/she should be able to email the tune file to correct the cold start issue. As long as you have the software and cable to upload to your FC I would be cautious on changing anything after your tune because your tuner should have checked everything - if you could log a file from your FC either in FC edit or Co-pilot or whatever software you use then you could send that to your tuner and he would advise immediately whats wrong. Could be as simple as AAC or TPS or MAF maybe CAS moved slightly or something has moved or come loose which will affect overall performance and AFR's If your tuner wont do this then find another one. All the best and hope you get the issue sorted.

Excellent - happy days cars all tested - systems bled no coolant or oil leaks - test drove for about 20 minutes after vehicle reached operating temp - only issue is the crap vacuum hose Where the Brass fitting is on the rear of the comp housing gets too much heat for the vacuum hose and simply bursts at high boost. Fix: Use heat resistant braided vac hose

I would start with the easier less expensive tests Definitely check those wiring connections - yeah something seems a bit of a miss with your wiring either connections and hopefully no wires are starting to melt and touch if any of the wires or connections on the AFM were cutting in and out then it would definitely cause the car to want to stall - If the AFM has 12v power - Signal - Signal Ground and the main ground wasn't connected the car would still start and simply stall straight away. If there was a bad connection for the main AFM Ground then it could possibly cause it to cut in and out almost to the point of stalling. Just a note that the twin core AFM cable that runs from R33 RB25 ECU to MAF has a metal sheath heat protecting coating as well and the 2 small signal wires that run through this from MAF to ECU if overheated can actually ground through the sheath - I ran continuity tests from ECU from memory on the ECU end the signal cable is a bullet connector - to the ends of the wires on one vehicle and the sheath had actually grounded the signal - didnt cause any damage but just didnt allow the vehicle to keep running - it simply started and stalled - started and stalled - so the continuity test found the signal was actually grounding from ECU to the MAF end of the cable. These are also subjected to heat along the chassis rail/shocker tower area - and in the R33 the the o2 sensor cable also runs in this section of the loom - when ever we get an R33 in we always check this area for heat damage As for the TPS this just sends the ECU the voltage for throttle position should be 0.45v closed throttle or there abouts and up in the high 4.87v for wide open - the IAC is what controls air flow for closed throttle as the butterfly on the throttle is fully closed so the piston in the IAC will move up and down depending on how much air is needed for the vehicle to idle at the RPM setting in ECU The idle control valve simply gets air from before the throttle body. But if the internals are sticking then it could be an issue - even after a carby clean spray just doesnt fix a bad one. If you have a friend who would lend you some parts to test with then you could simply go through each part - AFM IAC TPS etc until you source the issue. If I were close to where you live I would be more than happy to drop in and we could test your parts.

Good to see you got the problem sorted - just thought I would post this reply Welding SS and Ti also needs purging on the rear of the welds to ensure no contaminants are drawn into the weld while cooling - if you get the amps correct and the FZ or freeze zone then you can run a continuous stainless weld and not have the dark grey or carbons being sucked in because it freezes before the shielding gas exits the weld and nice salmon or rainbow welds, Some use a gas lens on the torch which disperses a more even gas shield on the top welds or they will use a trailing purge as well. With the rear of the weld You can either get someone to shield opposed side with a purge tube while you weld, or purge the complete inside tube with end caps and purge hose as argon is heavier than oxygen it will push it out the tubes it you get your setup correct with release holes, some even weld SS and Ti in purge chambers similar to a small sandblast cabinet. As for Ti to SS I wouldn't bother - can be done but the process is very extensive and use a lot of Argon for shield to protect containment I would just stick with SS to SS and Ti to Ti - some of the tig fillers they are making are getting better like the Ally to Steel Welding titanium with other metals presents great difficulties due to embrittlement caused by the formation of intermetallic phases. Numerous tests to join titanium with molybdenum, tantalum, silver and vanadium by the TIG process without filler metal have resulted, with the exception of vanadium and silver and with niobium and hafnium, in welds of limited ductility. Welding steel with titanium is very difficult due to the low solubility of iron in alpha titanium at room temperature. When titanium is welded with steel the intermetallic phases TiFe and TiFe2 form, which are very hard and brittle and prevent the production of technically useable welds. One way to achieve ductile welds of steel and titanium is to use intermediate layers of materials capable of being welded with both titanium and steel, without brittle phases occurring. One such material is vanadium. Titanium/vanadium/steel joints have been produced successfully by resistance spot, electron beam and diffusion welding. In the same way, initial plasma overlay welds using titanium grade 2 and grade 12 on HII boiler plate have been carried out successfully, with intermediate layers of copper. Niobium is suitable for intermediate passes to produce serviceable copper-titanium welds, while silver has proved successful in the production of aluminum/titanium joints. In most cases a loss of strength in the weld must be expected. Slip joints can be annoying but work ok, if you don't need to remove exhaust too often. Another option would have been to either source the flanges either bolt type or v band whichever suited your muffler, if they were not available in Ti off the shelf for your application then either machinist to spin some Ti or a lasercutter to cut the bolt style then you could simply have them tig welded in Ti to suit.