shadow21189

RB25DET strange oil reading Hi all ive encountered a bit of a strange issue in my 33. Ok heres the scenario. Last week started it up to go to work car started ticking like it had no oil so i shut it down and went to check the dipstick to my horror i found it was just under the low sign so i topped it up.. and went on to work. Being parranoid of burning oil i checked the level once i got to work which is a fair distance of about 55km it strangely read above full. Since then ive been monitoring it day by day on the 4th day i noticed it droped to about 3/4 full and by the 6th day in the morning i checked it it was at the low sogn again. I had run out of oil to top up so i head over to the local parts store to buy some more then went home i got distracted and had to do a few things but once they were done i proceeded to check my oil level again to my dissbelive i found the oil level at the full mark. Could i have possibly have a blockage? Have anyone had this issue? Its a 95 s1.5 un opened engine with 150xxxkm all bolt on and suport motor 330kwatw gt3582r no sump mods definently the original dipstick

VERRY DEBATEABLE.. I prefer the viscus fan as the fans clutch operates on a heat sink clock spring. so when it is heated it locks to a degree and spins at the engines speed which in my opinion is optimal with a fan shroud. I have tried twin thermos with a fan shroud and didn't realy notice much difference at all other then the fans switch drawing a bit of extra current which can put a little extra strain on the engines alternator.. though I have tried this in a car primly set up for drift and being a high reving engine at lower speeds found the viscus fan to be much better but if your just spirited street driver if you can put up with the annoying howl of the thermos switching on and of periodicly then I say go with thermos

hi just came across this thread. ive just fixed this issue.. same deal replaced clutch went an extreme single plate button DSB type clutch and had this annoying vibration. I'm a mechanic myself and didn't want to believe that a bras would generate this bit of virbration. luckily for me I have a 4 post hoist at work so threw it up and had a work mate load it up and found my passenger engine mount had broken as well as my driver side had horribly sagged threw 2 new engine mounts in and whala BEAUTIFUL!!! also added an engine steady dampner bar to help prolong the life of the mounts as well direct the engines tourque to the drive line a bit better 100% worth the $$.. well this fixed my issue so perhaps its something you guys should look at good luck =)

Hello everyone. I am sorry to bring up old threads I have a 1996 r33 gtst s1.5 that has as far as I have had it has not had a working RPM tacho. I have searched the forums to no prevail. I might add that the car is powered by an Apexi Power FC if it makes a difference to the issue I'm having. Ok inititally the tacho never worked.. so I went with simplicity and bought another tacho for it which to my frustration didn't fix my issue. so I started dabbling in the forums and followed tutorials. ive tried the re solder/flow method at the back of the tacho which surprisingly mad a minor difference to which I had no working rpm tacho to now the needle jumping up past 9000rpm and staying there and not moving lol. I started getting on the more technical side of things testing earths volts yada yada. I'm getting a good ground and I'm getting 12v across ignition.... Now on to the rpm signal wire. Testing from the back of the TAM pin I got a reading of 0.9 - 1.9v now I for the life of me can not find what range the signal wire is meant to be in no one ever seems to mention it on the threads so I ask is this the range and if its not what is? I also then went back to the ecu on pin out 7 and got the same reading. NOTE! I did use an LED testlight that has an inbuilt volt meter that's how I was getting my readings. My auto electrical knowledge is very basic at the least... so on to my last resort I got and after market 2"rpm gauge just a cheapy from ebay for around 30 bucks to see if that would work and still nothing so now I'm slightly pulling my hair out as the car is ready for the track now and will be hard on th high rpm scale so it would be nice and safe for me if I could get this fixed so if anyone has a souloution or perhaps any advice as to what I may be doing wrong please don't hesitate to mention. and thank you in advance.

Looking to buy r33gtst closer to south western subburbs eg penrith through to parramatta. Looking for a minimum of coil overs added to car have cash waiting

I am look8ng to buy an r33 gtst closer to south western suburbs parra through to penrith. Minimum mods coil overs have cash waiting.