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iamme

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Everything posted by iamme

  1. iamme
    Bit the bullet, spent the money and bought a hicas eliminator kit. Heading on some big travels in a few weeks so trying not to spend money on anything but its satisfying to know Ill have this fixed and never have to worry about it again. Didn't have a ball joint pressing tool so went the way of taking off the hub. Handbrake assembly coming apart here. Tried a bench vice but wouldn't get the ball joint to budge, knocked on the door of an old bloke who seemed to be a mechanic going by the amount of cars on his lawn, and yep, had a press, was willing to help after the contract of beer was made. Ball joint was pressed out, back to mine and got the eliminator kit out of the box. Wasn't keen on the factory purple paint so sprayed it a flat black. Bought one of the cheaper kits, as opposed to the drift works kit, the rubber bushing was one piece, so sawed it in two, in the vice and pressed it in. 18 year old Japanese spider cruising around the world checking shit out 18 year old Japanese spider cruising around the world checking shit out
  2. iamme
    For the life of me I couldn't get the nut loose. Will have to make a trip to the mechanics
  3. iamme
    Just measured with a set of vernier calipers and it seems to be 15mm. Thread pitch seems real small
  4. iamme
    Hey, My R34 GTT has a lock bar fitted, however the thread on the tie rod, going into the lock bar is completely stripped and therefore the lock bar is ineffective. At the moment Im thinking I either try rethread it with I assume a m14, or m15 die, or repalace the inner tie rod all together. At the moment I'm stuck with getting the inner tie rod to come loose. Its got some flat spots to use for adjusting so thats where Im starting, but for the life I me it wont come loose. Is this the right procedure, or is it easier to replace both the tie rod and tie rod end. Although Ive heard even the end can be just as tricky. Keeeeen for any advice Cheers
  5. iamme
    Or sell and put towards new paint
  6. iamme
    So opened it up and it looks like a 2way. Just not sure which one. Guess that would explain the clunk at low speeds around corners lol. As a daily and no engine mods I'm happy with viscous. Anyone seen a similar two way?
  7. iamme
    Headed up to bunnings and talked to a guy that used to work in the auto industry . Bunnings don't sell m10 bolts with 14mm heads. Not that he was aware of anyway. Got some off a mate in the end. New diff is in and it drives so much better. No clunk at all. It was really intense before. Will open it up when I get a chance and see what's going on.
  8. iamme
    Gave in. Got out the angle grinder and murdered those little buttholes. Should have tried the breaker bar spanner. Exactly what I needed. Ah well. Anyway. Now in search for two more bolts. Would the idea be to hit up a nuts and bolts place and match up the ones I still have?
  9. iamme
    Yeah I'll try that. Maybe jack it up higher this time so it has good clearance once on the ground
  10. iamme
    So got a new diff, filled and ready to go in. Getting the old one out is proving to be insanely difficult. I'm stuck on the 4 prop shaft bolts connecting up to the diff. I've managed to get two off. Took about 1.5hrs on each. Literally tried everything. All soaked with WD for a good hour. Jack to apply force to a ring spanner was my best attempt but that didn't seem to get them to budge. The two that did come loose were done with a ring spanner and mallet. Tried for the third but gave up. Probably the best bet now would be a cheap butane blow torch ? Any ideas ?
  11. iamme
    Managed to contact the owner before myself. He said it went through a few people before him but he didn't or hadn't heard of the diff being welded. From what Ive researched it could be a worn pinion gear. So anyway, found what seems to be a good one for cheap, housing and all. Will drop the old own out and open it up for reference sake.
  12. iamme
    the seller does specify its needs to be installed by a professional, i was just supposing that was there way of saying, 'yes, there might be problems and thats why a pro can fix them for you if theyre are'. Just was wanting to see if anyone has already put one of these bars on and if so any potential areas that popped out that might not be able to be fixed at home.
  13. iamme
    Yeah seems like it would be popping out and not flush considering a genuine can go for 700ish.
  14. iamme
    Just wondering if anyone has bought one of these. Seem good for the price, obviously needs paint etc, but just wondering on the fitment?
  15. iamme
    Yeah heaps
  16. iamme
    Hey guys, New to the forum after purchasing an R34 Gt-t. Im hearing some clunking noises coming from the back, so upon further inspection I can see a fair bit of oil and grime primarily around the LHS flange coming out of the diff. The teeth on the outside of the flange seem more worn down compared to the RHS. How do I diagnose if I just have to replace the whole diff, the flange itself or even just seal? Like I said there is a real solid clunk when taking corners, is at its worst at low speed and with a little on the throttle. Could this mean a new diff would be in order? Any advice is appreciated! Thanks
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