thommo458

out of interest these figures people are putting up, are they roller or hub dynos?

Can't be lowered?

I've had a string of cars over the past years (R31 rb25, Aristo, BF turbo ute, FG turbo sedan, VY Maloo, E46 BMW) and finally decided I wanted something turbo and manual again. Ditched the BMW daily and went on the hunt for an R33 with basic mods. Ended up hearing of a particular car for sale, contacted the person as we knew each other ages ago and worked out a deal and a few days later it was mine. Basic plan from here is to get everything running nicely and then progress with modifications piece by piece. Ross' soarer was somewhat inspirational to what I could do to my own car. Aim is to get 400hp on 98 or more on E85 if they put it on the bowser in Myaree 1996 R33 rb25det aka white whale Greddy front mount inter cooler 3 inch exhaust Pod filter Lowered King springs with bilstein shocks Car was in OK condition but tyres were cactus and the air con was not working By pure chance Owen put up some 34 gtr wheels for sale and I snapped them up straight away. Prior to getting a car I was searching to find some gtr seats. Managed to get a 32 passenger and an average condition drivers seat. Only a few days later a get a message from a bloke selling perfect 33 gtr seats came through so I grabbed them too. Sadly once I installed them I found out the recline knob doesn't seem to be able to change the position. If anyone knows the fix, feel free to share. 33 seats came out and the 32 ones are now in while the fixing begins. Next was to hit the air con. Compressor was removed and a new one installed. Took it to get regassed and it's now lovely and cold. The heater was also bypassed which i wasn't sure if that's because the air con was dead and heat was just radiating in the cab, so I've purchased a new heater core and awaiting a new actuator for the air con to be replaced. Dash out job which will be fun. I couldn't really stand that little front body kit addition so decided to take that off, touch up the little rubbing scuffs and put on a universal lower lip just to make it a bit different than the normal front. Washer motor was non existent so I acquired one of those, gave it a tap and that was sorted. Also got some decent wipers online and installed them. Small window chip fixed to prevent window replacement in the near future Power - it was running an rb20 actuator to give you a constant 0.8 bar but it seemed to be losing power after about 5,000rpm. Car was trying and just not gaining power. Decided an empire performance cat would be a good starting point if the stock one was collapsed. Problem was not fixed but flames were installed. Google Google Google and the rich and retarded thread popped up and straight away I knew that was my problem, boost cut. Sourced an rb25 stock actuator and installed. Car now has a solid 0.5bar, less power but it now has a full rev range of power. I do want to remove the rear spoiler but the ones I've seen just don't sit that nice on the boot. Must be China copy of another China copy etc Other items on the list New rockercover and half moon gasket kit (purchased) Apexi power fc with handset and boost controller (purchased) Nismo shifter (purchased) Hicas lock bar (purchased) Gktech shifter bush (purchased) Walbro 460l pump (purchased) Greddy Bov (purchased) Fabricate hard intake pipe Splitfire coils dis-005 (to buy) Z32 afm (to buy) 800cc+ injectors (to buy) More updates and burnouts when running 100%

Found this as im aboutto do a swap on mine http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#35 What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter? When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [sETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow 1. Let engine warm up and idle 2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust. 3a. If you see *some* black smoke -> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible. 3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke -> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [sETTING], [iGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke. 3c. If you don't see any black smoke -> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up. 4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running. Source: Apexi Documentation 80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW) 80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW) 90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW) *Output is calculated off of measurable air volume Airflow Meter Adjustment Range Using 100% as a base, the airflow can be adjusted from +50% (-50%) - 200%

Pm'd AFM Was the plenum fitted?

what are the thickness sizes of the clutch plates currently?

ill take the blue for $150

I'll take that turbosmart bov if you're OK to post it

Is that $400 for both z32?

Anyone else got some tips my 33 Gtr ones won't recline

anymore pics of the 43ss2 available? like the rear etc

be good to see if the boost issue is now fixed

stao, any results on the atr43ss3 ?

interested to see how the turbo goes, not really selling me confidence to also purchase one