gawdzilla
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Everything posted by gawdzilla
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how come that is wrong? i can't tell from the pics, but is the pcv side capped? why is it bad to pull the air through your catch can to the induction of the turbo? the catch can in theory will catch all the oil under boost, which is what you want, no? the setup looks ok to me.. EDIT: nevermind, just looked at the 2nd pic and noticed your catch can is open to the atmosphere. thats not gonna work cuz your turbo will suck in extra unmetered air through that breather filter. take the hose going back to your turbo inlet and put it on the other valve cover. then cap the turbo side and the pcv side.
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T04GTR, you are talking about wideband lamdas, while i am referring to the PFC injector compensation number. thanks for the input. thats exactly what I was asking about. your explanation makes sense to me. btw I do have a wideband that I am inputting into datalogit. I actually just tried out my "new map" with the total compensation set at 0, and my injector map leaned down a lot to compensate for the injectors. .809 ends up being pretty close to 14.7:1 for me. i'll look into the recalc base function and see how that works out. What values are modified by the recalc base? overall injector compensation %age?
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Just wondering if you guys try to keep 1.000 as ~14.7 A/F like the manual says. Reason I ask is because I find that the Injector map number does not always correspond to the correct A/F. I am running 555 nismo injectors, and did the 78.5% overall injector compensation. I found this leaned me out up top, so I bumped up the Injector map numbers. Some are now maxed out at full enrichment (1.496 which should correspond to a ~9 A/F ratio, but it definitely is about 12 A/F), and I want more resolution up top so I can add even more fuel if necessary. My question is, is it common for people to use bigger injectors and keep the OVERALL compensation at say 100%, then lower the entire Injector map so the numbers don't correspond to A/Fs anymore? I am thinking about doing this so I have more resolution in the top. Please no "go to a dyno and get it done" posts, I want to know how its supposed to be done. If i went to a local dyno I would probably still be the one making the changes. I've got wideband, egt, and fc datalogit right now, so any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
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Power Fc Driveablity Problem......
gawdzilla replied to USRB25S13's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i had a very similar problem with this surging effect. mine was pretty pronounced. felt like i was throttling/lifting off the whole time while trying to keep constant throttle. keep an eye on your MAF voltages and see if they are steady when the surging occurs. my voltages jumped around pretty significantly. replaced the maf and everything is ok now. -
Yes, they do... i sent money via paypal. Since they are a registered paypal vendor w/ good feedback, I figure it is safe. Plus, Glen and them aren't scammers or anything according to everyone I've spoken to. They are just slow to act, and customer service could use some work. Whats funny is I got a confirmation email from Glen today saying it is shipping today. However, this is after I filed a complaint/refund request via Paypal (so that I could try and buy from some other vendor). Maybe that made him act faster *shrug*... but the item is on its way so I am satisfied for now. We'll see how it pans out. Sorry guys about the thread jack...
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Has anyone gotten in contact with Glen or or anyone from fcdatalogit recently? I ordered one directly off their website on 11/12, and have heard nothing since...
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does the gauge move around at all when you rev in neutral? it should... is your gauge mechanical or electrical? maybe you've placed the sender in the wrong place. There should be a small piece of alumnium that holds the stock sender, where you can T into. Remove the stock sender and that little alumnium piece. Drill through the alumnium piece and tap it for your new sender. I did this and it worked fine for a mechanical sender. I have gone electrical since then, and replaced mine directly in place of the stock oil pressure sender, because i am not using a skyline gauge cluster. the stock oil press sender was useless to me.
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Using Apexi Pfc To Tune For Atmos. Bov?
gawdzilla replied to gawdzilla's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yea, you can... it just might not run right since the RB motors are pretty finicky about metered air. my runs overly rich bog/backfire when the bov opens. thanks for the input.. was just curious if there was an easy tuning fix. i'll look into recirc solutions too. -
I don't have my datalogit yet, should be coming shortly. I was wondering if its possible to tune the PFC using datalogit's Decel gains so the motor doesn't run overly rich between hard shifts w/ an atmospheric bov? Has anyone done this before or know any more info? Reason I'm asking is b/c I don't have any of the recirc hardware, plus I have a greddy type-R bov. its possible to get some custom recirc piping done, but if its possible to tune out the richness i'd rather save some $$$
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I have wisecos @ 87mm.. i don't really hear the piston slap, and the motor doesn't sound any different once warmed up. My knock gauge on the pfc floats around 0-25 while just driving around normally. No abormal knock value upon startup.. my guess is around 0-10 on the start. haven't gunned it yet on the new motor (no tune)
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Also curious about this... at what Knock value does the pfc trigger the check engine light? I have heard @ 60.. is this true? So anything under 45 is considered "safe" knock? if no, what is a "safe" knock value?? I am seeing some (up to 25) just motoring around.... can anyone give insight on their max knock values (if any) while just driving around normally (off boost)? thanks
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do yo uhave a WB02 with the car? My guess is an initial over richness when you first romp on the pedal. Fuel is getting dumped while there isnt much load yet, or you may just have a flat spot in your map. Try looking at it with a WB02. My motor has the same miss you're talking about at idle occassionaly. Typically its when the motor is wawrmed up. It's like a stutter/miss, and sometimes it even chokes the motor out. I also think this may be do to fuel building up over time in the cylinders at idle, and being too rich. Its either that, or the coil packs on their way out. My MAFs seem to be reading fine via pfc. I'll update on it once my WB comes in and i check that out.
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bump, could use some more input, thanks.
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you sure about that? last i checked they were 3 wire, heated o2 sensors. basically what you need to do is first pop out that stupid bung adapter in your dump tubes. the GTR uses some funny sized small o2 sensors with a bung adapter. Once thats gone, basically any 3 wire o2 sensor will go in there. You can use z32, early 90s mustang v8, etc. etc. splice up the wires (+ and - for the heater no polarity), and one wire for the sensor signal. thats it
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cool, that is somewhat reassuring. My motor is doing exactly that.. stupidly rich. So you guys think it is ok to very conservatively lean it out (just enough to get into closed loop and avoid bogging/stalling) just to get to the dyno? Next question: If it is, what would be the best way to go about it? 1) perform the rough % injector reduction 2) perform the rough % AFM voltage reduction 2a) What exactly is the effect of doing this? will it move me closer to rpm 1, load 1 of the map tracer? Are only injectors affected by this change, or both injectors and timing? 3) modify and lower the first say... 10x10 of the injector map 4) modify timing? not sure on this one.. more advanced?? Thanks a lot for the pointers guys.
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yes, it just might help. In THEORY, if i were to select a lower lag time, my total injector opening would be less, thus less fueling and leaner. According to the tomei website, 555cc injectors are .61ms lag vs the stock .77ms. I have had my injectors flowed and cleaned, and they vary a bit from 555cc, mostly around 560. I will put them in exactly and see how it goes. My guess is still rich though. I had to lean it out a lot more than that just to get into closed loop.
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Thanks for the input. Here are some replies.. I'll do a search on that, thanks. I saw a .73mS somewhere, but wasn't sure if it was correct. EDIT: according to the TOMEI website, the Denso 555cc pink tops (identical to Nismo's 555cc top feed pink tops) are .61 ms lag. I will dial that in... so .61-.772 (stock) = -.16mS i did find contradicting info here though... anyone want to clarify??http://gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=26406 Accordding to the FSM, priming and idling w/o vacuum to the FPR is supposed to be 43 psi. 36 psi is with the vacuum hose ATTACHED to the FPR on idle. Both of those settings are correct on my motor. I've dialed in the fuel press to 43 psi, and the running psi with vacuum is ~36psi. Yes, I suppose the ECU cannot compensate for my richness because I am out of the o2 sensor's resolution range. When i leaned it out a bit, I could enter closed loop. The main question I am trying to solve is, WHY am i running so rich if PFC should be somewhat accurate? I shouldnt be running so rich that the motor bogs with no load...
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i'm by no means against going to a tuner to fix the issues. However, the car is basically undriveable to get there, and I would rather not hassle w/ a tow if possible. I wanted the car to be driveable- then drive to a dyno. I just want to know if theres something (other than tuning) that is wrong with the car.
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vg30 is longer. however, sr20 bolts are the same as rb26
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Setup: Motor has a built bottom end 87mm bore. Running PFC with just hand controller, regular narrowband o2 sensors, 550cc nismo injectors (injector compensation set ~ 78.5%, lag time 0.00ms), RB25 80mm MAFs x 2 (set in PFC). Fuel pressure @ 43 psi off vacuum(supra TT 290 lph fuel pump with hardwire kit), AAC tested and working. Timing is set correctly. Injectors have been flowed and cleaned. My motor is just running rich in general. I havent stepped on the motor at all. Mostly just tuning the idle up to 3k rpm, no load. It doesnt enter closed loop at ALL with the above settings. When i leaned it out with the rough injector % compensation a little bit at a time, it runs better and actually goes into closed loop(can see rich/lean back and forth on PFC). b/c of richness, my motor BOGS and often chokes out after a quick rev/let off. I don't want to play around with the PFC settings too much b/c I still believe that the base map should be OK. Not trying to put a band-aid over a possible bigger problem if there is one. Idle sounds OK, although still reading rich on both o2s. There is what sounds like a slight miss sometimes, not sure if its because the ignitors are on their way out, or b/c of richness and backfire?? AFM readings are ~ 1.1-1.2V across the RB25 mafs on idle. My BOV isnt recirculating but there isnt enough pressure difference to pull them open. Just in case I have capped it off. My car isnt on the road yet or boosting at all. I have ~ 17 inHg of vacuum on idle, pressure tested intake tract for leaks.. all ok. Questions: -How accurate is the PFC in general with such a rough tune? -One of the factors of my richness MAY be my injector lag time. What is the proper setting for Nismo 550cc pink tops? I have moved it around some, but left it at 0 just to be "safe". Perhaps they have less lag time than standard injectors, and thus my injectors are opening for too long?? -Is it normal for people to have to mess with injector numbers so much before they can run remotely right? -Same for ignition maps? Please offer some advice if possible. Thanks!
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The Best Machine Shop for RB Motors
gawdzilla replied to WetGTR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
thanks, appreciate it. -
The Best Machine Shop for RB Motors
gawdzilla replied to WetGTR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i believe part # 202-4206 is the head stud kit for "L24, L26, L28 series, 6-cylinder". could you please confirm the p/n for the ARP main studs? also... when checking for if the mains need to be tunnel honed- will the block just go out of round or will the mains also become slightly misaligned with respect to each other? all i have is a dial bore gauge to check roundness. there is no way for me to check alignment through the tunnel. Thanks again! -
The Best Machine Shop for RB Motors
gawdzilla replied to WetGTR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
awesome info. do you have the part number for the ARP main studs? i was planning on reusing the OEM ones- is this a bad idea? :Oops: . i got arp conrod and head fasteners, just no mains. Also, if i did upgrade to ARP mains, would i need to have my mains re-machined for the new ARP fasteners? (my mains were checked originally w/ the OEM mains). Thanks! -
FS: RB26 HKS TA45 650+ps kit
gawdzilla replied to too_much_boost's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
you've got a PM