nzM35

OK cheers Scotty. You answered my next question on replacing the chain and tensioner. Looks like I'll be giving it a crack in the new year. Thanks for the help!

Yea, I've been thinking about it lately and think it makes more sense to repair. Are you referring to the sprocket or the solenoid? I've already done the solenoid, new oem. How hard is it to change the sprocket? As far as I know, once I get the timing cover off its basically a timing chain change doing the sprocket while there. That's where my balls drop. Never messed with cam belts or chains.

I'm in Chch. The more I think about it the more it makes sense to repair it. Sure could do with a trustworthy mechanic

yea, think i might change them anyway. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

oh I forgot to mention the other reason I believe its the sprocket, A few months before all this started happening I had an oil change done. About a month after that, when starting the car in the morning the idle would fluctuate for a few seconds and then return to normal. It did this fora 3 weeks until I checked the oil level on level ground at the servo. Found it was low (at the low mark exactly) and topped it up. That problem then disappeared. From my research, low oil can cause the sprockets to crap out. :facepalm: shudda checked the oil sooner!

ok sweet. I was aware of the hr and rev-up models, just making sure a regular vq35de would work. Mine is actually a PM35, so RWD. Would this make it as simple as dropping the old and in with the new? I have a couple of theories to doubt it being the sensors, I never had a CEL come on. Only pending codes when I checked with a scanner. I bought 1 of those cheap bluetooth OBDII adapters and used that with an android app called Car Gauge Pro. Through this i can watch the duty cycle of the VTC solenoids as well as the timing advance from the cam sensors. When everything is working normally you can see the timing advance/retard in relation to the cam sensor readings. When it craps out (obvious lack of torque through the mid range) you can see the duty cycle of the affected bank either drop right out (if the timing is stuck advanced, ie its trying to pull it back) or if its not advancing as it should, the duty cycle increase alot higher, higher than it ever does when its running fine. If I keep driving for a while and it sticks the whole time the ECU shots off the VTC function all together, until I restart. I hope that makes sense, but from what I gather, electrically everything seems to run just fine. Mechanically the only 2 things that can cause this are the VTC solenoid and the sprocket itself. For the past 3 months while I've been working out what to do I've unplugged the VTC solenoids. The car just runs with no VVT now and CEL on, can you say GUTLESS! lol. Oh and thanks for the fast response! I hope i'm wrong though...

Hi everyone, Just registered but have been reading here since I got my stag 2.5yrs ago. Long story short over the last year I believe te bank 1 VVT cam sprocket has been on its way out. Replaced VVT solenoid with no success. Intermittent rough idle and lack of power. Throwing code p0011? Through the obd port and an app I can see the timing 'sticking'. After a lot of research, I'm 99% sure the cam sprocket is toast. No way to tell without opening it up. Nissan blaming the cam sensors. Anyway, the repair bill for this will be huge. Apparently 20+ hours, even through amayama the sprocket alone is close to 1k. This job is not something I would tackle myself. I'm starting to consider replacing the engine completely, myself. Question is, can I use a vq35de from a 350z or v35 skyline? I assume so but don't want to find out I can't the hard way. Also considering the vq25det, depending on what's involved. Cheers