slowpoke2006

rb25det s1 stock turbo 550cc injectors z32 Maf Nistune with rb20 computer Split-fire coil packs 3" cat-back exhaust stock dump and down pipe and cat 93 pump gas

Cool thanks ill look into them.

Not really sure what I'm going with. Having a hard time desiding I want good response. Would like to hit full boost in the 3k range and make about 400whp or 300rwkw I could do a high flow turbo and that would get me close to my mark but I would be pushing it with some where in the 20psi range but I really would like to stay below 18psi.

Just an update it was the filter on the catch can stopping up. Ran the hoses back to the intake like stock setup was and everything is doing fine. Ive put almost 4k miles on it since and not losing any oil or coolant. I have since installed a nistune board and new coil packs. I also found out that the acc, o2 and vct were not getting a 12v power. Last owner pulled the fuse for it and i also found he broke a bolt that held the acc valve on the intake. Had to pull the intake off to fix that. It was a lot easier to pull off that it was to get on. It also has a new starter from a 65 datsun 411. Getting ready to buy new injectors, dump pipe, down pipe, maf, bov, and turbo. Still trying to decide what turbo to go with so the dump pipe is on a waiting list till i decide what turbo.

It was on the car when i got it, but from my understanding its to keep oil out of the intake by separating the oil from air that is coming from your crank case. From reading online there are several ways to hook one up. If they are done right i don't think that they will cause problems. I will be reconnecting my pcv valve and running a pipe from where the filter goes to before the turbo and after the MAF. That is the easiest way for me to fix mine. I will also be putting steel wool inside the catch can to help separate the oil out.

Hey just wanted to let everyone know it was the hoses to the catch can and a stopped up filter. My catch can is in a bad location when it rains the filter gets soaked with water and the crank case isn't able to breath. It started smoking again after driving in the rain for 3 hours and i pulled the filter off that was stopped up and put a new one on and it stopped smoking. So i will be moving my catch can and changing how some of the lines are ran to fix the problem permanently.

I still am and will keep a close eye on it. I have checked everything I can with out pulling parts of the motor apart to check things. I will pull the turbo this holiday weekend after I fix the ka24e motor to check it for signs of leaking, but there was no oil on the o2 sensor but will check parts of the exhaust for oil. Not much else I can do with it not smoking ant more. I do think it could have been the clasped hoses th the catch can since that was the only place the motor could vent the crank case pressure. When or if it starts to smoke again is when I'll be able to check it out better and determine exactly is the cause. If at that point it's the Pistons oil rings then I'll pull the motor and rebuild it.

I will be getting good hoses for it and will be watching it for the next few weeks and at my next oil change I will go with a little thicker oil like what was mitioned. I'm fixing my truck so I have something to daily if need be. New valves and rocker arms for it as the last owner didn't take care of it and it has smashed 2 valves on the exaust side. So 4 new valves and 4 new rocker arms with a valve lap job. Parts should be here today for that job. Guess I'll have a fun Christmas doing that job.

I think I may have found out what caused it the two lines going to my catch can are crushed flat so I think it was the crank case becoming presherised than pushing oil past the rings. But will also check into thicker oil. Will replace the lines to my catch can until then I connected them back to the intake

They looked great. A nice tan brown on the tips and some black around the base at the end the the threads just suit that could be wiped off.

I know I didn't do anything that could have stopped it from smoking. I just did several checks to see if I had a blown head gasket. I can rule out blow by from the valve covers as they go to a catch can and not the intake. The other places that oil can get in are at the valve stem seals but you would mostly see it smoke on start up after its been sitting for a little while then there would be the turbo oil seals but I have no oil in my intake. I take care when checking things to make sure I'm not changing anything.The fact that it did it once means that something is going out. I'm just trying to rule out things that can be checked before I replace anything or start pulling the motor apart to check things. I'm not leaping to an conclusions. I'm looking to do test and find out the facts.

I'd rather not take it to a mechanic. How would they tell if it's the oil seals? A boar scoop or pulling the Pistons out and checking them? It hasn't done it again sense Friday night. As far as oil pressure when it's cold and I crank it up it has 80 psi. As it warms up it will drop to about 18 when fully warm and idling around 850. And as I Rev with it warm it will go back up to 80 psi at about 6500 rpms. I don't mind buying any tools that I would need to diagnose any of the problems.

I don't know i have never owned a turbo car, but every time i have seen that on a na car it has been bad news. How bad would that be? Should i start saving for a new turbo or is it not a huge deal?

None that i could tell. The hose is dry.

So a quick description of the car and motor. It's an S1 Rb25det swapped into an 89 240sx with a FMIC, Freddy intake, an OBX bov stock turbo, stock ecu and wiring specialist harness. Its on its 3rd oil change running Mobile 1 fully synthetic advance formula 10w30. It has an oil catch can also. I didn't put the motor in the car i have just been going through every part of it and checking everything out that i can. It had a new water and oil pump installed before putting it into the car. when i got the car i changed to oil, plugs and cleaned the filter and checked the coolant. I have been driving it about for 3 weeks at 7psi of boost and some times 10psi set with a home made manual boost controller. The other night i get in the car after work and crank it up and let it warm up before taking off and it starts to pore out white/grayish smoke out the exhaust. Im setting at a red light when i notice it. Im around a few other cars so i pull into a parts store and let it idle there and i can see it just rolling out and it smelled like burning oil no sweet smell but would burn the hell out of your eyes. It would almost white out the car beside me. All my temps are good and it has great oil pressure. I limp it home. I couldn't tell if it was still rolling out while cruising home only when i stopped at a red light could i see it. I have done a block test to check for exhaust gases in the coolant system there was none, i have done a compression test and all 6 cyl are at 150psi. I went and got a cylinder leak down tester and tested all 6 cyl and they where all in the green with less than a 20% leak down. I did the compression test with the motor close to operating temps and didn't add any oil to the cyl. After putting everything back together its no longer smoking at all. It does have a slight miss at idle but that is being caused by my coil packs you can see them arc to the valve covers when it misses. Any ideas on what could have caused the smoke then it just stop the next day? Also i think my brake booster is going bad some times i have a great peddle and other times its hard a hell to mash so that is on the list of things to fix as well. Thanks for any help. James