dwhe009

anyone?

looks like my t3/to4e measure the smallest diameter of the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel and tell us

ok, so it is counting volume per cycle of the motor then. i would be interested in how exactly it does this, how the thing counts air? I am correct in saying most guys with rb20dets with stock ecu and injectors hit the fuel cut ( afm max) before the injectors run out? does this a safe way to find the limit of my set up would be to slowly turn the boost up until i hit the fuel cut, then turn it back slightly?

cheers rb-30 power. I have always wanted to know, is the air flow meter value a value of the volume of air coming in per time (eg second) or the amount of air coming in per cycle of the motor? Because if you have load (afm) versus rpm maps, then doesn't that mean you have load per cycle of the engine. eg the afm signal may say 2volts at 3000rpm at -2psi pressure and then 4volts at 3000rpm at +7psi boost and still say 4volts at 7psi at 6000rpm? am i correct?

anybody? will a fuel cut defencer help me get the little bit more? does it do this by holding the airflow meter signal just below its maximum? won't this make the ecu count less air than is actually coming in and therefore not give it enough fuel?

what is max voltage out of the standard air flow meter? is it 5.12v? what about injector duty cycle? how many milliseconds? I have made up the interface and i use conzult (the free version, for 300zx) to monitor these values. Anyone know of any other good free software that will data log so i can look through a run instead of nearly crashing as i try to look at data real time. ha ha

gidday, i have a rb20det with a few mods and i want to know how much further i can turn the boost up before either the air flow cut, or injectors max out. My mods, silver top rb20det t3/to4e turbo, 49mm turbine, 51mm compressor (73mm outside) 3" mandrel all the way through 400 by 600 by 70mm custom intercooler pod filter 0.8mm gapped plugs stock ecu The ecu has vs data rom on it. i assume this is some japanese tuner, I have had to turn the timing down to around 12 degrees before top dead at idle to make it not ping on boost. ( this maybe cos the chip was for good fuel?, i run 96) any ideas to get a bit more out of the car? It currently runs about 11psi. cheers

Dont use a auto ecu on a manual! I am presently having all sorts of problems with this. Maps are different, runs leaner on boost etc.

As for restriction, it is usually the intercooler that causes a pressure drop. Most guys with the norm, 2.25-2.5 inch piping+ say 300*500*50mm intercooler will only see around 1psi drop at 15psi. big deal.

If its mandrel bent, then it will work perfectly. 60mm is just over 2 and a quarter OD. This size is used by alot of intercooler kits. Some others use 2 and a half (63.5mm), this is only a 24% increase in cross section. Guys use 2 and a half inch for up to 400kw easy. It will easy flow well. Another point, if your total lenght of intercooler piping is around 4m (mine is), times this by cross section and you get volume of air in piping (4*pi*(.03)^2)=.011309m^3. Now a 2ltr motor uses 2ltr of air per 4 revolutions, or 2000ltr (2m^3) per minute at atmosphere pressure. at 15psi @ 4000rpm = 4m^3 per minute=0.0666m^3 per second. So now a 2ltr motor at 4000rpm @15psi will be swallowing .0666m^3 per second, so to fill your intercooler piping (one aspect of lag) will take .16 of a second. ha. crap all. if you do these calulations for 3" pipe it is quite similar (.26sec). You will find that most lag is the turbo having to spin up although you can feel that fraction of a second if anyone has run a motor without any intercooler at all. (these calcs did not include filling the intercooler up with air, (another .2sec approx) The 60mm piping will be exactly what you want.

this is a dyno run of a R33 with a manual conversion still running the auto ecu, quite funny. Does anyone know if this happens to R32's?

I was searching through threads and i found that when rb's with 5spd manuals are run by automatic stock computers the ratio's are leaner than with manual computers? Apparently there is large power loses due to this and timing changes when the auto computer thinks its changing gears. Has anyone experienced this/ heard of this?

how can i tell the ecu that it is in drive? When a conversion is done, do most guys swap the computers?

its about 10,000 times easier with oil pressure. As ylwgtr2 says, when there is oil pressure there is no contact between the bronze bearing and the housing, and no contact between the shaft and the bearing. I have one in my fingers right now. Pull it apart very carefully for yourself, thats the best way to learn about things. Make sure you have clean hands and clean everything with petrol, then add oil when you put it back together.

do you think i should get the ecu swapped at a wreckers then? how would i tell if my computer is an auto one? dont they both have the same pinouts? i had to input 10V into the automatic input pin to stop diagnostics code 54 coming up.