Custard

Hi all. I'm currently wiring up a Haltech E6X to my 1988 R31 TI. The last two wires I need to connect are the CAS trigger and home wires. I cannot for the life of me find anywhere stating which one is which. You can see pin 17 and pin 8 are the two that I need to distinguish. Thanks in advance

Interested in steering wheel also.

Hi all, chasing either an R33 S1, R34, or S15 standard steering wheel. Must be in good condition and able to post to TAS. Thanks

Bee*R limiter type B wanted After a genuine Bee*R for my 33 GTST, preferably used and a bit cheap

Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator - RB20 and RB25 Hi all, selling my Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator. Bought this a month or so ago to diagnose a boost spike issue but it didn't help. Barely used, ran for a couple days and then took back off. Same as this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAMBA-Adjustable-Piston-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-For-Nissan-RB25DET-R33-GTST-GT-/401191218104?hash=item5d68dc2bb8:g:3UMAAOSw8gVX30UN Chasing $100.

Yeah, actuator is easy to change, just gotta pop the turbo heat shield off. I will test both the standard actuator and the adjustable to see if it makes a difference. Interesting to hear, given that I reckon it's been like this for the whole time. Hasn't had any issues really, it's even seen a couple track days. I've paid for a new turbo already, might see if anyone wants the chipped one for a few bucks haha

Well my initial thought was that my turbo may have been like that the whole time, and considering I haven't found any trace of turbo debris I'm kinda inclined to believe that is the case, and that somehow it's just worked this whole time anyway.

Okay, I have a bit of a theory. When I did my boost leak test I had also installed the softest spring in my adjustable actuator, supposed to be a 5 PSI spring. I had noticed that it was substantially easier to manually pull the rod out of the actuator against the spring than it was on the standard 5 PSI actuator. I didn't think anything of it at the time, but could it maybe be possible that being so soft the pressure from inside the turbo actually just pushed the wastegate open itself? I put the adjustable actuator back on the turbo and tried pushing the wastegate open from the inside and it was quite easy - a lot harder with the standard actuator. I really should have put the standard actuator in before ripping my turbo out...

Now this is what I would have thought, but nobody has said anything like this until now so I figured the chipped fins must have prevented it from making boost. But yes, the wastegate flap was definitely closed, and I had applied a few mm of preload to the arm. I had the actuator setup previously with a harder spring and no issues with it.

Yeah, that's the leading theory. I mostly just wanted to know if it was even possible for the wheel to have been damaged the whole time, as I did not think what I did to boost leak test it could have caused it to happen. Won't be doing it like that again, haha. Even though virtually every guide I found online said to do it like that...

Yep, this is true. Would if I could. Being poor is expensive. Standard turbo should last me at least until I can save up for a better setup though, my last one was fine until I leak tested it haha. I don't think so, I checked over everything before I pulled it all out. I only put 5 PSI into the system anyway which is less than I ran daily.

My currently kit is a return flow and the cooling pro cooler to replace mine is $330. I can't buy any different one because my piping wouldn't work. There's nothing half arsed about that particular setup, but when I upgrade I will be going with a bigger and better turbo, doing everything properly and doing it all at once. I'm not going to blow 900+ dollars (that I can't bloody afford in the first place) on an upgrade that isn't what I want. If you think I'm stubborn because of that I don't know what to say to you. The turbo I had didn't just randomly blow up, something happened when I boost tested it. I have no reason to think the next standard turbo will just blow up, and since I can't afford to do anything else, I will be replacing it with a standard turbo. Yep, it's a riskier decision than getting a brand new high flow, but being poor means I have no choice. I opened the thread to get some opinions on what could have caused the broken turbo in the first place, not for people to tell me I'm stubborn because I'm not upgrading my car at their whim.

Yeah, still a lot of money to half-arse it. If I upgrade I'm going to do it properly. Don't doubt that it's sound advice but again, not interested in upgrade advice, I can't bloody afford it, so please stop. I found a small leak in my FMIC from some recent wallaby damage that my car incurred, so I will most likely be replacing it. Unfortunately for me it is not a $150 part, it's a $330 part. More f**king money down the drain.

As far as I am aware it is not safe to be running a highflow turbo without supporting mods and a tune. which is where it gets expensive.

Mmm yes, I will be doing that in the future. Sorry but I'm not here for upgrade advice, I know what my options are and I can't afford to do anything else. I will be spending under $200 on a replacement turbo and getting my (only) car back on the road ASAP. Not interested in people casually telling me to drop thousands on my car.

Yes indeed, that's what I meant when I said I'd be thoroughly cleaning everything.

It's definitely a nylon wheel, very obvious from the feel of flicking it with my fingernail. I'm thinking either a bit of crap came through my air compressor, or perhaps the pressure from the leak tester just hit it in a way it didn't like. Whatever I did, it broke before I drove it again - nothing happened when I actually started it up and drove it. Didn't hit a single pound of boost or hear anything weird when I got it back on the road, besides when I disconnected the actuator (and since it wasn't actually producing enough pressure to open the wastegate I chalk that extra 3 PSI up to the line that I left open on the charge pipe causing a rich condition). Not very helpful mate, unlike some people I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at my car. I will be thoroughly checking and cleaning all piping and my intercooler and replacing my turbo with a good condition used unit, hopefully an R34 turbo. I will also be compression testing my motor to ensure nothing got in between my valves, but judging by how my car was running perfectly and actually surprisingly peppy making zero boost I would be very surprised if anything's happened to the motor.

PM'd mate

Hi guys, after an RB25 standard turbo in good condition. Will need to be posted to Tassie. Cheers

Haha, sure is. Already was up until 2:30 last night ripping the thing out, haha. It's an S2 turbo with a nylon wheel as far as I can tell, so I don't think I'll be able to determine it that way. I had the intake off to leak test it so it's possible, but I don't know what it could have been, and I can't find anything anywhere in the piping. I gather any bits of turbo/debris wouldn't have made it any further than my intercooler, but I can't find anything in there at all.

I took some photos of the turbo:

Did a boost leak test, now I'm not making any boost Hi all. Before I start, my car is a 1997 R33 GTST with a standard turbo. So today I decided I would perform a boost leak test while I was in fiddling with my new adjustable wastegate actuator. I only pressurised it to the point that my 5 PSI wastegate actuator opened, and I realised that my leak tester was leaking, so I stopped. I had connected the leak tester directly to the turbo inlet. Upon putting my car back together and going for a drive, I realised it was making no boost at all. The boost gauge rises until it hits zero and doesn't go any further. To eliminate my wastegate actuator from the equation I disconnected it, and then I saw a maximum of 3 PSI. The turbo I've been running is a used standard one that I put in when I bought the car, as I bought it with a blown exhaust wheel on the original turbo. The turbo has always made a funny high pitched whine when it comes onto boost, but it never got any worse or developed any shaft play so I didn't think anything of it. I've put over 10,000 kilometers on the turbo since putting it in. I took my intake pipe off to look at the turbo and noticed two of the blades have a decent sized chunk missing. Is it possible that those chunks have been missing the whole time and could explain the strange whine when the turbo spools up? I feel like I probably would have noticed the missing bits at some stage of my tinkering but it's possible that I did not. Would the turbo even create proper boost with such missing bits from the compressor turbine? If the damage to the turbo is new, how on earth would a boost leak test have damaged anything? I'm so confused about this whole thing - I'd be super grateful for some opinions from you guys.

Because I'm getting boost spiking on just wastegate pressure, would this suggest my wastegate actuator is no good?

Yes, actuator is connected straight to the nipple on the cold side of the intercooler piping, no stock solenoid. Readings are taken from an aftermarket boost gauge in PSI. The higher boost level that I'm getting isn't dependant on my RPM but rather how hard and fast the boost is coming on.

Okay, I did this. I saw 5 PSI when easing into boost and around 6-7 when stomping it from higher revs. I had a thought: perhaps with the addition of my front mount intercooler, the extra volume that has to be pressurised before results in the opening of the wastegate being delayed? If this was the case, would relocating the barb from the cold side to the hot side fix this? Probably would have achieved the same result what as post above suggested, but it's done now.