NismoR34

Mine

I am similar to NJR 34GTT at this point Bass...I will see if I can find me a spare stock pipe and then I would definitely get one of these! Will let you know... Dale.

Thanks Afro but I already have that doc, I quoted it earlier:

No steam out the back. Not losing any coolant. Maybe thermostat just looks hard to remove cause there are so many things in the way of getting at the bolts! The AC / Thermo / Electric fan works just fine too. I am assuming the clutch fan is the main fan attached to the radiator and sucks air through to the engine bay. This works, however, I must say that I have been getting some belt noises recently, sort of a squeaking sound. I have visually inspected the belts and there does NOT seem to be any noticeable damage to any of them - tension is tight, possibly too tight? Maybe it is slipping? I don't know how to apply 10 Kg of pressure by hand to check if its within recommended tolerances? When I did the coolant flush/change last week I couldn't find the block drain plug [i now know where it is] so I used a creative method to get rid of the engine block fluids. Firstly I ran the engine [heater also set to 32c] with the radiator drain plug off and the rad cap off whilst running water through - this helped extract a fair bit of coolant etc that didn't already drain from the rad. Next I proceeded to blow out the remainder via the "blowhole" at the top of the engine - the air release [bleed] plug!

Is this stuff still available? The original post is from June 04. I am interested in the Cusco catch can + brake stopper. Emailing you now...

Well at least I gave him some 1/4 mile times, what have you guys done? I assumed he meant Best as in Quickest but I could be wrong... I don't see a point in anyone posting questions like "which car is better" its like asking "How long is a piece of string". Everyone has their own opinion on what they like and what does the word Better mean anyhow? "My Dad's better than yours" is all it sounds like - childish behaviour but anyway... end Doesn't look like he's been back to check the results anyhow...

It's possible that the mix is higher than 50% due to not getting ALL of the water [and possibly some traces of previous coolant] out. Water was used to flush / clean it out, prior to new coolant. I poured about 4L of the coolant in first and then added demineralised water afterwards but I did not get 4L of water in, according to specs there should be around 8.7L for the system and .7L for the overflow reservoir [total 9.4L]. I only got around L of d-water in, is this a big concern? I thought about emptying the .7L reservoir which is mainly coolant and filling up with d-water...

Just checked the Oil again and there's no milk No sign of white whatsoever in the oil and likewise with the coolant, there is definitely no Oil in there. wrxhoon - I did follow that procedure when I changed the coolant a week ago, thanks. I also attempted to try your other test with running the engine with the rad cap off but I noticed the level of coolant slowly rising to the top just on idle and thought I had better not rev the engine to 3-4K! The engine wasn't COLD as I had been driving it around earlier, but it had cooled down for about 2 hours... I Still havent tested the thermostat, looks like a bitch to get out! I may get my mechanic to have a look at that... Cheers

I believe the Thermostat is working because the return hose to the Radiator gets warm which means the Thermostat is opening to let it back through. Whether it is working at the correct temperature or not I will need to test - by removing it. Went to Nissan today but none in stock, will test mine and order one if its stuffed. BTW The Oil [on a hot day] gets warm well before the Coolant heats up. In fact most of the time its just the Oil that gets up to higher than normal. Today driving the car around in 20 degree weather the Oil was fine, it never got above 92... the coolant stayed under halfway! While I was at Nissan I checked their coolant bottle which recommended a 30-50% mix but no higher than 50. I was under the impression that adding a higher mix provides greater protection in both extremes: Hot & Cold weather, hence I did 50%. Perhaps their is still Air in the cooling system? What is the best & most thorough way to get it out? By opening the nut which has "Do no open when hot" written next to it? Then pumping the hose or something? Does the radiator cap need removing to bleed air out or should it stay on? Thanks

Thanks for the advice so far I did bleed the system after flushing the radiator - for the first drive after new coolant the Revs were up & down like a yo-yo, not sure why but a look at the R33 Service Manual says to do what it was pretty much doing on its own: Coolant and Oil are separate systems on the 34 also. I am thinking of replacing the Thermostat as it could still be the original one in there for all I know... Never noticed any white stuff in the oil - oil looks fine. There was some brown when I flushed out the old stuff last week, haven't seen any since though. Btw. most of the year the Oil temp sits between 88 and 92 degrees for normal everday type driving. Driven hard it occasionally gets up to between 95-100 but very rarely in the 2 years I have owned it have I seen above 110! And likewise with the Engine temp for over 2 years it has pretty much sat just under the half-way mark, only recently has it gone to 3/4 only a couple of hot days...

Hi folks I will try to keep it short. I have noticed my Oil Temp running really hot this summer and the radiator coolant / engine temp has also gotten up to dangerous levels on a couple of occasions. Today for example, it was approx 33 degrees outside and a bit humid, I cruised on a 30 minute journey and by the end of it the Oil Temp gauge was up to about 112 degrees factory gauge, Engine Temp rose minimally above normal - factory gauge has no numbers, a mm or 2 above normal range, about midway. After the car cooled off for at least 30 minutes the Oil temp was back to approx 90 degrees when I started it up for the return journey home. Oil Temp got back up to 110 without much fuss and after running the A/C [set to 18 degrees] for 2-3 minutes the Oil went up further to nearly 115 and the Engine Temp shot up to around 2/3 or 3/4of the gauge - not quite overheating but getting into the worry zone! I wasn't driving hard either. Oil is Motul 4100 Turbolight 10w40 and was put in 1000 kms ago - and the correct amount is in there. 1 Week ago I flushed the radiator and put in Nulon AntiFreeze/AntiBoil at approx 50% mixture... The previous coolant 'Tectaloy' stuff actually boiled over [a few weeks ago] to the point where a litre or 2 was spat out of the overflow reservoir. At the time I had the standard radiator cap on but have since put my nismo 1.3 bar one back on as I believe this raises the boiling point of the coolant. Any ideas on why its overheating so easily on a warm day? I don't recall the Oil Temp getting up to 110 last summer or the summer before that, and up until a couple of months ago the Engine Temp gauge had NEVER gone past the half-way mark! Last summer I was possibly runnning a different Brand Oil but it was the same 10w40 rating anyway... I don't have a FMIC on the car, boost is around the stock level, is it maybe the thermostat? I may just replace this anyway and see. What about the water pump? Wouldn't this be leaking if it was stuffed? My heater & aircon work fine and so does the thermo fan! According to the Nulon bottle of coolant I should have protection up to 127 degrees or more but wtf is up with the Oil Temp and what can I do? I would like to use my car AND the aircon in summer Thanks for taking the time to read it! Let me know if I have left anything out Cheers Dale

Supposedly 14.1 / 14.2 is the stock time for the R34 GTT. With minimal mods I managed a 13.8 so its probably fairly accurate. GooGle is your friend, try this link for some useful figures: http://www.webdelivery.com.au/carsinfo.htm

Other than the normal nismo/aero bar like the one in your avatar, I have seen a couple of front bars that have 2 extra spots next to the indicators, on the inside - but these have had fog lights in them which I believe were a factory option so maybe they have just removed one of the fog lights to do the CAI? Is there something on the drivers side next to the indicator as well?

Got one today. Cheers Dale

Hi Michael, I have been using the same gauge in 2 different cars now and it works fine. I think your Grounding and Power wires are correct. The problem may be with A. The wire you are connecting the Violet one to or B. Perhaps the O2 sensor is on its way out? I remember there being at least 2 different wires coming off the O2 sensor, one of them made the gauge act strangely, possibly similar to your description - but it definatley was not working as it should [prior knowledge of my gauge working in another car helped me know it was wrong]. But when I connected the Violet wire up to the other wire on the sensor it started to work. I believe when the single GREEN LED is lit up [the last Rich LED on the right] this is just indicating that you actually have power to the gauge, nothing else. When you are getting more than 1 LED light up and at differing brightness levels its probably just due to the way the gauge works - each LED represents a different voltage detected from the O2 sensor, for example; if .2 volts is represented by the first RED LED lighting up fully and the next RED LED only becomes FULL brightness at .3v - if it is only registering .25v then that would explain only half brightness...if that makes sense!? I know you said you used a multimeter but just try hooking up the Violet wire to a different O2 sensor wire and see what you get!!! Maybe use your multimeter directly across the the wires at the Sensor end rather than at the ECU - I never touched the ECU when I hooked up mine. When correctly hooked up: the gauge, during most driving conditions, pretty much just scans from one side to the other as the voltage varies [LEAN to RICH, RICH to LEAN] kind of like windscreen wipers, until you accelerate 80% or more of throttle which then usually goes straight to the GREEN RICH zone until you back off. Hope this helps Dale.

sorry to dig up the thread again but I have been having issues with idle lately also. Each time I disengage a gear and return to neutral, ie when stopping my revs seem to jump up a couple of hundred rpm. I have pulled apart and cleaned out the AAC Valve numerous times in the last 12 months so it must be something else, any ideas? Where should the TPS position be when closed? Is there a general rule like TDC or something? Thanks Dale

I have a stock dash cluster which currently has 56,000 kms on it How much would you want for an exchange for the Nismo 300k one? [Assuming Erik's dash is way off the mark] Cheers.

Has that guy got something against rubber and plastic? LoL

All SOLD Now. Thanks Dale.

I am missing one [out of 2] and to run stock boost I need a 2nd one. As far as I know GTR's only have one but the RWD turbo skylines have 2! Let me know if you no longer need it and I will buy it off ya Cheers Dale

TS-A1665

Bump

TiLT

Interested in a Genuine Nismo Engine Oil Cap - sending pm now, cheers.

i am off work until the 17th jan [next monday], let me know if "another" black 34 gtt is needed, i don't know how i missed this thread :confused: I think i got it mixed up with that other calendar thread...the one that has been going on for about a year already,,,with nothing really happening, bla bla Albert Park lake is good, as stated earlier Knee: how is Apollo Bay "close to the city"? LOL