Blakeo

Seems to be a common issue, I had a look at two used tanks and both had similar cracks to mine. No one that does plastic welding near me seems to want to do it to a fuel tank lol

Hi Dose, I know you'll be reading this thread. Brake pads are going good mate thanks. Anyway, pulled the 33 fuel tank out today because we were limited to a disgusting 480hp on the old fuel pump setup. On pulling the tank, I found the cracks in the photo (I don't think they're leaking, but fuel evaporates quick so hard to tell). What's the best way to repair, or is their a new tank alternative? Thank you.

Been awhile, how is it going?

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone had access to a factory rebuild manual for the Nismo GT LSD. Not to fit it into a housing, but to replace the clutch plates and shim washers. I have bought a second hand one, someone has been in there before and messed with it. I have a rebuild kit from Nengun but nothing to reference. Thank you.

So essentially the s/r chassis is better than anything else, unless they make rules against them 😎

Hi guys, taking into account: bang for buck, tuning potential,availability, aftermarket support. Are R/S chassis still competitive in motorsport, is there a reason why they seem to be more commonly used than say a R35 GTR in WTAC?

I had the same issue. I got them swapped for monoblock alcon calipers, no issues now. Side note, how is your brake line secured?

E85/P98 flex fuel - I would want to make the 600whp on e85

Hi guys, I'm chasing a recommendation for a turbo charger to suit 600whp. Engine is a RB25 series 2, with rebuilt forged internals with 8.5 comp ratio. Cams are 262/272. I was considering buying a Garrett G30 770 with 0.83 AR, would it be best to get a V band inlet and outlet to suit as I need to buy a 6 boost manifold as well? Thank you.

Hey Duncan, What you did with the boot is mint, I'm going to do the same with my R33. Do you no longer like the R-Chassis?

Hi guys, I am considering buying the Ross Racing Trigger kit for my ecr33. The only thing that puts me off is these seem to get a bad wrap but most forum posts I can find are from almost 10 years ago. Has the quality improved? I like that I can reuse my nitto timing gear, don't need to modify my billet oil pump etc to fit this trigger kit. But if its no good, I will go another way - can anyone recommend something better? Thank you.

Hi guys, I've just bit the bullet on a forged rebuild for my 25det looking at making 600rwhp with the built engine. Having always been a butthurt for big brakes, I'd like to upgrade the fronts. I have looked at a few different websites, not have really stood out to me. What are some good quality front brakes, are the Attkd ones any good? Thanks.

Yeah I understand what you mean, but the LS swaps I've seen done to r33s (admittedly to drift cars). You have to hammer out the transmission tunnel to fit the t56/tr6060, cut and box the drifters side firewall for head clearance. All stuff that's not terrible, but don't want to do to my cleanish gtst. I've decided to buy the NEO and rebuild it, maybe best of both options lol.

The complexities involved with getting a v8 swap done, and the sacrifices for clearance etc not worth it imo unless its a drift car or similar.

Hi guys, I have a ECR33 97 model. Engine has a cracked ring land. Would it better to rebuild the series 2, or buy a second hand AWD 25det Neo from Japan from ~$3500 tidy it up a bit with new seals and so forth and use that? I'm leaning more towards the NEO option but understandably they're very old engines too now, so could be just buying problems. Cheers.

Hi guys, I have a 2005 V35 skyline with the vq35de. It is a drift car and has been stripped, its now running a standalone ECU and a body harness. Dash everything has been changed to a digital dash controlled by ecu. The vq35de has been great, very reliable but wanting more HP atm the 35de is making 228rwhp. I'd like to be making about 350rwhp. From my research it looks like a vq25det lightly modified could be a good engine to swap in. I understand the CD trans will bolt up right to the vq25det with a 35de sump used. My only issue is a wiring harness/ecu to control the vq25det, from what i've found the ecu is a lot different to the vq35de so my plugin for the 35de will not work. Is there any potential to use the vq35de wiring harness and modify as necessary to retain the plugin ecu? Keen to hear what you guys think, or am I best off to chuck on a cheap turbo kit on the 35de and see how long it lasts.

Hi guys, I am chasing the rear subframe torque specs. Does anyone know where I can find these specs? I've searched on here and the closest I can get is the R32 GTR specs - is that what everyone uses?

I can't even get my hands on japanese wiring diagram at the moment.

100% best suggestion is to take it to a mechanic, RB26s aren't cheap these days hoping for the best for you!

Hi guys, In my endeavour to repair my V35 sedan I acquired a V35 coupe series 2 chassis which I was expecting to be able to swap the loom into the sedan. Unfortunately some parts of the harness are different and there is no communication between the ECU/BCM. I understood it may not work, but at the time was my best option to get my car up and running. Being that it is a drift car I didn't mind if none of the door electrics and so forth didn't work in the back of the sedan. Regards, Blake.

Essentially the whole dash loom needs replacement, also looks like now the ECU is bricked from possible 12v shorting thru the canbus I have found one guy local who is a legend, that has parted a series 1 v35 sedan and hoping the loom from this can be used. At the moment I don't think it will work but going to give it a shot. Cheers.

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knew someones uncles cousins goldfish that may have a v35 skyline series 2 dash loom to suit sedan (i think coupe is likely the same too). Long story but mine caught fire and need a replacement, Nissan would like over $5,000AUD so thought before reshelling I would ask. Thank you.

Least your wiring harness hasn't caught on fire yet like mine.

Hey Duncan, Thanks for replying. The cheapest quote I have been able to get to setup a body loom, as in just headlights, brakes, indicators and have the ecu be standalone is $8,500+gst and will need to buy an aftermarket ecu in the region of ~$2,000. Does the above sound right? Just seems to be super expensive, I didn't want anything fancy just for the car to drive. I don't think even an auto sparky would be able to fix the wiring harness, its an absolute mess. Hoping someone here knows if a series 1 harness will fit. I have found the IPDM wiring pin outs are slightly different, but I don't know if that's an issue if I buy the whole series 1 wiring harness with modules.. I guess then my series 2 ecu won't work.

P.S anyone with access to the factory wiring diagrams would be majorly benefical please HMU.