Blakeo

Issue has been rectified by upgrading to a heavy duty thermofan on the front and shrouding it with foam around the base. With AC on at the lights on 36 degree day it stabilised at 82 degrees and after sitting for 5 minutes came down to 80 degrees. Old thermofan was very lazy.

I can't give you R32 specific information as I haven't done this conversion on this chassis. You are best off referring to the factory manual for the wiring diagram to know which pins you need to bridge. You can find it by doing a search on here. As far as the reverse lights go, usually the manual box will have the reverse switch wiring on the box and you will solder this to the existing wires which usually go to the selector for reverse.

Hi Ted, I had a similar issue with my 33. Is your still running the factory clutch dampener lines? If so, delete it immediately. Buy the GKTech hose that goes directly from the master to the slave. Not only do you save about 1kg of weight removing the clutch dampener lines, but clutch feel is improved immensely and a lot less likely to leak and have air bubbles in the system.

Sometimes the factory item can have issues. My FPR was causing the fuel pressure on the rail to jump around erratically and was changed out for a Turbosmart FPR. To me 36psi sounds like on the low side. Mine runs about 45psi but has been tuned and tuner set it to this pressure. It is good they kept the fuel dampener inline it definitely does help.

Hey Cam thanks for the advice I have joined the groups and asked for some advice. Do you know if you can use the 350z z33 trans with the 350gt as the trans axle code is the same? Thank you.

Hi guys, my girlfriends 2005 v35 auto skyline is slipping in 1st gear. The simplest way I can explain it is that it "slingshots" and then will hammer second gear. I've looked around and the 5 speed boxes are not easy to find for these second hand. Are these gearboxes able to be rebuilt as I've called a couple transmission shops and the general consensus is to 'bring it in and we'll have a look". Which doesn't fill me with much confidence. What's the best route, keeping budget in mind.

Agree with this, especially if its a 35 degree day. The issue is that it doesn't stop there, if I stayed still it would keep raising.

Making this thread is in my last attempt that hopefully someone has information that I have managed to miss doing research. My R33 Skyline will overheat if the A/C is on and sitting at lights. By this I mean, car can be cruising and sitting on 78-82 degrees, pull up at lights and within say 5-10 minutes it will be at least 95 degrees. Usually once it gets to 90 I will turn a/c off and it will stabilize there or come down a degree. My tuner suggested that it was my headgasket as it was pushing a bit of coolant on the dyno. I had the engines block and head machined flat and ground to mirror finish to meet the MLS headgasket surface finish requirement. So new headgasket was fitted with new ARP headstuds. No more issues of pushing coolant and tuner said headgasket is 100%. This still didn't rectify the issue, so going down the worm hole I have ended up changing the thermostat to a new Genuine Nissan 76.5 degree thermostat. New Nissan waterpump, new Mishimoto Radiator (have also tried new OEM one, Mishimoto was slightly better). I have had my mate make ducting to the radiator (for underneath the car and bumper), purchased a GKTECH cooling panel. Car also has a new Nissan OEM fan clutch and GKTECH fan (which also performed slightly better than the stock fan). All this has made a difference to cruising, it will not go over 78 degrees. But when idling at the lights it will still hit 95 degrees. This only happens on 35 degree + days. I have considered upgrading the thermo used by the car for A/C and installing an oil cooler but I feel like I'm just wasting money. The system has been bled multiple times and definitely does not have any leaks or air bubbles. Is there something I am missing?

600hp isn't an issue with an R200. The issue is the axles, and the solution to that would be to run R33 diff and axles. You should be able to pick up a R33 GTST diff and axles reasonably cheap (gumtree in my location $500). You may want to upgrade the centre to a mechanical type locker over the VLSD however.

Having issues with my rb25det series 2, on cold starts it knocks. This is after just recently doing the timing belt. How can I check that the timing is 100% correct? I have also found the previous owner has drilled a 10 cent size hole in the firewall to run his gauges. Can I put a grommet in to protect the wires from rubbing? What is my best option? I don't want to swap in another rooted engine. Thanks.

Run the original one mate, if it was me I would have gone genuine for peace of mind.

Hi guys, Is anyone running a accusump setup here? I'd like to run one to prevent cold start damage. I've had a look at a few threads, apparently you have to run the accusump into the return line of the relocated oil filter lines? Is it hard to do and worth while mod? Car does see some track work. Thanks.

Clutch binding when cold has got me interested, do skylines have adjustable clutches?

Experiencing a notchy shift from 1st to 2nd only when cold. Was thinking of changing out my penrite proshift with redline lightweight shockproof. Thinking gearbox might need a rebuild from what I've read on here.

Circuit racing, went to rev match down shift over estimated the revs. Next thing oil all over the track.

Double post mb

Ok say I want to limiter bash for a minute what would be required to make it unbreakable?

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes.

A mate of mine blew his engine from a failed oil pump at the track because he was on the limiter for a couple seconds. His was a neo seems like its a common issue, of course can keep it off the limiter but it happens sometimes

Hi guys. I want to build my skyline into a reliable track/street car. It is not my daily, but I still want it to be as reliable as possible. At the moment it has a 3" turbo back exhaust, spitfire coil packs, hks coilovers, return flow fmic and a ebc running 10psi and upgraded radiator with a gktech fan. I run Penrite Racing 10w-40 10 tenths engine oil and change every 5,000km. I have heard some issues with the rb25 is the oil pump, needs a crank collar. Can this be done without removing the crankshaft from the engine, pretty sure you have to machine it though. Oil restrictors I have heard from research on here are essential too as well as a head drain kit and rb26 rocker covers. What else should I look at doing to make it a reliable package. Also is this stuff required if my plan is to go to 250rwkw running a Link G4+ with a Kinguawa low mount turbo? Thanks guys, please leave details and no sarcasm.

Hi guys, when I bought my R33 gtst it had a stalling issue if I came up to the lights and took it out of gear or pushed the clutch in (only happened sometimes). From advice I had read, I decided it was the IAC which I preceded to clean the gunk out with carby cleaner and reinstalled. Stalling issue fixed. I marked the screw before removal on the IAC and set it back to this. Car idles at 900rpm warm and about 1100rpm when cold (approximately). On the sticker under the hood it says rpm should be 650rpm. Have I set the idle too high? The car now rev hunts on idle, it only does it sometimes. It will rev from 900->700->900 repeatedly, is this normal? How can I fix this? Will this effect the timing on the car? I am in the process of changing the timing belt and I read on here that the idle can change the vct which changes the base timing? I have lined all marks up with their factory position, I have ordered a timing light and plan to make 100% sure the timing is correct but the rpm changing the timing has confused me (doesn't it only usually do this at a certain rpm where it changes the camshaft phasing like vtec yo?)

What do you think of the oil? So many conflicting answers in other posts.

Hi guys. I'm taking my r33 skyline to track day on Sunday. I will be dropping the oil before with this oil: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-10-Tenths-Racing-10-Engine-Oil-10W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=339062&menuFrom=60104#Description From the searching I have done it is high quality oil and recommended for the skylines. Can anyone second this or suggest a better oil available in w.a from a autoparts store? I'm also after a gearbox oil I heard redline shockproof being suggested a lot but no viscosity is listed also where do people buy this from? I'm considering eBay? I won't be going hard on the car, just for a bit of fun. Any suggestions what I can do to help the car and have more fun at the track? Mods: Turbo back 3" exhaust Dual stage boost removed 18s with potentzas Upgraded brake pads and slotted rotors Pod filter Thanks!

Rebuild under way after reading this haha.

Why are they so hard to find? Drifters blowing them up I'm guessing?