Blakeo

One of the clutch discs must've been bound up or something idk. I got frustrated with it and dumped the clutch on limiter, sat there doing a burnout for a good minute. Clutch now disengages and tailshaft easily can be turned by hand with clutch disengaged. Tl;dr Burnouts fix everything.

Hi GTS, I've looked into the issue more and can confirm throwout is 100 percent correct. Its strange, with the car on the hoist in 1st gear you can't spin the tailshaft easily with clutch pedal down (disengaged). But with the car on the ground, if I clutch in with it in gear someone can easily push the car until I let the clutch out. Does that sound okay?

Hi guys, I have a v35 skyline I did a auto to manual swap in but now the clutch doesn't disengage. Clutch pedal has at least 120mm of throw (it bottom outs on the stop in the clutch bracket anyway so it's not how I've mounted the clutch pedal). I've bled the clutch at least 5 times there is no air in the lines. I've checked with competition clutches the twin disk i bought from them is definitely compatible. New clutch release bearing, clutch plates are around the right way and aligned properly. Slave cylinder moves by about 20-25mm but for some reason clutch still doesn't disengage. Any ideas at all?

Hi guys, I'm not sure if I want to keep my R33 GTST, in the last 3 months I've put $7k into it (turbo blew) so went 6 boost, garrett 3076 gen 2 and a couple other things. I know with the skyline I am on borrowed time with the 20 year old engine, also it hasn't been dynoed yet waiting on the workshop to finish off some fab work. I like the car but it has a few rust issues, the sunroof has just started leaking and to get a replacement (nissan wont just sell seals) is $2.3k AUD, plus getting the rust fixed up in the boot etc will be another couple grand. My girlfriend has also been trying to convince me to buy a 370z, as they're a lot newer (one I'm looking to buy is a 2017 6spd manual). But I don't really want to sell the 33, but think it'd be cheaper to own the 370z especially since I need a more reliable daily. Would it make sense putting another $20k into the r33 (this is factoring in a engine rebuild that will likely be needed soon) or cutting my loses and selling it for a 370z now?

Haha there's no way I'm spending $20k aud on a gearbox with only 600rwhp I still want to street drive it. Come on boys must be someone active here who is running a tr6060 or cd009 behind their rb, I want a clean install. The JWT kit looks so janky with the cut off bellhousing. At the moment the rod shop kit looks the best.

Everytime its been clutch kick in 4th gear at about 150kph, solid center clutch and welded diff - its expected. As far as the t56 manual swap goes I've looked into it and the ratios are no where as ideal as the cd009, also the shift quality is junk have you ever tried to shift a tremec past 6500rpm? They don't.

Hi guys, I have a R33 that I've swapped a Neo into and is making just shy of 600rwhp. I haven't had the usual 3rd gear issue, but I have snapped 2 input shafts. I'm considering going cd009, doing research I found the input shaft is the same size (spline from cd will fit into a rb clutch) but I believe where it benefits is it doesn't step down to a smaller size after the spline - this is where they always break. Having a 6th gear would be nice too. My question is, are the cd gearboxes really that much stronger than a skyline 5 speed? Also which adapter kit would I be best off looking at? I'm thinking about the JWT kit with a CBF mid mount shifter. I'd just need to fabricate my own cross member and have a shop modify the tailshaft.

Haltech Platinum Pro, was a plug-in deal. My wideband was wired in using a separate relay, and the signal ground from the ecu (as recommended). The Link was a lot more cost effective compared to the Elite 2500, and from already having a bad experience I was more comfortable going with the Link and happy I did. It's a very capable and reliable ecu, the help documents are second to none and everything just works as it should. I'm sure the Haltech is good too, if your lucky enough not to get what I and my tuner believed to be a defective device.

I had a Haltech Platinum in my R33 that had 101 problems, Haltech were helpful but getting a replacement ecu after changing basically everything mechanical wise with their advice was nearly impossible (kept blaming everything but the ecu). Ended up opting for a refund, bought a link g4+ and no issues with the same setup.

Throw the Haltech right in the bin and get a Link ecu. They are way better and more reliable.

Hey Duncan, Ended up buying the Attkd kit you suggested thank you ? My friend is running the Alpha Omega Kit on his 34, he has issues with pad squeal because the pad over laps the rotor. He's waiting to see how I go with this kit (just encase anyone reading this thread is looking at the evo swap option, otherwise he's happy with it) Thank you.

Hey guys, I'm looking at a budget big brake kit for my r33 gts25t. I've been looking at the alcon 6 pot front and 4 pot rear, but $6000 is out of my budget. I've done some research, I can pickup porsche/Mercedes/Cadillac 6 pot calipers for $800-1000. Has anyone been running these on their r33 and know if theres custom dogbone kits for them? Otherwise any other cheaper options for a 6 pot front and 4 pot rear? Thank you ?

Does anyone know if the clutches on the v35 skylines have to be indexed? The clutch kit i bought from mantic doesn't have an alignment hole? Please see photos.

Don't sell it you'll regret it 100 percent. But I think at least 15k

The difference isn't in the fuel tank, rather the fuel pump lines. Thanks for the correction even though you apparently (due to your previous "advice") don't know what your talking about. For those playing at home, the 2003 coupe used a barb and clamp to retain tbe hose. Whilst my 2005 sedan uses push locks. All I did was adapt the hose to push lock fitting. Job done.

So glad I just went ahead and did it instead of listening to the internet. For anyone else wondering. Today I swapped out a rusty V35 sedan fuel tank (350gt 2005) with a tank from a 2003 v35 coupe. 100 percent the same, I see amayama has two different part numbers that bit I'm not sure why. The only difference i found was the tube inside the tank which sucks from the other side of the saddle doesnt suit the sedan fuel pump assembly. I just cut it off, and replaced it with fuel rated 3/8th hose and fit perfect with two hose clamps. Thats all that was needed, beat paying nissan $1500 for a new fuel tank.

100 percent he's not lying to you. Above 350rwkw the input shaft bearing is on borrowed time. Generally once it wears a groove in the outer race it doesn't get much worse you'll just have to put up with the noise. Gearset kits such as ppg that are straight cut are so much better on bearings helical cut while quiet load the bearings a ton more.

No one knows?

Also is the 2003 v35 coupe fuel tank the same as a 2005 fuel tank?

Is it possible to do a manual swap to a 2005 v35 sedan from a 2003 v35 coupe. I understand the centre console needs to be modified for handbrake, I plan to use a hydro as its for a drift car. I understand there are tailshaft mods that need to be done, I already talked to a shop and they believe can just modify the front half of the shaft with the 2005 v35s since they didn't run rubber couplings. The part I'm unsure about is tricking the auto ecu into running in neutral mode, if the cross member from a v35 coupe will fit a sedan for the conversion. Any help and advice is much appreciated thank you.

I'd definitely be panicking

It keeps raising though

It keeps raising but at that point I turn the aircon off

I've done everything, koyorad, oem pump, oem fan. Pressure test coolant system, vacuum bled cooling system, new headgasket, head crack tested, new radiator shroud, new oem fan clutch. Literally the only thing left is the electric fan on the front. It may be lazy so I'll look for a replacement. Any other suggestions? On a 40 degree day or can reach 95 degree with aircon on if waiting in traffic for long enough. Then I turn ac off it comes back down. Anyone else's r33 does this? I think it always has but since I've got gauges I'm more aware of it.

Its called Glyptal apparently it repels oil and let's oil return faster. Do you guys realise a accusump isn't a dry sump setup? I've had a couple people pm me stating I don't need all these mods with the accusump as the scavenge pumps fix the head issues so no head drain or sump mods are needed. Accusump is a charged oil canister that pumps oil into the engine once it gets below a certain psi limit (usually 10-15psi).