Blakeo

Hey Kiwi, can you link me to a genuine Mac Valve, I purchased one off ebay that said it was genuine but when it arrived today its unbranded and looks like junk.

The link has better engine protection, I thought e-throttle was better because it controls the idle and you can delete the IACV and some vacuum lines which are associated with that. I haven't found many people who are doing that in saying this. I am happy to stay fly by cable, I will order the MAC valve now. Also my car only runs 20psi of boost is the onboard 3 bar map sensor not good enough?

After making a couple threads and doing research I came to terms with the fact to do it properly I'd need to spend money on a link or haltech ecu. Link being the choice as value wise it outshines haltech. Link supports e-throttle so I can delete the iacv too which is beneficial to me as it has been a bit faulty and cleans up my ffp install. How would I go about setting up the e-throttle and what is general used?

The d22 navara have similar internals. Unfortunately the input shaft is longer so you would have to space it back by use of an adaptar plate which also means modifying driveshaft, clutch line and shifter. You can't machine the input shaft to suit as cutting it down resplining isn't possible with the smaller od, as shaft tapers down past the spline.

Never ever, ever tee into the wastegate line. Get rid of this now, if the wastegate signal gets altered you can overboost the motor and blow it up. Tee it off the factory boost gauge line that goes onto the sender for the gauge. Or you should have a vacuum line going off the front of the throttle body hard to see from the photos but if you take a photo from this direction I can show you which one to use.

As previously mentioned I would first check out your turbo buddy and check it is in good condition. If it proves to be in good condition, I would get a radiator pressure testing kit. It will pressurize the cooling system and you will find where its leaking from. Make sure to take out spark plugs when doing this, as it may fill up the cylinder with coolant and you do not want it to hydrolock. Turn it over once the test is down with the spark plugs out to be sure.

Yes, I ordered the plenum took about 4-5 weeks to arrive. Have to say I am quite impressed with the quality of the workmanship definitely worth the money in my opinion. Everything fit perfectly, didn't even have to modify throttle cable. The only let down I've had is waiting on my turbo manifold to arrive and need to get intercooler pipe work finished off.

Ended up finding the culprit the right side bank cat was completely clogged I'm surprised the motor was able to run as well as it did. Replaced it with a hi-flow cat and idles perfectly.

Thanks everyone for their advice. I am very interested to know where I can get second hand haltech plug and play or a link g4 for 7-$800 because I've been searching everywhere. I have messaged slap regarding the Wolf 3D will just need to make sure my tuner can tune it. I quite like the HKS F-Con V3.3 ecu, has all the engine protection features/logging/rotational idle and heaps more and can get out of japan for $800 landed. Tuner close to me use to be hks authorised tuner still has software and can tune it for $550. His workshop specialises in evos but does tune a fair few skylines.

I don't believe VQ35 have IACV. They have e-throttle which controls idle.

My friend has a 2005 V35 Skyline 350GT. It has been stalling coming up to lights, but only if you accelerate quickly and then put the brakes on. The idle is shaky and feels like the car will stall. I know the Cam sensors have been replaced in the last 50,000km, from what I've read online the VQ engines quite commonly have issues with these and the symptoms this car is having is close to this. But I'm not sure as I don't believe there is a way to test this? I have pulled all the plugs out, nothing wrong on the ignition side of things. Compression is good at 180psi over all 6 with a variance of 5psi. Replaced with new plugs, and good coils same issue. Can not find any vacuum leaks, cleaned the MAF sensor and have replaced the fuel filter for good measure. The car has 175,000km on it is there anything I am missing to check?

I want to make sure I am not missing anything. I would really like to get rid of the MAF sensor and since my other thread have been researching ECUs. Theses are the only ones I can find for a budget: PowerFC L-Jetro: Standalone and have to keep MAF Sensor, possible to install R35 GTR sensor in cooler piping. I would prefer to stay away from MAF. This is currently installed in my car. PowerFC D-Jetro: Standalone and MAP based ECU, unfortunately can only find new at a cost of $1800AUD with all required sensors delivered. Not a great option compared to newer more available ECUs. Haltech Platinum Plug and Play: Standalone and able to go MAP based, cost $2095AUD plus requires other sensors benefit can control boost. However outdated and not really supported with the newer Haltech Elite. HKS F-CON V GOLD PRO: Great piggy-back ecu, able to go MAP Based, unfortunately only thing that lets it down is the software to tune it and most places want $500 for the software + $1000 to tune with it due to not being familiar. Is there any other budget solutions I am missing? I am leaning towards going with my PowerFC L-Jetro and using a r35 gtr MAF in the cooler piping.

You can get the factory injectors rebuilt.

Yes I understand that. But if you trace bottom rad hose up it goes to your thermostat housing. If this hose is still cold yet top hose is at 95 degrees something is wrong? Coolant definitely getting to thermostat no air locks and the jiggle valve is in correct position.

Just recently did a timing belt and water pump job on my r33 gtst. At same time I installed a new Nissan 76.5 degree thermostat. It was all installed following Nissan service manual. I have been bleeding it for over an hour. I filled up with coolant opened bleed screw until coolant come out. Then closed it and started car up with funnel on radiator. Has been running for about hour and a half and coolant in funnel is about 80 degrees Powerfc is showing coolant as 78 degree but the bottom radiator pipe is still cold where the thermostat is. Ive squeezed the pipe to try and help coolant flow through there. Is this normal and have I bled it correctly? Is it wrong to say that the car can bleed coolant using the coolant reservior?

Man I hate Rangers, maybe its because I work on them everyday. We get so many of the 3.2s come in because the don't self prime the oil when doing a oil change, heaps of people make that mistake trying to diy a oil change on them. Other than that they have a lot of auto transmission issues, manual clutch problems, even the 3.0l diesel motors weren't the best. I'm not sure why people think they're so good, maybe because they look good?

I feel like I'm over working on it, I did the headgasket about a year in a half ago. Only driven it 5000km since then and now it looks like headgasket is gone again, plenum is leaking vacuum, Z32 afm housing is cracked. Just super over it, it's old and if I keep it I'll have to replace everything. It's already cost me over 10k plus cost of car itself to get it where it's at now. Can't even drive it all the time.

Toyota is the best, but you pay a price for it. Mechanically triton/hilux are fairly similar, hilux having a bigger motor which is more unreliable than the 4d56 in the Triton. Triton I believe is just better value wise, and people don't give it enough credit. I have a Subaru forester atm as a daily, it's alright but I want something more suited to 4wding ?

I have been considering selling my R33 Skyline for a 4wd as I spend too much money on it and hardly drive it enough to justify it as there is always issues with it. I have been looking at buying a fairly new 4wd to daily and use recreationally, a good option at the moment looks to be a Mitsubishi Triton. What would you do and why?

Thermostat is suppose to open at 76.5, however it will hold temp at 80 degrees if cruising. Pull up to lights and it will climb from 80. Bottom radiator hose still cold. Reckon this is a result of bad thermostat or insufficient cooling fan (has been changed to a gktech fan). Might put a new thermostat in for good measure, is a genuine Nissan only purchased a couple months back.

My R33 GTST has been leaking oil from the turbo side of the block. To me it looks like it is weeping from the head gasket. There is oil higher up but not as much as what appears to be coming out of the headgasket. I have just changed the cam cover seals, and will brake clean the oil off tomorrow. I have also noticed that my coolant reservoir I need to top it up every couple of weeks loses about 10mm of coolant. Doesn't appear to be any leaks from hoses I can see, and the passenger side foot well isn't getting wet from coolant so is not indicating heater core is leaking. This leads me back to thinking the head gasket is gone, however no visible white mist from the exhaust? About a year and a half ago I did the headgasket using a Permaseal MLSR 86.5mm and ARP 2000 head studs, the head was decked and the block was cleaned and checked with a straight edge. Knowing that the block didn't have the right surface finish some Hollomar was used on the head gasket. Everything seemed to be fine until now.

What do you know is the cheapest ecu that can delete the maf sensor which works well with rb25?

Because in the r35 gtr they are used in the turbo inlet so are not under pressure from boost. Am I able to delete the MAF using a Haltech Platinum Pro or Link G4+? What'd be the cheapest ecu to get rid of it with?

R35 gtr sensor isn't designed to be used in cooler piping though? Is there any other options to delete MAF without spending big $ on a car worth 10k?

Do you put the r35 one in the cooler piping or before the turbo? My tuner said due to turbocharger having 4" inlet on the intake housing it won't work due to resolution. Does this sound right?