Joni Boi

Oh ok, I thought turbolight was good for your turbo or something lolz, I don't know much about engine oils. But I'll try get something full synthetic 10w-40 like junkie said

Hey guys I want to replace my engine oil in my R34 (RB25DET Neo). I've done some research on the best oils. Everyone has their own opinion on oils but the majority seems to be leaning towards the Motul Turbolight 4100 engine oil. So I went to a couple of stores to check if any has them in stock but na-da, nothing. Autobarn has 2 Motul oils which are 6100 synergie and 8100 x-cess. I asked one of the clerks at the store and he said that I should try Auto Pro, so I rang two Auto Pro stores and they both told me that Motul has stopped producing turbolights and that Motul has replaced it with Motul H-Tech 100 Plus. Is this true? Has anyone tried Motul H-Tech 100+? Is it really the replacement of turbolight and is it the same or better? Also, a store here in Perth has Motul 300V Chrono in stock which apparently is some high quality shit for if you're going to the races or something but it's $110 for 4L! And I only use my R34 as a streetcar and daily drives. I'm not planning on racing with it or going sideways. Will the 300V be worth it as a streetcar? Also, now that winter is starting should I look at buying a lower viscosity oil? What do you guys reckon?

Hey guys I made tutorial video on draining and replacing the coolant on a RB25DET aswell as changing the thermostat: I did it according to what the Nissan R34 Service Manual says. My first tutorial, so let me know what you guys think.

Never mind! I got it loose using a smaller 14mm length socket cos the first attempt with the longer socket didn't sit onto the bolt correctly (on an angle) How do I delete this topic? I will do a video tutorial on this coolant replacement.

Thanks for the reply! I just tried to loosen it and you're right, it's super tight! And I can feel the bolt stripping so i stopped. Why do they have to make it so hard for us to flush the coolant . I had the same problem on my previous car and just drained it from the thermostat housing but it's not a proper flush. Any suggestions on how to remove that drain bolt without stripping it other than welding a 14mm socket on to it?

Hey guys. I'm going to flush out my old coolant from the block that the previous owner had in this R34 GTT and put in new Nissan long life coolant mixed with distilled water. I'm just making sure if this is the coolant drain bolt from the engine block. Here's my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B41O2BuVp0A I'm pretty sure the bolt size is 14mm. I'll do a video tutorial on flushing the coolant as there are non on youtube for rb25det's. Can someone confirm this is the coolant drain block and I'll delete this topic. Cheers!

I bought this from autobarn I don't know if this is the right one, but I'll give it a try next time. Do you know if I need to mix anything with it like thinners?

Ok here's an update on my faded bonnet. I've sanded and buffed out the white cloudy oxidation (or what ever you call it) out of the bonnet and got it to look almost brand new, so I'll leave this here for other people to see. I wet sanded my bonnet with 1500 grit sand paper. It took ages for me to get deep enough to the damaged layer of the clear resin. So I went to bunnings and bought 800 grit sand paper and it worked much faster keeping in mind that I did not sand through to the actual carbon fiber. Only sanded it down to the shitty layer. It took me alot of hours to get it sanded down as this bonnet has alot of vents and od shapes After wet sanding it with 800 grit I then wet sanded it with 2000 grit sand paper. Then I let it dry and polished it with Meguiar's clear coat safe polishing compound. The next process was polishing it with Meguiar's scratch x 2.0 to get those little scratches out left behind from the sanding and buffing. Both of these were about $20-$30 a bottle at supercheap. I only needed 1 of each. Here's the finished results: I was planning to spray another clear coat on after sanding but the compressor I have does not work any more. I am going to sand it again and spray on a new coat when I get a new compressor for my spray gun. It's a temporary fix as the sun will eat through it again but I'm happy with the outcome.

Ok, thanks for the advice I purchased the car a month ago from someone. They didn't say where they bought the bonnet from, just got passed onto from the last seller. So I have no idea. I did manage to search a similar (or it might be this exact one) bonet online. http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store-90942/nissan-r34-gtt-z-tune-style-carbon-fibre-bonnet-detail Looks exactly like mine, so maybe it could be from here? Who knows "Made from high quality clear resin, carbon fibre and finished in a high gloss clear gel coat."

Cheers for that. This is the response I was looking for. I did try and polish the bonnet before you posted that comment. I bought Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 for about $20 at supercheap and buffed the shit out of it. There is still white cloudyness underneath the surface but shit.... it looks better than before. I am going to sand it down with grit 1000 or 2000 (are you sure 2000?). Then buff it with a cutting compound and then wax. I'll see what comes out of it the next time I have time. If it fails then I'll go to plan D and put a new clear coat on

Uh ok. I really thought I could buff this out my self with a special polish. Would you recommend a good panel beater that does this type of stuff? And how much would they charge?

You mean that's it? its f*kd?

Hi guys, I recently got back from holiday and saw that my carbon fiber hood on my R34 is fading and it looks really disgusting. It looks like the gel coat (or is it clear coat?) has been fading under the sun. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and could help me out on what products I can use to polish this out. It hasn't gone through to the actual c/b. The coat still looks thick. Here's a pic of the carbon fiber exposed on the end of the hood just to show how thick the coat ontop of the c/b is I'm not sure if it's gel coated or clear coated I would love to get it all shiny and have a reflection in it

That's exactly what I had in mind. I've never dealt with these things before, that's why it was odd to me. Yeah must that. Thanks guys

Yeah, I'm thinking of taking it apart and see whats what. Just seems odd why it would be located there, that's why I'm asking if anyone has seen this before.

Oohh really? I thought it would shut it completely

Hey guys, I just bought my R34 two days ago, it runs good and I love it. I noticed the previous owner had a APEXi ECV exhaust control valve fitted to the exhaust and control lever next to the hand break. I asked him about it and he said he hasn't connected it up. But the next day I looked under neath the car and saw it is connected but the butterfly valve isn't moving. That's not why I'm here though. I saw that the valve is located in the centre of the car's exhaust pipe. Normally they would be fitted at the end of the bore right? Have a look at the pics: From the other side (passenger side) My concern is if that butterfly valve were to close, the exhaust fumes have no were to go. Usually they fit these control valves onto the end of the aftermarket exhaust and have an extra hole behind the valve so when it closes the fumes are forced into that opening and will travel down the length of the muffler usually 3 times before it exits (so I've heard) and that makes the muffler silent. Does anyone about these things? Does that setup look right? I'm planning on making the valve work so it will be handy to use for when I'm starting my car at 5am in the morning so I don't wake everyone up in the neighborhood, or if a bored cop tries to follow me.