blackrb20silvia

i had idle bumped up round 2000rpm for some reason ??? so i just diconected the AAC valve prob solved (tried to clean it but still did not work???)

sweet also on the entry form where it says car number what does that mean? also club does that mean like a registered club?? as im not a member of any car club is that ok or do i need to be to enter??

can i enter my car its not a skyline ( but i wish it was i love RB

sorry didnt even notice that last post sorry mate

dont worry found it these are the rules (note..these are for NEW P1 and P2 drivers not existing) few.. thank christ there was no way i was selling my car for nobody http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/gettin...ons.html?lfid=1 and the list http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/licensing/downlo...itions_dl1.html basically all imports!!!

do you have a link to that page???

ezyout!!! though that means drilling a small hole dead center and using the ezyout and reverse it out though it prob in a real bad spot for that hey??

ohhh was going to pull just the cylinder shaped part off where there is only screw bolts holding it on so if i pull the whole unit off do i need to get a gasket or can i use just gasket paper to make a new one?

SSSautomotive COD to your door MR Gump cheers matt

yeah thats like me irratic idle when conected as for getting it off i almost striped the screw (stupid screws all should be bolts) but stoped before i stripped the head so im with you how do you get it off???? are there any tricks of the trade? and as soon as the son of a biatch comes out im replacing them with hex bolts that will teach them also i spoke to a auto elect round the corner he said it will be fine to drive without it conected the only thing its for is Air Con Ect.... also the only effect is that fuel economy will suffer (in his words "by a bees dick thats all") so all is good ill leave it disconnected cuz i dont have AIR CON and like i care bout economy i moddifyied it for a reason to go hard not to ***** foot around and cry bout fuel prices cheers matt

hey guys just a Q it think my AAC valve is stuffed i was driving for about 5 min all good the pulled up at the lights and was idleing bout 2000rpm so i drove home and checked everything all is good but when i pulled off the electrical clip to the AAC valve she idled normall my Q is can i drive the car with the AAC valve not conected or does it HAVE to be connected till i get a new one??? cheers matt

my rb20 does this to only sometimes but at 15psi its bad at 10psi there is nothing but i do have a big T4 turbo and have been told this seems like airflow meter cut, and its not coils these are brand new so sorry added another possiblity to your saga cheers matt

i still say this is THE BEST boost controller i have ever seen i cant get over it congradulations to simark87 for the design and engineering of the product this is my hands down the most bang for buck i have bought for the car also 100% reliable and effective and safe so if i have dialled in 15psi or 20psi thats all im going to get no more no less no spikes no shit congratulations!! matt

im out this goes beyond me

i was bout to say carbon canister!! lol have you traced where the hose goes?? ie.. does it go to the manifold or down under the car along the floor??

yeah i know lol for some reason we where trying to find what the nipple on the top of the externall gate did so i conected it to that first runn did nothing second with a full turn nothing third time again full turn nothing so put the tap in line on the bottom nipple and forgot to wind it back out very silly on my behalf just stocked how well the car ran at (over 20psi as my gauge only goes to 20) over 20psi not ping nothing it loved it right in the meat of the turbo efficiency the car loved it but i got a bit scared so yeah now at a hard and relaible 16psi i cant believe how well it holds boost like a rock!!

um tried it out tonight holy shit all i can say is get one everyone these are the shit i have not seen another device work as well as this first run was scary guage went over 20psi on the guage so dont know what boost but blew the intercooler hose off even with those big industrial clamps we hen i got it sorted it16psi boost came on slightly quicker but hit like a hammer and response is more defined now as well, but also when it hit 16 there was no spike nothing just sat at 16 and did not move up or down i am extremley happy with this everyone throw your old boost contollers away and get 1 of these

a question i have an external gate now it has 2 nipples on it now i just got one of these boost controllers and i know it has to go some where so where and what nipple does it go on bottom at the moment is connected to the inlet manifold so do i tee into that line with the boost tap the run the line from the tap to the top of the waste gate???

mate it all sounds so familiar but my car has been built from ground up again so ive never driven it before untill two weeks ago so for me it all seems part or the build but i was so stoked when i found that it was the coilpacks cuz lucky i had ordered 6 new ones from SSS automotive they where only $20 each but i know how you feel i thought it was my computer like the turbo was to big for standard but it wasnt just coil packs and plugs

shit like that is so frustrating but i tell you finding the problem and fixing it is like a orgasm....lol can the aac valve be taken out?? if so soke it in metho that will dry it out or if you cant take it out by a can of electrical cleaner that should also clean it but also dry it out but if you have driven the car after the clean the under bonnet temps should have dried out also coil packs can fry cuz they are electrical they can be damaged with out looking ****ed mine looked good to but after i got some new ones (second hand) made a real big diff and thay can go for no apparent reason like just out of the blue 1 of mine fizzled now it will hit full boost again and hit redline without a prob before would only hit 7 not 10 and would splutter after 5000 rpm apparantley very common

maybe this is your problem sounds like what happened to my car http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74465

ill say coil pack i had this prob a few days ago http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74038 i played round with the gaps (made them smaller) and changed all the coil packs now it is perfect

ok all i have maybe solved the problems concerning the turbo and computer previusly i would only be able to run 7psi on a 10 psi external gate spring now i thought this was wierd but was assuming that this was cuz of the cooler and the pressure drop i was wrong i had a slight miss at idle and all through the rev range so i changed over the plugs all brand new with less gap then before (was 1.1 now .8) and changed all the coil packs to new ones and now all solved boost now hits 10 psi hard and pulls all the way to limiter with out a splutter or shutter at all and no miss i cant believe how much a diff it made im in love again have not taken for a full hard drive but seems 100% better than before ill keep you all posted have to go for a long trip tomorrow so ill see how it goes but yeh maybe the turbo is perfect i know might even wind the fuel pressure up as well we will see how she goes thanks all who helped out with advice any more is also much appreciated cheers matt

sorry my mistake what you can see in the pic is a brake master cyl sorry its a nissan patrol and clutch master is a brand new gen nissan

clutch fluid is perfect its a nissan patrol master cylinder had to find a new master as i have installed ABS and finding a ABS master cylinder for a silvia is like finding rocking horse shit so i bought a new patroll one from nissan CAS is set at 15 degrees BTDC as per nissan specs is this correct where do you think it should be???? any one with a rough price on a first tune for any aftermarket computer ???