blackrb20silvia

ok first off when i posted there was no pic refering to the turbo flange bolts i posted bout the manifold studs which are M10 x 1.25 sorry to confuse also it is highly recomended that when removing the manifold studs or turbo studs that they are replaced 1 because of the huge amount of expansion and contraction in that area 2 the last thing you want is when torqueing the bolts up is one to snap in the head if you are re-using im sorry im just highly against reusing these bolts im not saying this to make money on it am i? i have had alot of bad experiance with manifold studs and it is well worth the time and the money to replace when ever you take it off or it can cost tripple the amount if you snap them in the head please consider this when you change them please what does a new head cost these days or the price of a helicoil kit or the labour of doing it what bout ezyouts well there not always ezy and if they snap too your in trouble sorry to go on i just dont want iwells to have to pay twice when things go wrong!!!!

hey guys im installing the rear main seal today on my rb20 just want to know what is the process and what materials do i use ie..rubber grease or something i need to do this today that is all i have to do before the engine goes in tonight and fire up tomorrow please help if you can????

well i could not find a ruler or a tape measure but i hope this helps tou out its bout 50--55mm something like that but i just bought some today must be replaced everytime you take the manifold off

from memory they are M10 x 1.25 manfold studs heres a pic

there can be many reasons why you have lost compression 1 yes the haed gasket let go...easy new head gasket then get a second opinion on the head take it to engine builder will cost $100 this will tell you the condition of the head trust me itll save you big time if there is nothin wrong also if there is it can be acuratly pin pointed not just a mechanics guess 2 yes a warped head ...get it decked but make sure it is warped refer to option 1 3 cracked ring...this will require a bore and a oversized piston i think the next oversize piston is 78.5mm or get a re sleeve us same size pistons 4 or a cracked piston skirt whch means bottom end in pieces 5 this can on forever and some things you wont want to hear as these are very unlikley basically work your way from the cheapest option and work backwards these probs can be very stressfull unless your mechanic is whilling to co-opperate and help you out rather than rip you off after all its all customer service and if your not happy with the chef you dont eat at his reatuarant!!!! get my jist

you bont need a part listing for exhaust manifold bolts take one out go to anyparts shop even an exhaust shop show them the bolt and tell them you want 12 easy as that

with the Q45 there is no way with those mods that you are maxing out your AFM get oyur car to a tuner and on the dyno and get your fuel and ignition checked and get them to test the AFM voltage and see if its reading correctly

get some metal gasket paper from parts suplier i used this on my custom dump and turbo setup same shit a manifold gasket bout A4 sheet like $20 i know they expansive but when you need the shit you need it right!!! luck its not a critical part...lol

all gaskets are avaliable from nissan genuinne genuinne gasket for manifold bout $90 studs are a must repalce at bout $3 each and about a good sunday at home with some tools, a sunday arvo with the right tools costa nothing dont be scared bout this instalation there really isnt anything that can go wrong

what car what mods what engine??? the mass airflow meter converts the amount of air drawn into the engine into voltage signal . The ECU needs to know int6ake air volume to calculate engine load, this is necessary to determine how much fuel to inject into the cylinder. this means that when the AFM runs out of scope there is no more fuel injected into the cylinder than there would be at full throttle so when the air flow meter reads full load its supplying the max amount of fuel so if the AFM cant read anymore air coming in it can not suplly the fuel for it to ignight so you basically run out of puff so what you will feel is nothing just wont make any more power but if the car is unmoddified you will never reach this point people if this is incorrect please let me know this is my understanding of the opperation of the AFM

did the same thing on thursday last week tourqed all inlet up to 9Nm last one just spun in the head them pop thought it was the wrench clicking off but nope!! snaped in the head stay away from ezy outs there nothing but trouble here is what i did a friend of mine made a jig used the cap as a guide made a dowell like object that sliped tightly into the cap taped it through the cap and slightly into the head the jig had a 3mm hole in the dead center once clamed with the cam cap in place with the other bolt drilled really slowly using inox to cool and lube the bit, thi step is done to drill the dead center of the hole other wise there is a chance that the bit will slip and you wont get center, because the bolt is hardened steel and the head alloy, alloy is much softer and the drill bit will prefer this once the 3mm hole is drilled get a hold of a M6 x 1.0mm hellicoil kit hire one if you have to itll save you alot of money, follow the steps drill out rest of hole with the drill bit attached then using the thread tapper cut a new thread all ensuring that you are going straight cut all the way to the bottom of the hole the slowly screw the helicoil into the new thread make sure you clean out the hole before you place bolt back in (another tip is, if you have 1 get a magnet hold it on the smaller drill bit and use the drill bit as a magnet and get all the fillings out, also use masking tape and tape over the area so no fillings get in the head) as for bolts use any hardened or high tensile bolt got mine from repco they are M6 x 1.0 35mm witha hardness rating of 8.8 these are common bolts they are the goldy collour ones spoke to an engineer they said thay are fine because of the tension they are at the reason i went this way is that once you have ezyouted the old bolt the thread is ****ed even if repaired has been weekened from the abuse it just coped helicoils are stronger than the original alloy, but i just like to be safe sorry this is such a long wined post but its something that i feel strongly bout

hey mate i work at bunnings, but my passion is cars im hoping at the start of next year i can move and start mech engineering so the things i know from one of my best friends who is a mech and has been for the last 10 years and would never second guess him, im just glad i have a friend who is willing to teach me and show me everything so im glad to pass it on aswell most gaskets in cars are going to be the same principle as most of the engine gaskets seps like it just depends on what the factory use, the substance its sealing and the force it has on the area. for eg you wouldnt use a paper gasket as a head gasket thats just common sense and sometimes you just have to make shit up like the dump pipe gasket i had to make, common sense says to use the same material as the exhaust manifold gasket so had to buy a sheet from repco and cut it up!!! things like that are simple

im unsure if this post is a question or a statement??? are you asking what youshould be using or what?? here is a list on what gaskets and liquad gaskets i used putting my rb20det back together 1..the sump-- no geniunne gasket-- used ultra blue (maxx blue by loctite) engine turned upside down old gasket scraped off with blade or use gasket remover make sure all gasket removed use wet dry sand paper and inox to sand off any left over gasket wipe dry and cleanbead the ultra blue round the sump smear and bolt back to the engine 2.. oil filter adaptor to block-- genuinne nissan gasket paper-- used aviation cement--scrap off old gasket with blade sand the surface back with wet dry, clean, apply aviation cement to both sides of the paper gasket and sealin place and bolt back to block 3..thermastat--gennuine nissan paper--aviation cement-- same as above 4..water pump--no genuinne gasket--ultra blue-- same as sump 5..all water and oil fitting to the block ei..oil lines water lines ect...--used a product called "STAG" jointing paste-- clean all threads dry and apply the paste to the threads with minimum amout possible,screw to the block, why not thread tape well you can but found this alot more reliable can be used for all oil, water, air, and gas, fittings also steam, kero, beverage and foodstuffs 6..plenum--genuinne nissan paper--clean all surfaces and dry, bolt together 7..inlet manifold-- genuinne nissan paper--same as above 8..exhaust manifold--gen nissan--metal compressed gasket--bolt the same as inlet 9..head gasket--gen nissan metal compressed--clean as before must be dry and oil freeplace on dowels to line the gasket up bolt on head and tighten in correct sequence to correct factory specs 10..cam shaft seals--has to be gen nissan--PBR rubber cemant--clean same as all above--applt rubber cement inside and out side seals push over cam shaft tap into place with over sized socket rub engine oil over them to pre lub them 11..half moon seals--gen nissan rubber-- same as above with rubber cement and oil 12..cam cover gakets--gen nissan rubber--same as above umm thats bout all i can think off any questions???

sorry to burst your bubble but i have a 49cc 2 stroke air cooled pocket bike i weigh like 93 kilos the bike top speed with me on is bout 55kmh flat chat dont get me wrong thats still fast but if you are like 50 kilos like my missus you prob clock bout 60kmh thats to say if its a real 49cc at all they are all claimed 49cc but when you pull down the motor and measure the bore ect.. some are only 37cc still fun though max kilos 120 as for hieght im 6.2 but are fun as hell parts are cheap like bullshit cheap and are highly modifiable and are alot cheaper on ebay!!!!!! mine cost $350 including postage took the front fairing off at the moment doing mods

cheers mate that helped so much to everyone else out there first download the Adobe READER 7.0 then download any of the manuals on the list thanks very much cubes you dont know how long ive been looking for this i owe you big time

r32 all workshop manual --- file damaged could not be repaired!

so where is that version??? all i have found are dead links to promises for workshop manuals some are not hosted anymore ect...

well not really omly need it for torque settings but if i cant get it ill use GTR settings no doubt these will be stronger anyway from what i have seen most on the head are a fraction tighter than the RB20 i have an old copy of a manual i found like 6 months ago but was really cut down version and prineted it of but some of the settings are printed so small they are not clear so if any one can help out i really need to know these settings or im going to torque my head up to GTR settings and prob break shit!!! LOL

hmm!! seems we have met in many threads before inissane?? hows the conversion?

hey guys im sur you are all sick of this question but im trying to find the workshop manual for r32 GTS-t (RB20det eccs) in PDF format for Adobe i have searched all forums but am getting really frustrated i need this very soon as in tomorrow but it would be always good to have it on file here anyway so if anyone can post a link or post the file or email me or PM me or something most threads are dead now and files and links are not avaliable anymore basically i need the head stud torque settings and the such as im puttung the head and everything back together over the next 2 days so any help with that would be great also i have the R32 GTR workshop manual in PDF format if anyone knows if this is the same sort of torque settings as the RB20 if people need the GTR manual tell me how to get it to you ill do it im here to help just as much as the next just let me know how to do it!!!!!!!!! Matt

if you look at the second pic under the filler guage there is a bolt which is like a sump unscrew and empty simple

ya i know but i wanted a stealth look and i can work round that as for the breather can it be tee'd into a line somewhere???

got this today looks great was cheap $120 from autobarn has removable top and yeah im happy with it

thanks mrZac what is your car dynoed at and how much torque im not after peak performance just strong performance and major reliability

change off plans not going for another 40 min um yeah i know but i have other things to get as well that i have to pick up and need to inspect first plus i get a night away from the missus thats the real reason um should i change the thermostat as well what other things like that should i change??