klutched

Nah I'd rather get it fixed properly so all I have to do is transbrake and go. I wasn't using the 2step last time as the stall speed was too low and wouldn't cut properly above stall speed.

Running a link g4+, we have a 2step set to 3800rpm but it wouldnt even get to that rpm on trans or foot brake...

Picked up a new set of mickeys last week and got em fitted, pulled the stupid traction rods out and replaced them with the stock ones. Even though they were both set at the same length the right side poked for some reason?! Got an alignment and they fit perfectly both sides now! Went on a safe camber at -1* incase it was my subframe that was offset but turned out to just be the traction rods. I can now pull them out to 0 camber but they hook perfect still. Might do it when I get the welds for even wear. So silly me didn't test the transbrake before going to the strip. Got there and it was only stalling to 2500rpm... End up running a 2.7 60ft cause it took ages to get onto boost. Only did one run and went home. So I have an exhaust leak and not sure if its the gate or not but I'm about to check it out. I kinda hope its the gate as I dont wanna pull the box out again and send the converter away just to have a few passes trying to crack a 10 then pull it out and get it changed for the new motor again.

Got it all going yesterday, new converter feels good. Doesnt jump onto boost like I thought it should but its definitely better. Hopefully enough to crack a 10. New temp gauge works good, and all gauges and dash match now with the white LEDs. Temp sits on 175*F which from what Ive ready is pretty good. Roll racing tonight, no mickeys so traction will probably be an issue in low gear. Hopefully this crappy brisbane weather stays away.

Cheers man, pretty excited Not gonna feel real until I'm a bit closer to putting it in I think ? Anyway finally got my converter back from TCE today and got the box back in. Almost done, just gotta pull the pan off and drill and tap for the temp sensor, put the tail shaft back on and plumb the cooler lines back in.

Will definitely be going for 8's with this setup. We will probably go a low 9 if all goes well on first outing and get booted until I get teched. Will hold off on cage and stuff for a while so I can enjoy it at happy laps and (no cage allowed) and get used to it on the street and once it's all teched go back and turn it up and see what happens Couple vids attached Snapchat-959310178.mp4 Snapchat-774016741.mp4

Correcto! Picked it up last night, jumped on it when I was told about it as I couldn't build a 30det for the price i got it for. So quick run down on the motor: Spool 3.4 stroker kit, upgraded L19 rod bolts, I beams, CP Pistons, Darton sleeves, drilled returns, smoothed casting. Head is a 25 head with solid lifter conversion, +1 valves, ported, dual springs, ti retainers, 270in 280ex cams. Also got ATi superdamper and Kulig Trigger kit, Genuine Greddy intake, Plazmaman rail, Bosch 1650 injectors (for now). Decided on a GTX4202r to strap to the side of it, wanted to go a PTE7675 but the Garrett is a lot cheaper. Still a lot of stuff to buy, he had a dry sump on it so Ive gotta get a pump and also head gasket as it has a 1.9 in there currently.

Any guesses to what it is?

I'll just leave this here ?

Not much happening. Still waiting for my converter back from TCE. Picked up my new wheel today and threw it on. Looks a lot nice inside now. Also got the ashtray to fill the gap where my boost gauge was! Been lazy and havent bothered to do anything with my speedo yet as I'm not sure which way I want to do it. Found out why my mirrors weren't working.... Fuse was blown under the dash, so swapped that out and hopefully when I put the dash back together they'll work again Fingers crossed my converter comes back this week and I can throw it in for the Easter long weekend.

Probably cause you put a 1.5mm HG on it lol. Wind the boost up. I'd put a 1.2 back in and wind the boost up for sure with a built bottom end. I'm running an old spec 3076 on a CRG mani external gate with fresh head and tomei poncams, stock S2 bottom end, only a 3" custom dump and exhaust and made 500.9whp on 20psi E85 through the manual, now 444.9whp through the glide.

So got some new stock suspension and pair of headlights off a wrecked S2 with 74000kms on it. Picked the lot up for $400 which is a steal compared to what they sell for on ebay etc. Also getting the steering wheel from it next week which is in mint condition! Heres a few pics from mine to the new ones, cant really see the spider cracks in my lights (lower ones). Looks heaps better under the bonnet now... added a couple red blingy bolts around the place as well. I cant wait to respray the bay....

Haha just a nismo GTS dash. Redline is 6.5 and no boost gauge not that I can use it anyway. Picked up my mates weld to try it on. Result was what I expected, too much +offset. Would have sat in there really nice if it didnt hit the shock. Still had another 10mm before it was flush on the hub as well. So will be ordering the 15x8 +51 which should sit in there nicely. This is how the new wheels will sit compared to my 18s and my GTR wheels. Green is new wheels.

LED's arrived so I put them in. 10x better than the standard ones. Bit annoyed it doesn't light up the tacho needle better. Converter only just got picked up today... Was booked in for Tuesday but they never showed.. Should be down with TCE monday and hopefully get it back by the end of the week. Welds in the size I think I need are 2-3 months wait atm... So in the meantime I'll get another pair of 16s to play on atm.

So bit boring not being able to drive the car so decided to do a bit of wiring. Got the trans gauge all wired in and working. Just need to pull the sump off when the box is back in and tap a 1/8 NPT thread for the temp sensor. Also pulled my dash apart as well. The stock dash bulbs are pretty dull and I can't see the RPM needle very well. Have ordered some White T10 LEDs to replace them which should hopefully fix that problem. Another thing I have to do is fix my speedo... Not sure if I should just get a speedo corrector from Jaycar or rewire it though the Link to the dash.

You sure it's the switch? Mine did the same thing and realised the rubber pad that the switch touches had broken and come out. Now have a bolt in there instead.

Not anymore, they have an a/c kit now to use with their race series damper.

Hahaha I wanna go faster not slower ? Once you've done it a few times you learn a few tricks. The manual was harder to do trying to get it to seat through the twin plate.... In saying that doing the converter bolts up isnt fun but atleast thats after the box is in.

Hahaha 2.5 hours had the box out by myself ? Auto makes it a bit easier not having to pull the interior apart.

Pulled the box out today so I can send the converter off to TCE to get adjusted to suit my setup. See what they say but I reckon we need to bring the stall speed up from 3800 to 4200. Oil that came out was clean as. Oil and trans gauge came as well. Gonna try my mates welds on sometime this week so I can order a rear set. His are 15x9 +63 but I think that will be waayy too much so I'll see how they fit and maybe go to a 15x8 +50 depending how my mates fit.

This is my graph, ran 11.6 @126mph with manual, 11.2 @124mph with powerglide (did run a 126mph). RB25DET, Tomei HG, ARP Headstuds, Gt3076r-wg, Tomei 256 drop ins, Custom 3" dump, decat, 3" cat back with muffler, 45mm Hypergate, CRG Manifold.

So starting to prep for roll racing next Saturday. Have ordered 20L of gearbox oil and a Turbosmart trans temp gauge. Also going to look at putting a 25 or 30 row cooler with a 7" thermo on it to replace my 19 row. Was going to run twin coolers but I don't want to mount it infront of my rad as my intercooler is already heating it up a tad... I really want MT Street R's as they have less belts in the sidewalls than the S/S so better bag and crinkle resulting in better contact patch. Only thing is I need some 15x8/9 around +40. Still have a bit of room between tyre and shock and these are 9.5 +38. If I can't find anything i'll have to get another set of S/S's for roll racing and head back out to the drags. Also my crank collar came, have a second one if anyones interested $80.

I'll be running them in my new motor. Still about a month away from being available. They're a 264/272 10mm VCT combo! They should be an awesome cam if you're chasing decent numbers. First cam that I know of that is more than 9mm lift while still retaining VCT. Downside is it's obviously not going to be a drop in cam with 10mm lift, so head clearancing will be required.

Maybe wait for Kelfords new cam coming out soon Might be a little bit big for you though.

Good work ? still heaps of time to gain from the 60ft! If you can get it to sub 2sec it will go low-mid 12s which should be easily doable on the mickeys.