klutched

Sorry TCU - TurboLamik, the HTG ones are referred to as GCU. TCU is here, need to spend some time and start working on her now

TCU is enroute, should be here on Monday. Have just paid for a transmission locally, they've got to pull it out of the car and should be with me on Friday. Just getting little bits and pieces I need for wiring. Thinking about using a small bulkhead connector to run the transmission wiring through the tunnel as the trans plug is quite big. So all going well i should have the box dummy fitted up next weekend and start wiring.

Not much happening lately. Dropped the motor down to my machinist/builder on Monday so he'll get cracking on that. Started putting the interior back together as well. Still need to go through the wiring and remove the HICAS stuff as it isn't needed. Decided I'm not gonna cut up the boot now so I'll just weld a few holes I dont need and then give it a spray of black. Have just ordered my TCU, hopefully arrive here in a week or two. Will have a look at gearboxes next week and try and sort something out. Once I get them here I'll dummy fit them on my old block in the car and start wiring it all up, do the mecatronics mod on the trans, sort out a tailshaft and make up cooler lines. Will keep everyone posted

Thanks mate, its very shit to do especially by myself 😂 I haven't yet, will get around to it hopefully sometime this month. How did you contact them? I think best way is to email [email protected]

The old girl's been a bit neglected lately! Haven't touched her since my last post, have been busy with reno's. Might turn into @Dose Pipe Sutututu's thread 😂 Garage exterior is almost finished, windows in, cladded and new downpipes hooked up. Just need to paint the downpipes, finish off trim around the door and work out some sort of flashing to go down the bottom on the concrete to repel water from going underneath. Other than that has come up pretty good! Also decided to render the front of the house and give it a bit more of a modern look. Will get painted in a couple weeks once its all totally set. Will eventually go around and do the rest of the house when I can be bothered 😂 Other than that, I have my block back from getting the billet mains machined! Will drop it off to get the rest of the machining done and assembled when we get back from Fraser. Heard he's backed up atm so might be a little while off Will give me more time to sort 8HP stuff in the meantime.

https://youtube.com/c/ZeroTo60Tube

Nope I will be going TurboLamik. 0 to 60 have done a couple now and seem to be going well straight out of the box bar a little settings that have been recified now. Interesting, I wish motec would just bring something out that could control 8 gears. Bang an M150 in to control engine and trans would be an epic package!

Yeah I'm keen to see how it goes. If you guys have seen already check this out. HTG controlled but 8HP none the less. Have talked to the owner and he said tuning the HTG was a pretty big job. You could probably adapt the paddles to it no doubt but I would prefer to have them on the wheel for ease with corner shifting easier rather than trying to search for the right paddle with the wheel turned.

Not too much happening on her lately. I got around to making up a bracket for the BMW shifter. Unfortunately to get it to fit nicely I had to cut the tunnel a little bit. Undecided if I'm going to run an auto or manual shifter surround yet. Hard to find a nice auto one and on the other hand the manual shifter boots dont have a clip on them to be able to go over something bigger. I also made up a new bracket for the bulkhead connector We had a lot of rain a couple of weeks ago up here in Brissy. Opened her up and found mould all through her Should've cracked the sunroof or windows... Have been busy extending the garage lately so have just been airing the car out. I stripped most of the interior out and borrwed my mates karcher extractor and gave it all a good clean. Came up heaps better than it was. The stuff coming out of the carpet was gross! Today I worked on mounting the new Setrab trans cooler up front. I wouldve really like to mount trans and oil cooler up under the boot to move some weight back but was advised against (engine oil anway). I moved onto the boot and removed my surge tank setup, battery tray, hicas controller and wiring and marked up all the holes that I want to weld up. I did mark it up to cut the wheel well out but have decided too much effort. So I'm just going to clean it all up, weld the holes up and give it a couple of coats of paint and try and find a good boot interior to put in it. Once the boots all done then I'll start putting the interior all back together. Also had a look at the steering wheel for adapting paddles on it and looking at it theres 2 spare wires that run through the clock spring. If I can pick up a ground on the wheel and send it back through it means I can mount paddle shifters on thr wheel instead of with the stalks! For anyone interested, Powertune will sell you their paddle shifters for $1100 but it's not wheel mounted.

Looking at downsizing from my 7685 down to a 6870 or G40-1150 to help keep the new box setup alive 😂 6875 was in the mix but as stated above, no twin scroll housings. Not sure if 6870 1.32 would be too small on a 3.4 or to step up to a 6875 .96 regardless of TS housing.

Yeah for sure! I'm predicting it to be around the 12-13k mark in the car driving. That's with me doing all the work, ie: install, wiring, lines, mounting etc. Still undecided what I'm going to do for a tailshaft yet, go to a full custom one piece item or mod a factory shaft to suit. Would be nice to get something thats a bit lighter and stronger under there. Just about finished up a harness for an R31 Skyline RB30, Haltech Elite 750. Just waiting on a couple of connectors to turn up. Full Tefzel, Raychem DR-25 "street" harness. Turned out pretty nice, makes me excited to go all out building my own one. Also got the crank pulled out of the new block today. Oxy wasn't able to budge the crank gear at all so we had to resort to drilling and splitting the gear to get it off. So block will be getting dropped off tomorrow to be machined for the billet mains and girdle. Once that's done off to my engine builder for machining/resin/assembly. Head will also get dropped off to get checked over, clearance for new cams and setting up clearances. Probably get a light resurface to get it perfect to go back on. Should have it all back in the next month or so then onto sourcing a box and TCU. Forgot to mention I also picked up a new trigger kit, black and also 12T crank trigger. So my old one will get put up for sale soon along with my Link G4+ plugin ECU. If anyones interested shoot me a PM!

Not a lot happening lately, have been away for work a little bit and now covid the last week. I got out into the shed on wednesday and finished pulling my block down. The new block Ive gotta get an oxy onto the crank gear as its about rusted on. Will be dropping the head and block/s down to builders hopefully this week coming and get some more progress going. New Kelford cams arrived and also got some CA625 head studs to beef it up a little. I ordered some gearbox adapter parts as well that arrived a week and a half ago from HPR Tuning in Norway! For you other guys looking at doing this swap definitely talk to Helge from HPR about getting yourself a bolt in 8HP kit! It came with everything that I needed which worked out awesome and save some time custom making stuff up. The quality of products is second to none and will be worth every bit once its bolted all up Have got some pics below of a bit of billet goodness 😍 Their billet oil pan, comes with gasket and new modified filter to suit the new extended pan. The R33 bolt in kit came with the bell housing adapter, flywheel, trans crossmember, gearbox mount and bushes and I optioned in the driveshaft adapter. Saved me using a stock flexplate with an adapter behind it to go to the converter or getting a custom one made up. Last bits are the oil cooler adapter and the install board and cover instead of soldering wire in the mekatronics unit. Still need to order the TurboLamik. Not sure if anyone watches zero to 60 on youtube but their swap gets me keeen!

I feel offended 😂 35psi ~4300rpm +/- 1000hp ~ 5100rpm-7800 +/-

Had some bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the last week. BMW shifter out of a 6 series, new setrab 25 row cooler with spal, and I ordered new center console and shifter surround as I had cut my factory one up to fit the glide shifter so I sold it with my box. Domiworks gearbox adapter is currently being made up, will have to get a custom flexplate made up as we can't get it to fit with a yellaterra flexplate without making the bellhousing adapter wider. So that and the install board and 8hp connector should be here in the next couple of weeks. Also put new brake lines in a few weeks back now. Wanted to clean up the bay a bit more and hide them/mount them a bit better. Just hoping the route I've taken doesnt get heated up too much by the dump pipe. Glide is also now out and waiting to be picked up by the new owner in a couple of weeks when I get back from Fraser. Hopefully when I get back ill get cracking on interior and mounting the new shifter.

Should be fun, hopefully goes together alright. I went with the TurboLamik TCU. Lots of guys ive talked to have run GCU and nothing but problems and switched to TCU. So hopefully be pretty straight forward and get it running nice. Everyone reckons its basically a plug and play unit with minimal tuning needed. They preconfigure it to your car before its sent out.

So rolls didnt happen. Got my car all done, aircon regassed, alignment, wheels balanced. Took it home to check everything the next morning, opened the radiator and there was some oil in the rad cap. Dropped the oil and there wasnt any water so all was good. Dropped the rad and it was a bit of a milkshake party. End up pulling the motor out that night. Still not sure where the oil was pushing into the water. Will get the head all checked out and decided to sell my cams and go to a set of kelford 270/274in 280ex 10.5mm lift. The block had a couple of cracks on the deck but nothing that I could see would mix the oil into the water. Motors now stripped down, just need to pick up another block and take it to my builder and get it all checked/machined/assembled. New cams should be here sometime this week so I'll be able to send the head away to get checked and setup for the new cams. I have also sold my powerglide in order to fund a zf 8hp swap with goals to make the car more streetable and comfy to drive while still being able to maintain some drag racing functionality. We'll get the car back up and running and leave it on wastegate and focus on getting the box setup perfectly then we will add some power to it and see how it goes. Goal is to just drive it a lot more and be able to take my family out in it and cruise on the highway in 8th gear at 2000rpm while remaining fairly quiet. I have ordered shifter, TCU, domiworks adapter and bits and pieces and a new 25row setrab oil cooler/spal fan setup.

Hahaha you love it 😘 its just easier than saying 4.4562kg/mm or whatever it is😂 Yeah mate, factory with cherry sensors used. I put an ABS hub on the front and used the factory hole on the diff but I have nismo ABS half shafts

Well I've finally got the shocks in, did a few mods to them to get them to work better (hopefully). They had 250lb 12" front springs, and 14" 200lb rear springs. I swapped them around so now have the 14s on the front and 12s on the rear which should make it easier for the nose of the car to lift and transfer weight to the rear. Front shocks required the shock mount to be machined down a bit so I could get a few threads on to tighten them. The rears I lopped off the original shock mount and bolted them straight to the original shock mount with a spacer there because it was about an inch higher than where i wanted it. Had raychem dr25 and scl turn up so I got cracking with wiring up the new wheel speed sensors, I also rewired the pinion sensor on the diff. That's all hooked up and working just need another xsloom for the ecu and I can wire up the wheel speeds. Roll racing this Saturday. Few things left to do, wire up wheel speeds, alignment, ac gas and balance the rear tyres. That should be about it. Going to be cutting it fine

Not much happening on the 33 lately. Was back up at fraser for a week and got a couple last minute mods done on the nav. Picked up a front bar and front EFS coilovers and managed to get them fitted for the trip. Was a busy week 😂 Bar was silver with black hoops so I stripped it down gave it a clean and started painting it with the cheapest paint I could find (export) 😂 it actually came up pretty good for an afternoon rattle can paint job. Another good week was had up on the island, fishing was better than the last trip which is always good. Got a new shimano vanford combo for fathers day which was awesome fun. Few windys days but other than that it was 👌 Busy weekend this weekend aswell, picked up a new gym to get back down to a reasonable race weight. Pulled everything out of the shed and finished putting the old flooring down. Rearranged the shelving a bit and managed to fit the gym in there. Also finally picked up my viking shocks that came out of a mates car. Stripped them down and gave them a wipe. Fronts need new bushed up top and one needs a new spherical bearing down the bottom. Rears the upper mounts are a bit eh, they'll work but might put them in and see how it sits then maybe look at going to a nicer billet top. Either way should be a night and day difference over my $350 coilovers 😂 Hopefully more progress soon

Yeah correct, have been told this contraption will divide the frequency. I believe you can set it up to divide 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. Cost a few dollars to setup each one so I'll give it a whirl and see how it goes otherwise I'll just have to deal with whatever speeds they give me. Currently 24teeth on the pinion with 3.69 gears, which is about 88 counts per rotation of the wheel and we're getting about 130-140km/h. So technically going to the 46 teeth should give me about 1.9 times more speed which will be almost what I need. Not 100% sure if thats correct though, but I'll find out and maybe only have to divide it by 2 which will be plenty if that calc is correct.

Yeah I'm thinking about that, not sure what I need to divide on hall sensor though.

Not too much going on last week. Got the fitting welded on for the IACV so that's all plumbed up now. Just gotta get my mate to do his magic with it. Currently I'm running wheel speed off the pinion which maxes out around 130-140km/h which is less than ideal. Have ordered an ABS hub and a couple of cherry sensors to get wired in for driven and undriven wheel speeds. Not sure how I'm going to go with the factory abs ring as theyre 46 teeth which will only allow me to go down to 23 teeth. Might be time to ditch the G4+ and go something newer.

There's nothing wrong with that, but we need to check that it's actually correct. We were expecting it to be a lot closer than it is especially at 35psi. If its right then we can continue adding boost in 🙈 Throughout the mulitple boost levels we have seen a 12-13psi difference so be interesting to see whats going on. 😂😂 yeah I think I'll wire the reverse lights off its own relay and see how we go

Thanks mate. Yeah I definitely put that one in the too hard basket 😂 I might have another look at it later on if it keeps leaking. Got the fittings I needed to hook up the IACV and made the lines up. I pulled the bumper and cooler pipe out this arvo so I'll hopefully take it to my mates to get welded sometime this week and get it all back together... for now. Ordered a 3 way pressure sensor block to relocate all my sensors off the motor and all in one place. With that means ill have to rewire the sensors. So thought why not just rewire the engine loom with a bulkhead on the firewall and wire the stock loom on the inside and new tefzel/raychem on the outside. Which means if/when I get a new ecu I just have to rewire to the inside. Have started listing what I'm going to need for it. We put her on the dyno last wednesday to give it a tuneup after the manifold change. We now have boost down at 23-24psi on gate pressure which churned out about 670rwhp. Turned it up went around 780rwhp on 30psi and 873whp on 34-35psi. Need to sus out the emap because we are getting 23psi EMAP on 35psi boost. Dynos running new software which is probably why its down a bit to last time. But theres also an issue with the torque reading, was saying it was making 530ft lbs at 35psi 😬 anyway its all tuned up pretty good and on multiple boost levels so I can play around with boost myself now. Loaded in a boost curve so when its back together ill be able to test and see how it goes bringing it on like that. Also need to investigate whats going on with my reverse lights coming on through the run. They are wired in with the transbrake so I hope its not back feeding and trying to engage the transbrake through the run.... 20210804_175037.mp4 20210804_183210.mp4

EMAP is all wired up now as well as the IACV, also fixed up fuel pressure wiring was looking a bit shitty. Mounted IACV today, difficult to find a spot to suit with the hoses to come off it. Just need to get a few fittings and a weld on and I can plumb it up. Been busy working on the house lately last few days. Pulled up all the floor boards in the bedrooms as we're going carpet which gets installed on monday. Painted the skirting boards to match the rest of the trims and had a couple door frames to do as well. Counting down the days until I dont have to get out of bed onto a bare concrete floor 😂 Spare boards have gone into the shed though. So much nicer to roll around on now. I think I might do the rest of the shed at some stage when I can be bothered taking everything out 😂