Dev RB25

regarding the checklight, since the management was jst done, it could be a wiring issue, is it a standalone or piggyback ?

new motor, new coil packs, new ecu, new plugs, but same prob... maybe its somewhere in the fueling, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, or even the fuel itself. If you have a buddy with a wideband, and if ur ecu (not familiar with spittronics) can do datalogs, this would be quite handy to help see what is actually happening when the power loss kicks in. if you melted a piston i believe you could have a severe fueling issue or spark. and you covered alot on spark...

suppp fellas...turns out i had air in the system and thermostat is fine.... thats a relief.. got my z32 afm..havent installed it..plan to do that only when im changing the turbo,injectors and do it all at once. anyone here tried the holset hx35/40?

yeah, im gonna get a new ratchet socket set with extensions. perhaps im not equipped with the right tools.. yeah there is a bolt at the top to hold the dipstick connected to the intake... i can remove that, but i was a little worried about pulling the dipstick tube out. Abt the altenator, from what i was thinking, if i remove that gives me a lot of space to get that bolt out, but as highlighted by Trex, i might not have the right set of tools, so im gonna get some new ones and see how that works out. Before i do the dipstick and lat move. When you say correct tools, may i know if its an ratchet socket with extension? i am planning to do a timing belt,waterpump,idler, tensioner change. but as of now i dont have a torque wrench...im waiting to get that first before i do the replacement. how often do you guys have difficulties getting the crank bolt off? i mean, i dont have an impact gun, i should be able to get it out with a breaker bar+cheat bar + gear on 4th... im a bit worried as i read a few guys having a problem at the crank bolt... Splitfires hmm, alright... so maybe i should try to get a cheaper turbo and make way for coil packs... ive seen some of the power numbers here, based on their setup.. not many mentioned abt coil packs being a must.. z32 definitely see them in most setups.. i dont rape the clutch often...hahaha ... i guess i can get that at another time.. ill focus more on the power upgrades first and see how that clutch handles.. when burping the radiator, how long do you guys leave the car running ? this is what i did, open the bleeder, filled her up. started the car...topped up...left the bleeder open..lots and lots of bubbles then after a while didnt notice any bubbles so i closed it....left the radiator cap open...water started getting real hot at the top hose..abt 15 minutes..oem temp gauge at 1/3... with the cap off..i could see it was getting real hot as well.... at 1 point i could feel the bottom hose felt a lil warm but def not hot. Shouldnt the thermostat have opened by then ? water started spitting out of the radiatorat that point so i switched it off. Should i leave the bleeder screw off longer? and refit the radiator cap ?

anyone care to shed some light for the thermostat removal ? should i bend the dipstick or just remove the alternator

thats nice power ! more or less what im aiming for.. ill check out those turbos and get a z32 afm ready before i install all of it and get a tune. when i shut down the engine, there was like a temporary gush of hot water that came through. yea i did open the bleeder and filled it with water. it was slightly tilted not jacked. now abt replacement and removal..im a bit in a jam here.. i cant seem to reach that inner bolt... i read somewhere that you gotta bend the dipstick ? is this a common workaround ? any other ideas..? the only way i see possible is remving the whole alternator to get some access. the clutch is fairly new, ill guess ill burn it and change when its due... the z32 afm it is...

Sup fellas would really like some input on quite a few matters. RB25DET S2. 1. Alternator/waterpump/fan belt snapped, i drove for abt 5 minutes..while the temp gauge was 3 quarters, it was a cool clear night, maintaine at abt 30-40kmh back home. Replaced my ps,ac and alt belt while i was at it. Performed a flush on the radiator (very very rusty) since i had it removed. Now as i was filling the system, i noticed my thermostat was slighlty opened even at engine shutdown. I filled water from the top hose, started the car, blasted the heater, kept my garden hose at the top till full waiting for thermostat to open, water started getting pretty hot but thermo didnt open, so after abt 10 mins or so.. i switched the engine off and noticed as i switched it off, a surge of hot water came out the of the thermo...so i was thinking ah, it opened...i started it up again, and same thing happened.. I know it would be easier to just remove the thermo and test it right? but for some reason i cant seem to access the thermo inner bolt. the dipstick is in the way and so is one of the heater hose, and its just too damn tight,. Is there something im missing here or lack of tools? from where i see it, only possible way to reach that bolt, is the remove the whole altenator to get access to that inner bolt. Any one faced a similar issue? Here is where im a little puzzled, at the end when it opened, from a surge or pressure build, if my waterpump was fully functioning....it should techically be able to push more water out of the system when i started the car sinced the thermo was slightly opened... but this didnt happen. Im thinking if my waterpump is f**ked.. 2.My rsm detects 50rpm randomly, on ignition, with engine off. Any idea why its getting a signal ? 3. at the moment, my setup is pfc, fpr, walbro fuel pump, fmic, 3" exh , rest are stock, stock turbine, stock internals, stock clutch. Was thinking of getting a garret gtx28 , now does my list sound about right for what i need. -bigger injectors (what injectors you guys normally go for) -exh manifold - and a tune plannign to keep the boost at 1.2bar / 17psi since on stock internals. is the z32 afm a must? and will the stock clutch be able to cope?