R33 Jared

Appreciate it!

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After swapping the S1 motor out of my R33 and crating in a S2 RB25 and installing it (7 months ago), I was left with a couple of mystery items, this one specifically. Someone please refresh my memory.

Just to follow up on this post; I finished re-installing the RB25 back to it's original form tonight. I am running the stock R33 Airbox and snorkel, stock RB25 T28, stock turbo inlet pipe, no FMIC/SMIC and modified the heat shield from the aspirated headers to hide any elements of the turbo. Has a 2.5" X-Force so the turbo sounds are manageable and tomorrow I will inspect the plugs to see if any detonation has occurred. Thanks for the tips from everyone.

Appreciate your response, I had a feeling I was going into this setup in the dark. It's only for a few months so maybe the RB25 turbo is the appropriate temporary solution until I can safely put my GT30 back on it.

Can't wait to get grilled. Can't wait. SCENARIO: I have an R33 GTS-t which 2 years ago I converted to a complete Aspirated setup (L Plates). I now have a daily which I use 99.9% of the time but I still enjoy my R33 on odd occasions. I want to revive my RB25 back to it's original turbo form because I'm still absolutely in love with the R33. [Keeping in mind I'm still a Green P Plater (19y.o.)] - When I do this: > No FMIC > RB20/RB25 turbo depending on which turbo has lowest chance of detonation on my RB > Have a heat plate rigged up to hide the turbo as much as possible > Will run the lowest psi physically possible I've never lost a demerit point for speeding, that's not why I want to run the turbo. I'm not interested in performance increase/decreases, I'm interested in having my R33 back in it's beautiful original turbo form with the health of the motor at 100% consideration. I drive the car to the beach on the odd occasion maybe once a month, that's the only use it gets. Thanks for reading, someone please respond from a thermodynamics perspective.