bazr33

30 bucks.. if you want it. if not will be paperweight.

bringing up a pretty old thread here but was curious if this issue ended up getting resolved? may not be able to get an answer, just noticed half of the members that responded and created the post having been on here for quite a few years.

Is this happening everytime you drive the car. Or intermittently? mine wasn't going into overdrive (4th) but was able to turn car off back on, then it would be fine. After that, i had changed filter and put fresh fluid in. seemed to be okay after that, however one hot day it did it once. From what i have read, it can be low fluid level, solenoids, speed sensor can throw it (from memory) or yeah the gearbox could be on its way out. Hadn't taken mine to a trans shop as for them to test, it would be hard as it probably won't do it when its there.

f**ks me what’s going on.. whether it will lead to intermittent shit.. old wiring.. bad contacts.. but got it working.. whether I did some sort of reset.. but will wait for it to f**k out again.. see what happens IMG_2300.MOV

So contacts on switches - if going up on one is stuffed then both switches wont operate the window to go up? Sorry my electrical expertise is not the greatest. I have spare switches at my old mans place, so can try them and see what happens. Will have a squiz at the switches too and see condition. also got spare relay too. so will try those two things and see what happens.

I would of thought the likelihood of both drivers and passenger side switches that operate the passenger window to go up, to be faulty/dirty/burnt/broken to be slim. but not to say that it has happened. Plus the other thing that didnt make sense, is the switch on the passenger door, i had put multimeter on the plug to see that 12volts was getting to the regulator and both going up and down did register 12 volts. Might see if i can locate new switches anyway. But i guess. could there still be possibility of the relay causing a similar issue?

Hey guys, Haven't posted in a while and bit disappointed that it isn't on better terms but don't believe it is a major problem. Just wanted to query whether anyone has had similar issue to what i am experiencing with my power windows. Currently, Drivers side window works perfectly, no issues, goes up and down all day, however the passenger side - i had intermittent issues with window not wanting to go back up. Window will go down fine, but will not go back up. There were a couple of days where it would then wouldn't go back up. Things i have tested and done: Changed plug from harness that connects to regulator as it was a bit corroded looking - no change tried another regulator, which had been tested with direct power - works perfectly - fitted it and no change Also then put direct power to regulator i had pulled out initially and it is fine. Both switches from driver side and passenger side will operate passenger window to go down, but not back up. Fuse is obviously okay, as nothing would work if it was blown. My query is and next thing i am going to check is the window relay (black box in drivers door): Can this be a possible cause of window going down but not back up and have not affected drivers window? Any help is much appreciated. i just guess it would give me a bit of reassurance if someone has been in exactly the same boat and confirmed the relay was stuffed.

bump 40 bucks. not needed. come grab it

bump 40 bucks. Not needed.

bump

Anodised blue top feed fuel rail for sale 50 bucks cheap quick sale not needed located Redbank Plains, Qld

Anodised blue top feed fuel rail for sale 50 bucks cheap quick sale not needed located Redbank plains

Looks like the tps and soldering wires as opposed to twisting them has done the trick.. All those posts that I had seen where people having auto issues, not locking, or not going into d4 with overdrive on.. Check out your tps first.. And read the gearbox link I had included.. will rule out a hefty bill replacing shit where it may not be the cause at all..

So if anyone is to come across what is in the picture on my post. That is the Dropping Resistor for the auto box.

So bit more of an update. I had a spare THrottle position Sensor, and a previous shit attempt at re-wiring a new plug onto it ( previous plug was f**ked) Noticed that i had only twisted the wires together, and wasnt the best connection. So i had re-wired the throttle switch plug wires - ( the one that has A/T control) soldered and heat shrinked. TPS set at .48v - may require to adjust idle slightly as its now idling at 1000rpm, but car seems to be running okay so far. Will give it time though as the issue with it not going into 4th was intermittment. Thanks for the responses. But yeah if all fails. will be looking for manual conversion kit.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjPitr5sc7fAhWCfrwKHZp3BPoQFjAAegQICRAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ukrtrans.biz%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Fcatalogs%2FRE4R01A.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3kVCvs_s2Cih1f-hNZ0dZM Hopefully this link works. but its appearing to be quite handy with troubleshooting some crap with the awesome automatic gearbox.

yeah reading up on it earlier i had located some info that mentions this. Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor and solenoid valve are together as one unit, and are installed to the solenoid body. Hopefully its not this, but something that i will be able to complete myself. i have only had the pan off the transmission off like 3 times already within the last month. Whats another time.

So from some information that i have located, leads me to believe that the temp sensor is located on the valvebody. So immediately i thought f**k yeah, if mine is f**ked as that will be fun to change. The reason for my query, is that my gearbox is registering a fault somewhere, where it goes into 'limp mode' and wont shift into D4, when driving with overdrive switch ON. The simple turn the car off and back on though resets it and i am fine after that. But as you can imagine, its quite dangerous, especially if you are on the highway and nowhere to pull overly safely. Fun times. So with my current issue the troubleshooting manual i have found indicates the probable causes in order as follows below: 1. Throttle Sensor 2. Inhibitor switch 3. Revolution sensor and speed senor 4. Shift Solenoid A 5. Overrun clutch solenoid 6. Control valve assembly 7. Fluid temperature Sensor 8. Line pressure I am glad the the most probable things are the easiest to change, and hopefully it will be sorted before i get to number 4.

Hey guys, Hopefully someone is able to assist me or point me in the right direction, as to where the ATF Temp Sensor is on a R33 GTST? There is a possibility that mine is rooted, and trying to locate one to purchase, and also will require to know where it is located on the box. Information seems a bit difficult to find. Or i am using the incorrect words to search.

get rid of the twin setup. had a t04z setup on my 2jz Mx73 cressida and used to pigeon like a mofo. Then screamer came on and woke people up. But those times have passed, due to a wheel axle snapping, back wheel flew off and was never to be found. Fun times.

I believe it assists with line pressure for the automatic gearbox if anyone can correct me if I am wrong.. one of the wires was exposed to metal, and had been witnessing 3rd gear not engaging, or locking in 3rd..

Check connections on afm, and check condition of spark plugs, coils and oxygen sensor..

Hey guys, just a a quick question whether anyone has a pic of the dropping resistor for an r33 Gtst automatic? I know location is left hand front headlight and have found a resistor there but not sure if it is it or not.. I am hoping it is as it’s the only thing there.. if someone can confirm that would be much appreciated

Hey Mate, Do you still have this for sale?

Hey guys, Bit delayed with finalising this but the coilpacks have been sold