Darrel

@Butters I can't tell you why but the bigger HKS step 2 cams improved low and mid end immensely. Turbos started spooling about 1k RPM less than before and the idle/vacuum was rock solid, it was an absolute thrill to drive, 3rd gear pulls hit 180kmh where previously only managed 160. Conversely, the milder poncoms in there now have a funky idle making it harder to get off the line, drives poorly in lower revs, laggy and makes less power/torque throughout. Feels better after I swapped the EBC but unless I put it on the Dyno again, I can't say how much better.

@Murray_Calavera yeah, I guessed as much, cooler temps, more boost, less knock, more timing, hello power. Unfortunately not quite within reach ATM, could upgrade my whole fuel system to support but still wouldn't have E85 to run it 😂 Anyway, I changed cams again, 260/260 poncam B and everything else the same except an EBC upgrade. Now I must say I was quite disappointed with the result as it was like running stock cams (didn't try to dial them in as they're supposed to be optimum already) but after awhile I suspected my new EBC was underperforming not to mention difficult to use. I recently swapped back my old EBC and it drives much better now, boost comes on sooner, more stable, no spikes etc, feels all quicker and faster than with stock cams. Planning to fiddle with the cam gears and see what happens but maybe skip the Dyno as I intend to revert to the HKS cams cos they really made the car come alive; low and mid end was unbelievable and it just wanted to rev to the moon, finally knew what people were raving about, RB26 really loves revs. Anyway, Dyno 03 is quite disappointing, in Dyno 02 although peak power was less and trailed off at the top, the low and mid end improvement more than made up for it.

@Murray_Calavera nah, not available yet, they're gearing up for it but won't be available for a few years. So you reckon fuel is the main issue? When this bottom did over 600rwhp it was running big single, twin Z32 MAFs and believe it or not, e manage blue, an old school piggyback 😅 not really a fair comparison but I guess it shows how a big single differs to smallish twins.

Hi @Butters , thanks for your reply. Pump 97 BTW but yeah, I get that old tech is what it is and can't compare to modern stuff but I still believe 500 is achievable, even with these smallish twins. Their effective limit is around what, 24 psi? Intend to go single one day but then again, I'm not chasing big power and might not be worth the investment. Just wondering what if any factors are limiting my setup after a few changes. Let's call this Dyno 02. This is after R35 MAFs, 720cc injectors, DW300 FP, HKS step 2 264/264 cams.

That last number you quoted is right about where I'm stuck, pretty spot on. Now let me share some of my Dyno results. Stock cams, stock fuel pump, stock MAFs, stock injectors, same exhaust and everything else oh yeah I forgot to add tomei FPR, intake cam advanced 2 notches, exhaust retarded 1 notch. Let's call this Dyno 01.

@Murray_Calavera I forget but it's well within the duty cycle limits, my tuner is probably the only guy I trust locally to tune, definitely not the best but with his knowledge and experience, definitely the best here IMHO. He said it's the most he could get out of it on the last session (cam change) and increasing the boost wouldn't give much more gains. Yeah, definitely plan on upgrading to Link G4X or similar but I'd like to max out my setup first which I believe many have done so around 500hp.

@GTSBoythanks for replying. That's realistic and I always believed in the injector-hp rule of thumb. I am however making way less than that 😕 My guestimate/goal for the setup is a reliable 500rwhp, R33 gtr, seems realistic enough doesn't it?

Hi gents, sincerely asking you guys the theoretical or actual power figures expected from the setup below: HKS Y pipes & 80mm cat back, Sard (denso) 720cc injectors, DW300 pump, R35 MAFs, Twin HKS 2530's (stock headers), Trust intercooler, stock BOV, stock intake plenum & TB's, N1 oil pump, MLS head gasket, forged pistons, poncam B's, Power FC, pump RON97, nismo coppermix twin plate, 18's on 265 rubber. So I've pretty much listed all that matters with regards to making and putting the power down. Asking as I may or may not be getting the full potential of my setup (bottom end was running 600rwhp on a different car). I have done numerous Dyno sessions with slightly different setups but more or less the same outcome which leads me to conclude (reluctantly) the setup is maxed out. Will share graphs but would like you to share your input first for better effect. Thanks in advance, guys!

@GTSBoy I believe I haven't been introduced to Mike 🤭🤭🤭 Jokes aside, you could be right about that, I'll check resistance of said TPS signal when I can get a mate's help. Cheers for that, mate!

Hi Duncan, yeah you're right, I wouldn't be surprised if I find a few signals out of spec, I'll get to it when time permits. Cheers for that!

Hi guys! Just wanna update everyone, I've found the issue. Climate control system was faulty but totally unrelated to the Attesa fault. The PCB was corroded from the leaking capacitors and caused the erratic function, tried to fix it but no avail so I got a pre-loved unit and that fixed it but Attesa fault still came on. Now the main issue. I noticed that throttle input would prevent the Attesa fault from coming on for example when you hold the gas constant at around 1500 rpm it wouldn't come on. Made me think if it had anything to do with TPS so I checked the TPS voltage at the throttle body. A long while ago when I checked it was about 0.4 almost 0.5 v, I thought it might have gone out of spec but it was exactly where I left it. So I checked the TPS signal at the Attesa CU and I was getting about 0.02, practically nothing. I proceeded to adjust the TPS till I got about 0.8v and checked the signal at the Attesa CU, I got 0.4v. I went for a drive and viola, no fault since then. I consulted Google and apparently it is quite common for the TPS signal to drop out in power FC. I'm not sure why causes this but I suppose the easy fix to this is to install a unity amplifier to repeat the TPS signal to the Attesa CU. Anyway, I hope this helps our mates here facing the same Attesa fault gremlin, I don't know for sure but if it can happen to PFC I think it could happen to stock ECU's too. Hope this helps and cheers for all your input, thank you very much, guys!

@GTSBoy will likely swap those 28 year old caps just to be safe. Not sure what the black stuff on the chip is, could be burnt as you said and likely damaged so will replace it too. Will get this fixed and get the AC harness checked, maybe something went wrong when they removed harness extension. Will update then, cheers!

Hi guys, A bit of an update, gremlin is still at large, checked voltage when the AC triggers the 4WD light, stable at 13.x, no voltage drop or surge. However, I took off the control panel and found some likely culprits causing the AC problems; an IC & a few caps, although I still don't know how it links to the Attesa. I've sent the control panel to a capable electrician, he said it looks promising. Any opinions, guys? Thanks in advance and have a pleasant weekend. Regards, Darrel.

I was thinking that too, which got me thinking if they shared a common earth or supply (of course that doesn't make sense 😅 )

I will try that, might you have a pin out for the Attesa CU?

Thought it might help given the aging/deteriorating cables & connections. Not necessary then? @DuncanI've set my turbo timer to display real time voltage, will monitor and update.

Hi @Duncan, did think of it too and was contemplating a daisy-chain ground cable from the trunk to the engine bay but I didn't notice any lights dimming or engine stuttering etc. I think my turbo timer might have a voltmeter feature though, I'll check and if not I'll install one, thanks for your input!

Hi @GTSBoy, cheers for that, I'm leaning towards an electrical fault in the climate control then cos when I got the car the control panel had been relocated into the glove compartment by the previous owner in Japan, I had it moved back and it's been problem-free for 3 years now, will take a look at it and check the door gears too and update. Cheers mate!

Hi everyone, might be in the wrong section but it is climate control related, I really need help here, searched and searched but turned up nothing, seems this is a new problem. Car in question is a 95 V-spec BCNR33. The climate control recently developed a strange problem; when it is turned on, it will sometimes only blow air to the footwell regardless of changing through the modes/temp/AC on or off. But just let it run and it will eventually blow air to the correct channel selected and switching between modes then becomes normal. Here's the weird thing, as soon as it directs air correctly, it triggers the 4WD/A-LSD lights (same thing if AC on/off). I don't think it's the plastic gears cos there's no abnormal noise, crunching or anything, just the inability to change air direction when required, I suspect an electrical issue, is the climate control system connected to the Attesa somehow? Would sticky air control gears coming free cause a sudden/heavy electrical load to affect the Attesa? Please help, guys, this problem has me stumped! Cheers in advance, guys! Darrel.

Cheers brother, you're a legend, Jeff!

Hi, I could really use some help calibrating my 33 v spec g sensor cos I can't view the photos in the original post so I don't know where to adjust and to measure the output voltages. Attached are photos of my G sensor already removed and exposed. Really hope someone can help, would really appreciate it. Thank you for your time and assistance.

Will keep an eye on it, cheers!

That could very well be it ?

Makes sense, what do you reckon killed the plug? Overheating? Contamination? Fouling? Plugs looked normal across the board, can't figure it out ?

Yes, thought so too, 2 injectors at once is a real coincidence, maybe dirt got past the filter somehow. I was also thinking the stock ECU had been chipped and tuned badly but it appears to be stock. I'll have to monitor this to make sure it doesn't happen again. Oh yeah, after the rebuild it wouldn't boost past 7 psi, felt like it was being held back by something, this was with no boost controller. After driving around like that for 500 k's I installed a manual boost controller to see if I could bring the boost past 5 psi. It did, when pulling in 1st gear it would reach 19 psi, then in 2nd it would cut out at around 11, in 3rd it would barely go past 7 psi again before cutting out. Then it started misfiring intermittently and eventually I permanently had a boxer engine instead of a straight 6. I figured spark blow out but couldn't be plugs cos new BKR7-E11 plugs were put in during the rebuild so must be coilpacks or ignitor or the crumbling coilpack connectors. So put in splitfires, new coilpack connectors and new style ignitor, gapped plugs to 0.8mm, still boxer engine! Checked injector resistance, coilpack signals and everything, eventually found that cylinder 3 wasn't firing. Swapped coilpacks around, still no.3, swapped plugs around, bingo, dead plug...good as new now, doh ??? But something must have caused the new plug to fail, I'm thinking the higher boost damaged the aging coilpack and consequently killed the plug, what do you guys think?