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vxsr33
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Everything posted by vxsr33
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Coilpacks are probably around 15 months old and are splitfires. I dont think they are faulty though. Im ruling out the bov as i drove with the new bov installed but not the cat, and did a few hard accelerations but no misfire. It only started after the new cat.
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Im running NGK coppers pre-gapped to 0.8mm. Plugs are only around 5000km or less old
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Had the stock bov but it was blocked off. I bought the turbosmart as i thought the stock bov wasnt working properly, was sick of the flutter and was hoping for better response . Turns out the stock bov was probably fine the previous owner had stuffed a bottle cap in one of the hoses. I was thinking the extra flow of the new cat could cause the motor to run leaner. Which could cause misfiring? The old cat looked pretty restrictive. Looked like it was 400cell
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I just swapped my cat (unknown highflow cat) to a venom 100cell highflow, 3 inch inlet and outlet,5 inch body. I also changed my bov to a turbosmart plumb back. Prior to this the car would never misfire under load. But now its misfiring at around 5k rpm. The coilpacks and spark plugs are in good condition, i recently cleaned all the coilpacks thoroughly and put dielectric grease around all the connections. What could be causing the misfire? Could the new cat have affected the tune?
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Nahh i didnt prime or clear coat. I used the vht gloss black caliper paint. For prep i just sanded, used brake clean and followed with wax and grease remover. The vht caliper paint label didn't say anything about primer so i assumed you dont need it. Here's a better pic, a bit dirty though.
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Try and spray in the shade in an area with minimal wind. Also before you start spraying let the can sit in some hot water for a couple mins then shake the can for a minute before spraying. Do a couple of light coats, then do heavier coats. I used a whole 2 cans for 4 calipers and had a small amount left over for 4 brake rotors. Ended up doing like 8 coats all up for the calipers.
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Will switching my standard looking highflow cat (unsure of brand, previous owner just said it was highflow) to a venom 100cell require a retune or will it be safe to drive?
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In regards to cats, would it be best to go for a venom 100 cpi cat or would a magnaflow 100 cpi cat flow the same?
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Bit of a late post but to fix this issue i ended up checking the fuel pump to make sure no hoses were kinked. All was good,so i then did the fuel pump relay mod and changed my fuel reg to a turbosmart fpr 800. Im not 100% sure what was causing the issue but it seems like chequered tuning were correct and swapping from the tomei (most likely fake) reg to the turbosmart fpr 800 fixed the issue. I did notice a smoother idle after swapping to the fpr 800
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Yeah thats the thing that gets me, seems there is always a few cases of people getting great power with return flow coolers. I assume that you can still make good power with a return flow, however unroadworthy piping just flows better and helps make power more easily. That setup looks very stealth. I like it
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Im pretty sure the return flow piping is the main restriction, especially with that 180degree bend. Swapping the blitz core for the pwr core but retaining the piping probably wouldnt do much.
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vic R33 gtst stock turbo, rb25 neo bottom end
vxsr33 replied to vxsr33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hoppers crossing, melbourne. -
Just have to be careful with it. That being said i can just see a few dremel marks underneath the paint. Just do the angles spots by hand. As others have said no need to go to bare metal and its better to just do by hand. 30 mins of vigorous sanding is all it takes.
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I just used a thick cutting disk but was very careful. Then just sanded with 180 grit. I have a bit more sanding to go but this took me about 10 mins.
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Bringing a GTT back to glory
vxsr33 replied to stump_69's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Nice work! I like the east bear rear bumper, i think it looks better without the pods though. -
Im prepping my calipers for painting aswell. I just dremelled the rough areas smooth as well as all the writing but the nissan. Now in the process of sanding them all down thoroughly with 180 grit. Just take your time and sand them thoroughly until you have a smooth even surface. It will take a while but its the best way.
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Looking for a power fc with or without hand controller at a reasonable price. Thanks
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Ah ok. I was thinking of getting the suggested 100cell cat, getting an EBC and getting the car retuned by chequered instead (this will be a while away). Do you think this will solve the issue? As i said im happy with the power just want it to come on full boost earlier.
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Will tensioning the actuator further mess up the tune at all? And yeah the flange is is held on with all 4 nuts and they are tight
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The 18psi actuator was opening at 13psi instead. Why would this happen? Had to use a bleed valve to bring the boost up. Also had my car checked for boost leaks recently and it didnt have any (ill do another boost leak test though). Dont want to go to the 21u, i feel like that would be masking the problem.