vxsr33

While the responsibility is on the buyer to check the correct size and offsets before buying the wheels, some people just don't know much wheel offsets and measurements. Koya should have been more helpful and went through more questions with the buyer to ensure they got wheel specs they were happy with. They probably just sent the most common size for the r33 as standard.

Fitment of caliper and pads on the rotors doesn't look right.

Agree with niZmO_Man. Venom 100 cell cat, excellent quality, fitment and flow. Mine also has no trouble shooting flames still.

Second Pm sent regarding dba 4000 rotors lol

Pm'd

Would you be willing to ship the muffler to Melbourne? And also take some pics? Cheers

Still looking

Keeping my eye out for a new rear muffler for my r33 gtst, something like a Blitz nur spec or HKS would be ideal but willing consider anything of interest. Must be 3 inch. Would consider whole buying whole cat back. 0413 103 732 Thanks for looking Sam

Pm sent

Damn if only you were in Melbourne I would have bought the seat.

As far as I know the clutch fan should always be spinning, it's still partially engaged when cold so will still spin just not at full speed.

I personally think you could get around 11-12k, maybe a bit more if you wait for the right buyer. Someone who is just looking for a stock immaculate example that has been well taken care of. If i were you and i wanted to sell I would probs put up for 14k on carsales with heaps of high quality photos and a detailed description. There aren't many r33s on carsales, they are overpriced and they don't look to be in great condition so yours would stand out in comparison. Thanks, I take care of my car the best i can but it's far from immaculate condition. I think turbo cars in general feel a lot more sluggish and less responsive in the heat than NA. Aircon on causes a noticeable performance loss, especially on skylines. A front mount intercooler could help keep the air temp cooler in hotter weather.

Carsales prices are overinflated. Is your car modified at all or stock?

Sold.

Message sent

When did the problem start? Or has it been like that since the swap? I would start cheap and easy. Such as check for boost leaks, clean coilpacks, new sparkplugs gapped to 0.8, change fuel filter. The stock ecu should be fine at 8 psi, it shouldn't have any R&R issues. If you have a boost controller you could just quickly bypass it and run stock wastegate pressure to see if it fixes the problem at all.

Part number is 14815.

No problem Width of tips together = 6 inches Tip length = 7 inches Body length = 14 inches Body width = 8 inches Body height = 5 inches

How much boost are you running? Stock turbo?

GTSboy what do you mean by get something to log the ecu? I don't have access to any tools like that. CEF33Y fuel level has been around half way or a bit over. Ive never had any fuel surging issues. Pump is a walbro 255 wired up to a relay.

It's not lack of throttle thats causing the bogging and i don't think silicon lube will help in this case. AFM is a z32 and car is pushing just under 260rwkw so i assume the AFM should be no problem. I want to do a beginners drift day hence why i want to fix the issue. The odd thing is it happens only after a few seconds of losing traction so it's not as if the motor is being abused and overheated. Could it be something to do with the tune? Should i contact chequeredtuning and tell them the problem or no point?

I don't mean the lock bar itself, i mean the hicas tie rods can develop some play in them. Elim kit seems to be the better option imo, but lock bar is easy to install and easily reversible. Both of my hicas tie rods had play in them so it was more cost effective to install a delete kit.

S2 spoiler white. Paint is in pretty good condition, clear coat is good, has a few scuffs that would probably come off with a buff. Id say 7 /10 condition, no cracks or damage. $60 R33 bootlid. I attempted to smooth over the lock and failed, you can see the outline of where it has been filled. Will need to be sanded lightly and smoothed over with a bit of body filler. Will need a respray, i got bored and tested out my skills with a $2 spray can. Boot lid is 100% straight no dents. $30 R33 gtst stock dump pipe. I doubt anyone will grab this but FREE if you want it. 3 inch mid exhaust section with straight through mid muffler. Got this off a fellow SAU member. In less than average condition, has dents but nothing that would adversely affect flow. I'm pretty sure the gtr this came off was running well over 350kw. Has a small crack on muffler support that could be welded up and muffler has scrapes. Was maybe going to use this but have no need for it. FREE Located Melbourne western suburbs. Pm or contact 0413 103 732 Sam

Can't really tell from the pics. You're gonna have to jack up the rear (use jackstands) and check the rear wheels and suspension for play. Google "diy hicas delete" and the first link should be a good how-to from trak-life.com (credit to DosePipe). It's a fairly easy job.

Hi SAUers Firstly i do not condone irresponsible driving on the street. I'm having an issue whenever i do a burnout or donut (done on private property) the car will start to bog and lose power within a few seconds (I'm not limiter bashing or anything), almost as if the ecu is dumping in heaps of fuel. This is the only time this issue happens, other than the motor runs well never misfiring, bogging or hesitating under load. I'm running a power fc and the car has been tuned by Chequered Tuning with no changes after the tune. Any ideas? I had a search but couldn't find anything similiar to the issue im having. Thanks for any help or suggestions.