vxsr33

Just get a manual bleed valve such as a $40 turbotech or a turbosmart and boost it to a safe 10psi, should get around 180rwkw which is still enough to have fun with. I wouldn't get a tune with the stock turbo, to get 200rwkw you will have to run higher boost which is playing with fire with the ceramic turbine.

I was having a misfire last year so i took apart my splitfires, cleaned them thoroughly with soapy water and a toothbrush, sprayed them with elec contact cleaner, and put dielectric grease where the plugs go in. Haven't had a misfire since, might be worth a try

Tachometer isn't working (tried re-soldering all connections but no luck) so i need a tachometer from another dash cluster. Looking to buy the whole cluster for a reasonable price. Or just the tachometer. Pm me or contact on 0413 103 732 Located hoppers crossing, Melbourne Cheers Sam

I found that water line impossible to remove. I had to cut the hardline and push on a coolant hose with braided line. I pushed the hose far down the hardline and ziptied the crap out of it. It's a dodgy way but it's been like that for around 6 months with no leaks.

Welcome! I think your car wants to be converted to manual [emoji6]

With the grey wire (ground) cut it in the middle the splice in a wire going to a ground source in the boot. On my s2 r33 the ground was grey and active light blue

Put aside a full weekend for the job. You will have to remove all piping around the turbo then disconnect the downpipe and coolant and oil lines going to the turbo (have bucket ready when removing coolant hoses). You should be able to undo the manifold from the block with the turbo still attached but it might be easier to remove the turbo first. Once you get the exhaust manifold off you will have to drill the studs, use an easy out to remove them, then put the new ones in (google this step). Put everything back together. Pour a bit of oil into the turbo oil feed before you connect the line so it doesn't run dry on startup. Before you start the car I would also disconnect the cas and crank the car over about 20 times to get oil circulating through the turbo. Things you will need: -new manifold studs -new manifold gasket - new t3 turbo gasket (if you remove turbo from manifold, but it can't hurt to put a new one anyway) -new dump pipe gasket - new copper washers for turbo lines (i picked up a big box of assorted ones from united tools for $20)

DHF tyres in Hallam are great, best alignment/ tyre shop I've been to. I got my R33 aligned there and they did an excellent job. Very friendly bunch of guys who want customers to leave 100% satisfied.

+1 on getting hypergear turbo and going E85. Easiest and cheapest way to get close to 500hp

Put it on the dyno and see how much power it's making. Stock rb25det is pretty slow so i would think stock rb20 would be even worse.

You might as well buy a 3 inch xforce/jjr front and downpipe replacement (less than $200)which will bolt directly to the cat and catback. I'd recommend a venom 100cell 5 inch body 3 inch inlet and outlet ($300). These are excellent quality and aren't restrictive

215rwkw with stock turbo? How much boost are you running?

Is it even safe to make high power with the na neo? You're still going to have the weaker na gearbox aswell.

I would polish the headlights. There's a kit you can get on ebay called glassylite. Made my headlights crystal clear and no signs of fading or yellowing over a year later

Stock limiter is 8000rpm. How come you didn't find out all the details of the motor before buying?

Return flow looks much neater. I wonder how the GCG highflow compares to the hypergear highflow.

Finally got my r33 gtst tuned at chequered. Car made 258rwkw at 17-18 psi peaking to around 20psi in the midrange. Hks gtrs turbo, blitz return flow cooler, good 3 inch exhaust, 1000cc xpurts and other supporting mods. Car now makes full boost at 3500rpm in comparison to full boost at 5000rpm it made with the OP6 hypergear highflow at chasers.

This car looks amazing, the stock bodykit with the front lip and sideskirt extensions look perfect on a gtt. Not a fan of the nismo front bar or gtr bar on gtt. What specs are those rpf1's? Looks like your running a fair bit of camber.

Thanks fellas, i know the VLSD is shit, will just have to save up for a nismo 1.5 or something From what i have seen it is only leaving one line so it's no good. Bill if you reckon that the kicking out is unrelated then hopefully the alignment will fix it.

Hi guys, I'm having an issue on heavy acceleration, notably in second gear. The car loses traction and the rear kicks out, causing the car to snake quite dangerously. I'm assuming the problem is the LSD is worn because it feels as though only one wheel is losing traction therefore causing the car to swerve. Checked suspension for play and everything seems fine, and booking an alignment in this weekend. Car has 258rwkw and im running federal rsr in 235. Any suggestions?

From measuring my r33 gtst manual stock swaybars the fronts are 22mm and the rears are 18mm

Recieved the wrong bushes for my r33. Brand new superpro Rear lower control arm bushes for r32, s13 and 300zx. Only opened packet to check bushes. $50, cheapest i have seen these go for is $95 Can post at buyers expense. Located melbourne 0413 103 732 Sam

I've seen the AR1's advertised on gumtree in 255 40 17, $240 each from memory. Don't think the shop was in Adelaide though.

You won't need adjustable control arms or camber kits unless you are slamming your car. If you lower it to the height GTSBoy stated, the drivetrain and suspension geometry will be optimal. So all you will need is an alignment

Canon muffler sold