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I found a tutorial that looked pretty good, but the hosting photos where disabled. So you had to open each photo on another site. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Ahh ok, I'm not sure what other cars have that engine so I'm not sure how much help I can give you.

It should be the same as the one on the R34. Because that both have the rb25det neo. So they should have the same AFM

You can get them at Autobarn. Their like $20 or something. Bolts straight to the AFM

Give either race pace or vspec performance a call. They would be my first points of call.

Good tyres would make the biggest difference if you don't have some already

I don't think that's the right link. That looks to be the one from January.

Not legal, you would need to have a airbag on the wheel because it came factory with airbags.

Hammer usually fixes thing like that.

You can run a auto diagnostic on it via the consult port. You just need a paper clip. There's a write up somewhere on here that will tell you how to do it. Other option is to get a consult device to read the codes.

I just marked where it was, put the new one on. Checked that the CAS was the issue then set the timing with a light.

Check the CAS. I was having the same issue. If you pull it off (after marking where it was) it should spin easily and freely. Swap it out for another one if you can.

Yeah, probably not a good idea if it's your only car. If you break something important. You're f**ked.

Yeah assuming nothing else breaks on my car i'll be there. also the link - https://www.facebook.com/events/301326050304918/

As long as the signal is still getting to the tach it should work. Double check your splice didn't brake the connection, if not, disconnect the shift light and see if it works again.

Does not seem to be the O2 sensor on the exhaust, I disconnected it completely and it did the exact same thing.

Warm idle issue - Help Hey all, Need a bit of help. Been having this issue for a while, It starts having idle issues when the car is warm, usually after about 15-20 minutes, I have got videos of what it sounds like when cold idle and when the issue starts to happen. As well as NDSI logs of as the car heats up and the when the issue happens. It was at protek automotive for about a month and they didnt find anything. I replaced the coil packs with new ones it kept happening, then i replaced the spark plugs with new BCPR6E-1, then also resoldered the AFM solder joints. Any insight would be more than welcome. What the exhaust sounds like cold. Issue as it starts to happen and get warm. Issue as it gets worse. What it sounds like from the drive side fender. I really hope someone can find what the issue is, I'm getting pretty sick of this not working. Thank you all so very much. NDSI20170420_162105.log

R34 Auto Off headlights Hello, So today i modded my headlights to they turn off automatically when the key is removed from the car. I am doing this on my 1998 R34 25gt. It should be the same for the gtt at least, and somewhat similar for other models. This will make sure you cant leave your headlights on when you park only to return to a flat battery. (I've done this 3 times now) Tools: Soldering iron, Wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, Crimper (i just used my pliers) Supplies: Solder, 3 horn relays. (i used jaycar part SY4068) at least 12 connectors to put on the relay tab (you need 12, but the packs from jaycar come in 8 packs.) couple of meters of wire Heat shrink First you will have to remove the plastic surround that goes around the steering column. There are 3 screws underneath. undo these and pull down on the handle that adjusts the wheel height, with this done it should just pop off. once this is done you will need to remove the lower dash piece. On mine there is a screw on the left and a couple of bolts on the right next to the bonnet release. you should now be able to pull it off, making sure to disconnect any plugs that are on the panel. there will be a bundle of wire coming from just behind the wheel under the dash then back up under the dash, In mine it was already cut open so this is where i attached my relays. you will need to find the correct wires that control the head lights. In my case it was the RED/WHITE wire, RED/YELLOW wire and the RED/BLUE But you should check these are correct. Best way i found is to look on the back on the indicator stalk there are 2 plugs, one has about 12 connectors on it, the other has 4. The connector with 4 plugs should have the wires said above and a green/white one. (Again your mileage may vary) Where ever you decide to splice into these wires you might want to cut the wire and extend it about 10cm on each side of the cut so you have a bit more room to work with. I soldered my little extension on the cut wire and heat shrunk it up. With this done i crimped the connectors onto the end of my wire and connected these to pins 87 and 30 of each relay. Now to get some power to toggle the relays. you will need some that is only powered with the key in the ignition. I got mine from the 12v socket next to the shifter. Connect a length of wire to the pos and neg of this and run it to under that dash (There might be a better spot to get this from, but i couldn't think of anywhere) then you will have to split this between the 3 relays. you can do this how ever you want. it should be pretty straight forward. crimp your connectors onto these wires and plug them on the remaining relay plugs. When moving the key to ACC you should be able to head the relays clicking. if not check your getting 12V on the connectors and that they are plugged in to the correct pins. it should be pins 85 and 86. Check that the lights all turn on with the key in the ignition. remove the key and the lights should go off with that.

Do you still have the coil overs?

Here you go. This should show you what you need to do http://www.instructables.com/id/HOW-TO%3a-Wire-a-DPDT-rocker-switch-for-reversing-po/?ALLSTEPS

I would probably put the pod in a box as a kind of cold air intake, but i don't think you will see much difference

I would test fit them on a mates car. But i don't know anyone with a GTT unfortunately. if the caliper only sits out an extra 16mm it should be fine (there looks to be about 20mm with the GT brakes) Thanks!

Thanks for doing this write up. I always find it good to read a few people experiences before doing something like this. (even though it will still be in a couple of years) Thanks!

What Plenum have you got on there? Looks really nice.

R34 GT Indicator not Cancelling Hey All, I just took the steering wheel off my r34 to make it straight. (It was about 3 degrees to the left) and when i went for a drive to make sure it was working correctly. I noticed the indicators have stopped cancelling automatically. There are 3 little 'pins' around the metal column. these appear to be moving with the wheel as it turns. I Cant see what else would be causing this. Has anyone had this issue?