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ed

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Everything posted by ed

  1. Not meant to clean them, they are meant to be replaced every 25,000kms or 2 years (from memory). Some people do clean them like R31 power has said and others have have put air gun inside and blow out.
  2. Yep I was there to witness this. Unigroup adjusted the static timing though. Which was odd.
  3. Back to the orig question. I bought the justjap cooler for $175. Cut and taped up some mandrel bends, got them welded all up it was under $400. $11 per mandrel mild bend from livo exhaust.
  4. I am thinking about getting one made up. Just wondering if anyone else was interested. It is a bar that re-inforces the chasis by bolting from the B pillar to B pillar. Probably get it made from mild steel and powdercoat them. Do-Luck and Carbing make them http://www.do-luck.com/bar_r_cross.html Both are over $500 though. If I can get numbers then it would be a fair whack lower.
  5. I get around 370km with 40L of fuel. Mine's a manual and I drive it everyday to work. If you can drive manual, with the stock GTT clutch there's nothing wrong with it in traffic.
  6. Yes they are
  7. I don't know why people say manual is a bitch driving to work everyday. I mean, you get used to it pretty quickly You'll need to beef up the auto boxes if you're planning on pushing big power. Naturally an auto box will zap some power.
  8. Check the sensors. Do the air-con diagnostic and it will tell you if something is wrong. Most likely the outside air temp sensor is fux0red.
  9. fuel pump then oil cooler.
  10. I'm after - passenger side kick panel - center air vent (where the hazard light button is) - Stock floor mats. Do you have any?
  11. I got FMIC before ECU and found the car ran bit more boost. THis is on a 34 GTT though, same car as the one in question SAFC won't do timing but yes it will correct your AFR's If you car is auto then you will find it hard to get your hands on a stock ECU. Manual there are a few on the forsale section.
  12. damn 10....AFR's...do you get bad km's per tank full?
  13. haha...makes me laugh, good thread keep it up.
  14. just a display
  15. www.BELgarage.com.au
  16. So what is the problem again? Can't you just whack on a 3" dump? If it's made for a 34 then it should match up fine.
  17. I just piped behind it. No problems with hitting it. 235 wide tyres up front. EDIT: 2.5" pipes.
  18. www.shockreco.com.au not in sydney thought but looks like that's your only choice?
  19. If you can't drive it and it's pissig out black smoke like a chimney then you should check ALL your intercooler piping. This was my problem.
  20. All I did was remove the red and blue part. loosen then right green part from the throttle body and turn the pipe up. then after a few minutes of manipulating the cover it will come off. The first time you do it, might take you 30 mins haha but that is how i get my cover off. i just leave it off now.
  21. End of the day, it depends on how much power you are chasing. Decide on a power figure and pick your cooler. Rules vary state to state. Best to post that Q in the state sections Brendan, how much power you pushing now?
  22. You'll need minor adjustments on a 32 and it will be ALOT larger than the stock 32 unit. Straight drop in for 33/stagea owners and a bit bigger. Good bang for buck IMO, esp since there's no f*&king around. Try and find one with the plastic ducting for it.
  23. Time to look for a new tuner. Talk to ya on MSN tomorrow about it
  24. Just becareful with mods + mine's ECU.
  25. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/
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