msammut

No thank you. I got pads with the Calipers.

Thanks to all of you for your assistance. I have placed the two R32 DBA rotors for sale on gumtree and have bought the 350Z rotors. Michael.

Thanks. Are the 350Z Rotors the same diameter ? 324mm.

Thanks to all. I will get the Intima SR's. Michael.

Hi people. Finally got my Gtr rebuilt and on the road. I now have 310awkw but I need better brakes. I do not want to upgrade to 6pots yet as I mainly do daily drives but I want to go on the track once in a while. i was wondering what are the best pads to put on this car for now?

Also watch out for polarity. Led’s Work one way only. Usually black is negative.

I will assume you have checked the compression of Cylinders 1 & 2. As the injectors are firing I suggest you swap coil pack 1 with coil pack three. If the you now remove injector 1 and there is a change then the coil pack is faulty under load as you can see the spark when the CAS is rotated. Michael.

You say the Revs drop to 0. If the car is in gear and moving when this happens it would suggest the ignition is being lost as the Tacho uses the ignition signal. Power could be lost to the PTU. Loose wire or the PTU itself. Michael.

Sound like a battery terminal problem. Clean the battery terminals and the wiring connectors to the terminals and do not over tighten the terminal clamps. if the same thing happens after the clean see if you can get to the main Starter terminal and check that it is tight. Michael.

With the ignition ON and the CAS removed but still wired into the harness you should hear the injectors firing. Have you done this? If the Injectors fire during this test the the CAS is not being driven by the shaft. If the Injectors do not fire and the ECU is fine then there is no connection to the ECU or the +12V. Michael.

Could be the PTU. Can you try another one? Michael

Ok. Just did it without pulling the clock out. Used the Net. The module comes in different display colours. Good luck. Michaels digital clock repair.docx

Ok. This is the nodule I purchased. 3 IN 1 12V 24V Car Auto Digital Led Electronic Time Clock Thermometer Voltmeter http://r.ebay.com/zf9Ou I will put together a document with the details and post it up her soon as I can. once it is up you can decide if you can do it yourself. Michael

Thanks. I hate to throw away good money when I do not need to.

just thought I would show you all mu $5 R32 gtr clock repair I just completed. I was not prepared to pay $100 Plus for a used 20 year old clock. Or more for a New Old Stock (NOS) one so I researched and found a tiny 12V digital clock module and decided to try and fit it in the original case and make the buttons work. The result is as shown . NOTE: It is not a direct replacement and does not function as the OEM one. It is very bright at nignt. It shows the time continuously. The buttons do not function as OEM. The Reset button is not used. Having said all that what do you expect for $5 and an hours work. The Good. It has an inbuilt temperature sensor and a voltmeter. It can be set to scan though Time-Temperature-Voltage every few seconds. It does what I want for very little cost.

Ok. Is it twin turbo? If it is not then it might be an ignition problem. If it is a twin turbo then the single FMIC is actually two separate sections. The top half is one and the bottom half is the second Intercooler. So you have 4 hoses for two turbo's. On my car the previous owner had both upper hoses connected to the inlet of each turbo and the two bottom hoses to the Outlet of each of the turbos effectively choking the turbos. I just swapped the left side hoses around and that was it. Problem fixed. Michael.

I just thought of something. Check that the piping on the FMIC is around the right way. I once bought a Twin Turbo with an aftermarket FMIC and had the same issues. I swapped the hoses over and it was perfect. Just a thought. Michael.

I do not know the RB25 but I would expect it is similar to other RB series engines. It is not looking like a fuel problem. I would be checking the Alternator output voltage first. Turn on all the eletricals in the car like A/C, Headlights, fan, wipers. The voltage should not go much below 13-14Volts. If the alternator checks OK the I would suspect the coil driver module. It is not easy to check them under load as it seems that the problem appears under load. That all I can think of. I wish you well. Michael

Just a note about the leds being not cool. It is a matter of alternator loading or current draw. Each blinker bulb uses 21watts. That is 42 watts each side. Each led replacement uses 7 watts. That's 14 watts each side. That is a 66% reduction in current for the alternator. With the hazard lights on that is even less current from the alternators. with today's cars using more current due to increased onboard electronics the current saving that led lights give is a must otherwise the alternator will be too large. that is why I put all my lighting with leds. It takes the stress off the alternator. I don't care too much about looks. Michael.

Just did mine today. I just made up 3 jumper wires. One end male insulated and the other female insulated spades. Plugged them in swapping the two leads as discussed and no problems. michael.

I suggest a simple test. While idling move the ignition wires to see if a wire is intermittently not connecting. I suggest you start with the coil wires.Then the wires to the PTU and the plug itself. If the idling changes with the movement of the wires or the connector then that is where the fault lies. M Sammut

David The slide on type Timing light pickup clip should have makings to tell you which way the clip faces. Placing it the wrogn way around on No1 plug lead will give an incorrect timing reading. Check this first. Michael

I suggest you take a very close look at the ECU harness connector. (Not the pins on the ECU). If all the pins look ok from the front of the connector then look at the rear end of the connector where the wires come into the connector. You are looking for wires that may have been pushed back too far out of the connector. They would be sticking back further than others. If you see nothing unusual in the connector then look at the ECU pins on the ECU itself. If all ok again then do basic checks for Injectors firing, Fuel pump going. Spark at the spark plug. Also check that fuel hoses are around the right way by disconnecting the pipe from the filter outlet and catching the fuel in a can while someone cranks the engine for a few seconds. Michael.

If the Injectors and spark plugs were replaced then it could only be wiring. May I suggest you get a helper to keep the engine from stalling and see if moving the injector wires and/or the wires to the coil packs and the wires coming out of the PTU. If this cause no difference when a wire is moved then someone needs to check voltages and resistances to see where the problem lies. Michael.

Thank you all again for your experieced comments and insights. I will get the N1 stuff. And i will will be getting the shims checked. Michael