Super Roo

So, I'm looking to fix up under the front of my R33 GT-R (1995, not a v-spec or N1). Specifically after seeing the one they had in the Nissan Heritage Collection when I was there on holiday recently (awesome place by the way, if you're in Tokyo you have to go check it out) I want to put the front brake cooling ducts, engine undertray, and the front halves of the front wheel arch liners back in as mine came with none of these things when I bought it. I know there are some clearance issues on the wheel arch liners with 18s and the stock BOV, but I've got some solutions for that so I'm not too worried. What I was hoping for some help with is working out which part to get for the front of the right front wheel arch liner and the engine undertray, as there are two part numbers for each of these. For the engine tray the numbers are 75890-05U20 and 75890-24U20. The first is the basic part, the second is listed as being for series one v-spec cars and the N1 in all years. I have actually found pictures of the two parts and the only discernible difference is an extra bulge on what I believe is the driver's side of the part. So my question is does anyone know what that bulge is for? Is it going to be useful to have that extra space down the track (for mods etc.) or is it some weird N1 specific thing that I'll never have a use for? I've attached the pictures. For the wheel arch liners I haven't found any pics. The base part number is 63844-24U00, and the alternate part is 63844-24U10. It sounds like the second part was used for the v-spec and N1 in series one, and the N1 in series two. By series three all variants used the first part. Does anyone know what the difference is? Thanks heaps to anyone taking the time to read and help, really appreciate all the knowledgeable helpful folks here.

The resin is what actually sets the material in place. Without the resin you'd just have a carbon fibre fabric, which as you can imagine wouldn't hold its shape very well! The resin can either be added separately when the part is made, or it can be impregnated into the carbon fibre fabric. It's generally an epoxy resin of some kind.

Nice! The 370Z wheels (I believe?) suit it really well.

Good to meet you mate, and I'm sure you won't regret signing up - there's a lot a of great people on here with heaps of knowledge. Car sounds like a beast, looking forward to seeing it!

Someone else might be able to chime in with something more useful, but you can kind of do this by using this website: http://jp-carparts.com/index.php It has all the exploded diagrams that help you find the part numbers. You can then google the part numbers and see what cars they used that part on. Bit clunky and can be somewhat confusing to find the diagram or part you want, but it helps. Of course this only tells you if the part is identical - you might for example have a different cat on each model but they could still have the same bolt pattern and length and be somewhat interchangeable. For that sort of thing forums like this are great - have a search and see if anyone has already found an answer, and if not ask and some incredibly knowledgeable person will usually come along to help. It's definitely worth looking around for parts though. As an example I replaced the coil packs on my RB26, and found them half the price in the UAE. Apparently that part is common to several Nissan engines from the period and they stocked them there for a Patrol or something that used them. You do also want to be careful, as some parts will bolt on but won't work as well as the correct part, or they look the same but thread sizes are different etc. If you're talking aftermarket parts, most of the major sellers are pretty good about either having one listing if the part fits multiple cars, or you can find the part number and search to see what else it fits as above. Hope that helps!

Hi mate, welcome to the forum :)! I've found it to be a great resource full of helpful people, I'm sure you'll love it here.

Okay, I’ve had a chance to have a quick look at mine, got the relay off but couldn’t get the plug out in the time I had. But from what I can tell there are four wires. If you’re looking at it standing at the front of the car, the blue and pink wire seems like it’s at the top, the yellow and green wire seems like it’s at the left, and the right and bottom are identical grey wires. Hope that helps, will try and get the plug out tomorrow if I have more time.

Alrighty, I'll help out if I can :). It's in the main fuse box in the engine bay yeah?

I'm not the best when it comes to auto electrics, but I do have an R33 GT-R and the air con works, so if all you need is a photo of something off a working car to reference I can do that for you mate.

If you're still having issues this is what I found worked on mine when I did it recently: Bolt on top - easy enough Front bolt underneath - you can with sufficient determination post a medium quarter inch drive extension through the mess of pipes and stuff to reach it. Socket can get stuck in there though Back bolt underneath - unextended quarter inch will fit, but you can't really see it. I found it easiest with a mate above the car putting it on while I held it from underneath, as you have better access below but better sight of it above.

Hi all, Thought I'd share my solution to holding the boot lid of my R33 GT-R up so it doesn't try and kill me. A little background: when I bought my car the gas struts were pretty dead. They'd hold the boot lid up but didn't really provide any assistance lifting it and a gust of wind or slight slope would send it falling down. The factory struts are built into the hinges, and are no longer available new. While my car was being resprayed I thought I'd get the paint guys to give me the strut/hinge units and see if I could get them regassed. Long story short I couldn't find anyone who could do that, but I did find someone who could replace them with new struts. The new struts were even modular so I could pop them of and change the amount of gas pressure in them as required to get them right. However there was a problem - the paint guys found the struts had fatigued the boot panel where they attach. I actually had to buy a new boot panel. We played around with the new struts, but basically anything with enough strength to hold the boot would require so much force to close that it would just fatigue the panel again. So for a long time I just had a piece of wooden dowel and a cloth to hold the boot up. Then my dad noticed that the bonnet stay from his Subaru Liberty would be about the right size, so we ordered one of those and it turns outs it's perfect! These are the parts you'll need. I believe Subaru sells them as a pack with everything you need. You'll also need to rummage up an appropriate bolt and washer (I used a Mitsubishi bolt from my old car). After we took these photos we also found the bolt didn't quite have enough purchase, so we made up a steel backing plate with little tabs on the end to hold onto so we could feed it into position. You could also use a nutsert. The prop comes with a rubber grommit that's the perfect size for this factory hole. You'll need to bend the prop ever so slightly so that when it's stowed it doesn't pop out at the end. You'll need to grind a little tab off the bracket - Dremel cut off wheel is your friend. The bracket works nicely mounted like this. I added some clear film underneath to stop it marking the paint too much. The prop rests nicely on this factory metal tab behind the right rear light. To get at it you'll need to cut a little of the boot liner carpet stuff away. This is what it looks like in position, stowed, and from the side to show how it holds the boot up: Anyway, hopefully this helps someone out. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know if you'd like more photos.

BCNR33 Boot Gas Struts Hi all, So, like many of you the boot gas struts on my car are shot, and 10kg plus boot lid guillotine is no fun. As the strut is part of the hinge and doesn't look like it comes off, I thought that while the boot was off for painting anyway it would be a good time to fix them. I did originally look at getting new replacements but the guys in Japan told me Nissan had discontinued them. Lots of people on the forums seem to have had them regassed or replaced, so I took them to a place that does that around the corner from my work. The guy said the struts go up to 1100N, but that with the hinge it won't fit on his machine so the only option would be replacement. The highest rated struts he has are 700N. I was wondering the following: 1) as people in other threads seem to have had a more straightforward experience where the guy just fixed/replaced their struts without any problems, does anyone have a recommendation for someone in Canberra who can do it? 2) does anyone know roughly what force the factory items should be pressurised to, and accordingly what force an aftermarket replacement would need to be capable of? Thank you very much in advance for your time and help, and sorry if this has been answered before (I did search).

WTB R33 GT-R Rear Speakers Hi all, many thanks as always for your ongoing help with my work on my car, it's greatly appreciated . Short version: WTB stock or similar rear speakers for R33 GT-R. Detailed version: A previous owner of my car did a super dodgy speaker install in the rear. They put in what I believe are 6x9s, but to avoid contacting the battery they had to put in MDF spacers which looked terrible and made the speakers contact the window. I removed them and the parcel shelf, but the shelf liner was cut to fit, so I've sourced a replacement. Fortunately they didn't cut the actual metal underneath, might be an extra hole or two but nothing structural. This leaves me in need of replacement speakers so I don't have gaping holes. Personally I really don't care about sound in the car (not what I bought it for), but my wife would like to be able to somewhat hear music haha, and it would be nice for longer highway trips, so I'm after speakers not a blanking solution. As far as I can tell there's no aftermarket amp, just the aftermarket head unit. So I'm after a pair of rear speakers that I can just plug into the wires and mount easily to deliver a factory appearance. Stock speakers would seem to fit that bill nicely if anyone has some following an upgrade, but I would also take some 6 inch aftermarket ones that are sufficiently shallow to avoid the battery and either use the stock holes or mount easily enough without massive amounts of hacking. The other thing is I have those speaker straddling child seat anchor points, and would like something that'll fit under those. Thanks for your time in reading this!

Cheers mate, will give that a go. It is pretty heavy, although it's also just a fairly aggressively sprung clutch to be fair.

Sorry it took me a while to get back to this - once again points to Matt. Vasiliy was an absolute pleasure to deal with, and the car passed no problems .

Breather tank/catch can/oil-air separator plumbing questions Hi all, Sorry, yet more questions. So, one of the previous owners of my car fitted a breather tank. Just before I acquired it it was looked over and some of the plumbing changed by Unigroup in Sydney. Attached are photos to show how it's plumbed in. From my research on this forum (very useful as always, thank you all!) and comparing to stock engine bays, it looks like the two breathers at the back of the cam cover are as stock, and are linked on the passenger's side to one of the turbos as stock. On the driver's side it's linked to the breather tank instead of linking to a PCV valve or whatever that thing on the side of the engine is, which is now blanked off. Currently the tank vents to the atmosphere through a little filter. The first aspect of this is I need to make it legal to pass rego. It only needs to be or look legal for 30mins, doesn't need to be an elegant solution. I tried blanking off the hose to the breather tank, but that either causes massive blow by or is pulling oil in large quantities from the top of the engine, as at idle it made piles of smoke. So I'm assuming the solutions are either to find a stock PCV valve and hose to connect onto the driver's side, or to take the filter out of the tank, hook that up to the pipe into the turbo, and blank off the passanger's side. Secondly, I'm curious if this setup is actually done properly. What makes more sense and what a lot of people on threads here seem to have done is blank off the turbo inlet and hook the passanger's side vent into the breather tank after combining with the driver's side pipe. Otherwise surely the system is still going back into the inlet charge, which defeats the purpose? Thank you very much for your help and time as always!

Help finding/fitting child seat restraints in an R33 GT-R for rego Hi all, Sorry for yet more questions, but I have tried searching both the web generally and SAU specifically before posting. In the quite likely event I've just not found the information I'm after my sincere apologies for being a pain. One of the items I need to rectify to pass rego is to display/fit child seat restraints. My understanding is that they should be there, as having them would have been a requirement for compliance when the car was imported. I've got my rear seats and parcel shelf out, attached are some photos of the area. So I guess my question is, with what's there what's the best solution to get a legal setup so it'll pass rego? It'd be nice if it was also usable should I want to do that down the track. Thank you very much as always in advance!

What are these fittings on the clutch cylinder and plenum for (BCNR33)? Hi all, Thank you very much for your ongoing patience with my questions as I get to know my new car. So, over the weekend I got my first proper chance to work on the car, and whilst doing some stuff in the engine bay (trying to make my breather tank pass rego, but that'll have to wait until I have photos) I noticed a couple of unused fittings. One is on the plenum near the number 6 cylinder (firewall end), and is blanked off, the other is on the clutch cylinder and appears to be just open. Car runs fine, no sign of any leaks. Should I be worried? Are these meant to me hooked up and are important? Sorry if the answer to this is super obvious, I have tried searching both these forums and the web generally but maybe I just didn't try the right search terms. Thanks in advance!

Okay, so I finally had a chance to get under the car over the weekend properly. GTofuS-T gets a cookie, they do indeed look like they're independently height adjustable, and besides that the springs spin but don't rattle so even if they're at full height already the lowering would be in the order of a couple of mm to fix it. They'd been slipping up more and more lately for me and a few friends, but I think I'll be going somewhere else for suspension stuff from now on! Not that it matters, but for background the quote was something like $88 bucks a spring, $33 bucks a spacer and the rest was labour for fitting them and a full alignment. But that's money I don't have to spend now! Just need to work out what size range c spanners to get and I can do it myself.

Not too sure mate, as I don't live in Sydney I had the seller take it there for me. Will most likely go back for major stuff/an annual service though.

Rectifying non-captive springs in Zeal coilovers Hello all, So, I've taken my new R33 GT-R through its rego inspection (in the ACT you have to go through the government pits. It's worth just going and seeing what they find as if you return with everything rectified within a month you only pay an additional $16 or so). Mostly all stuff I anticipated that's easy enough to fix, like the exhaust being too loud. The one surprise has been that the springs in the coilovers aren't captive under full droop, such as when the car is jacked up. For background the car is on Zeal coilovers (sub brand of Endless), unsure if they're function x or something else as I haven't had a chance to properly get under the car myself. I've taken it to my suspension guy (Ian at Revell in Fyshwick), who's said if I don't want to lower the car further the fix is helper/tender springs (people don't seem to be able to agree which name goes with which thing - here we mean the super low rate springs that coil bind as soon as the car sits on the suspension and only extend to pin the springs in place under droop) which will cost almost a grand after parts and labour. Before I drop that kind of money I want to be sure it's the way to go, so I've been doing my research. So firstly I'd like to check I've understood the problem properly. As I understand it the issue goes like this. With coilovers unless they have independent height adjustment ride height changes are made by winding the seat of the spring up and down, adjusting the preload and how much it's squished by. Non-captive springs happen when the seat isn't wound up enough, allowing the spring to fully extend under droop and rattle around. Is that correct? What I don't understand is why a kit that I assume was designed for this model of car would have such a problem within its range of adjustment. Is it just operating at a ride height higher than the manufacturer intended? Secondly, I obviously need to work out the best way to fix this. Again as I understand it the possible solutions worth exploring are: Lower the car more. It's not crazy low but clearance at the front is marginal already in a lot of environments including the ramp to my apartment complex parking. The current front splitter is already scraped underneath but I don't want to break anything, and ultimately I'm planning to put a carbon fibre item on and would like to avoid destroying it. Helper/tender springs. A decent chunk of money but will properly fix the problem, retain the current ride height and not mess with the properties of the suspension under driving conditions. Can also potentially be reused on other coilovers I might fit in the future. Replace springs with longer springs. Replace coilovers with different coilovers that don't have this issue at the desired height or with a separate spring and damper combo. Whilst I'm thinking I might eventually replace the coilovers with Ohlins ones down the track, I had planned for that to be in several years after doing a bunch of other work on the car, as it seems the current Zeal coilovers are reasonably well regarded. Is that the case? I'm leaning towards just getting the helper/tender springs, but want to make sure I'm not just throwing good money after a bad setup. I'm planning to keep this car until they put me in a box, so want to do it right. TLDR - Zeal coilover springs aren't captive under droop, should I fix with tender springs or are these coilovers junk and I should replace with a new system instead of spending money fixing them?

Thank you very much for the recommendations all. Had the car taken to Unigroup, who seem to have done a good job - car drives amazingly and is now all mine . Thanks to all here who have helped me with my journey so far!

Hi all, So, I've had my offer on an R33 GT-R accepted (very exciting times!) subject to passing a mechanical inspection. I'd be much obliged if anyone could give me recommendations for a good mechanic to carry out the pre-purchase inspection for me, preferably with extensive experience with RB26 GT-Rs. Would need to be able to do a compression test.The car is in Casula in South Sydney, so being close to there would be a bonus. I've had a search on this and other forums. A few years ago someone mention Brad at Autosports (RISKING was/is his name on this forum apparently), is he still around and would he be a good choice? Thanks heaps in advance for your help, it's greatly appreciated .

Cool, thanks for the advice everybody - gave me the confidence to buy a non V-Spec car and not worry about missing out :). I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I've had an offer accepted on a car subject to it passing an inspection, so exciting times!

Heya guys, thanks for the warm welcome ! If people would be interested I could do a build thread for the GT-R. Sure, here are some photos of my (soon to be sold ) beastie: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/gallery/album/5976-magzilla/ I tried uploading images to this reply but it said "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community."